Jimi Hondrix

1997 Civic EX coupe D16Y8 stock, Automatic transmission. 155k miles, No CEL's. No prior service records/history
Puchased used a year ago @ 145k mileage.

Within the past year I have replaced all motor mounts (due to wear/tear) with Anchor brand aftermarket mounts. I knew/know OEM is ideally the way to go but, didn't want to invest $400 to $500 on an 18 year old $1600 car. I am also aware that the driver's side upper mount OEM is lquid filled suspension mount and aftermarkets are solid rubber.

I read a lot of info beforehand and some info recomended installing them in a specific sequence with bolts loose at first, then put in drive and reverse a few times to allow for settling into a neatral position , then tighten all bolts.
I did sequence and neutralize all of them but,ended up with vibration felt through the steering wheel and cabin. I expected a vibration (NVH) increase when I installed them but, thought by now it would have decreased some and it hasn't so, I am wondering if any other Anchor brand users are experiencing
the same thing?

If it's not the mounts that are causing the vibrations is it possible the valves might be the cause? I adjusted them six months ago after a head gasket and TB kit replacement. For the valves adustment I followed the FSM, used angled feeler gauges and set intake at .008 (FSM range between .007 and .009) and exhaust at .010 (FSM range between .009 and .011). I checked each one twice rotating the crank in between. For the intake I'd dragged the .008 gauge, couldn't insert a .009, and a .007 wouldn't drag at all. Exhaust I'd dragged the .010, the .011 wouldn't fit and the .009 wouldn't drag at all.

Engine seems to run fine at idle and under load, no loss of power, mechanical and ignition timing are spot-on. Compression is at or near 190 psi (engine warm) for each cylinder. I've noticed that idle lowers and vibrations increase when brake pedal is engaged while in drive (stop lights) but, I assume this is normal. Also, idle lowers and vibrations increase when electrical loads increase ex: rolling power windows up/down, a/c compressor engaged, first few seconds when winshield wipers are engaged. All comments, suggestions welcomed

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

grab the motor, car off, and attempt to move it. what happens? have a buddy sit in the car and shift into drive and reverse, foot on brake. what happens?

Jimi Hondrix

The function of the mounts is not the problem.. they are still all intact and functionioning properly. Here's someone else's related internet post that I copied and pasted below:

" I want to be clear that aftermarket mounts (Anchor brand specifically) are *NOT* the same as OEM mounts. This doesn't apply just to Acura/Honda. You can't rely on duro spec (this is an asinine thing to say anyway - I guarantee you'll never find a duro spec for an OEM mount).
There's a reason the stock mounts on these newer cars are expensive. They're pretty advanced (for lack of a better word) compared to an aftermarket motor mount. Better rubber, better fluid, etc etc. which all lead to a decrease in NVH. Good rubber is not cheap. Does honda inflate the cost of these parts? No doubt. But I will tell you that it's almost impossible to get the same QUALITY of mounts except through the OEM's. sometimes you can, especially on older cars that don't use hydraulic or solenoid activated mounts or cars that aren't designed to have super low levels of NVH. In almost 100% of cases you WILL get substantial increase in NVH when switching to an aftermarket mount aftermarket mount.

I work in the automotive aftermarket field and work closely with many suppliers. I can absolutely without a doubt tell you that aftermarket mounts are not in the same realm of sophistication as the OEM mounts, specifically on the nicer Acuras and other imports.
Anchor mounts with the OEM honda number stamped in doesn't mean anything. Lots of aftermarket suppliers do this. It references what OEM supplier they're making the part to cross reference to. I'm sure it also helps sales by indirectly making consumers think they're getting an OEM or OEM quality mount OEM quality mount but, I can assure you they're not the same.

Hold a new OEM mount up OEM mount up to a new aftermarket mount. You'll see that the aftermarket mount has a different texture to the rubber. More casting/mold "flash". the rubber will also generally be painted glossy black. Side by side you can usually see the differences. Inside the mount is what matters most. There's a reason why our front and rear mounts especially are pricey. They're pretty sophisticated with a high content of quality materials and engineering.

With that said, as long as you don't race your car or NEED stiffer mounts, go with OEM at least for the front and rear mounts. The left and right side mounts you can cheap out on (Anchor) without increasing NVH levels much. DON'T CHEAP OUT ON THE FRONT OR REAR MOUNTS on your Acura unless you want to increase NVH! (Steering wheel shake at idle etc). I don't know about you guys but I bought my car to be smooth, quiet and comfortable. If you bought yours for the same reason, follow my advice. If you race your car or have a need to have your engine stiff, by all means buy Anchor brand etc. many times they come with a LLW!"

tony_2018

If it wasn't purchased from an oem dealer WITH an oem parts bag and part number tag (red on white label) than its not oem. I understand that the car wasn't worth much and some decide not to spend much but if you shop right you'll find oem parts priced decent, not to mention bundle the purchases.

Jimi Hondrix

I don't plan to change the Anchors out for OEM. Just wondering if any that have used Anchor brand is experiencing the same increased vibration. If, I do at some point go OEM I'm pretty sure the transmission (lower firewall area) and left upper (liquid filled) mount replacement only would decrease the vibrations significantly.

hondur

iTrader: (1)

I use anchor mounts sometimes, i don't think they're bad. They're obviously not going to be as good as hasport or OEM, but i've never had that shaking problem people are talking about.

Jimi Hondrix

Ever do a complete (all) mounts replacement with Anchor or just individuals as needed?

hondur

iTrader: (1)

I've never swapped them all out with anchor units, I don't think I've ever had to replace more than two.