donkeypunch

In doing research on this swap I found so many conflicting reports on what parts I needed to use. The parts I used were from a 94 GSR, complete front and rear swap. I recently completed the process and here is what is "fact".

1. You do not have to use the proportioning valve labeled "4040".
2. You do not need to replace the booster and the master cylinder.

Now, I did just the brake swap first because I ran out of time to do the master cylinder and booster. Below are the comparison before and after the swap:

First thing I noticed is that the pedal was real spongy, it would still lock the wheels but you had to put forth quite a bit of effort. The lock-up is pretty evenly biased, the fronts lock first, just like factory. Much more stopping power than stock.

I finished the master and booster last night, all I can say is, the steering wheel hurts when you hit it with your chest. Pedal is much more sensitive to touch, alot easier to modulate. Lock-up is perfect, even under hard braking at around 70, still very controlled.
If you have any questions about this, please feel free to ask. It is frustrating trying to decifer all the info out there. There is so much wrong floating around.

Good Luck,
punch

tonyxcom

You dont have to change it, but even according to you, the results are more desireable.
So which is it? Need it? or Dont need it? What have you cleared up that wasn't already known?

donkeypunch

You answered your own questions with your first statement. "You dont have to change it, but even according to you, the results are more desireable."
Alot of the documentation I had read said you "MUST" replace the porportioning valve or the rears will lock up first. Also, it said the 13/16th master cylinder wouldn't have enough volume to supply the additional fluid to the calipers. All I did was add clarity, from first hand exprience.

Let me put it this way, it is like a windshield in a car, you dont "NEED" it, but it makes the driving exprience much more enjoyable.

punch

tonyxcom

so.....What have you cleared up that wasn't already known?

owen_the_soyboy

give the guy a break, are you just bustin' his ***** or what? some people say the m/c and booster MUST be swapped in, but that is false. this is what he cleared up. the m/c and booster are optional upgrades, and wise ones at that.
nice post

tonyxcom

i guess my point is that I have never read or never been told that you HAVE to swap prop valves and mc/bb. It has always been an optional thing, but highly recommended.

so that is my point, he has proved everything I have always read about brake swaps, so what is new? not trying to bust anyones *****.