dear God...Why!?!?!?
#101
Re: (Jackson)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jackson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The itr is thicker than the gsr. I dont know the difference, if any, between the gsr and eg. The itr is like the ctr. They are twice as thick all around opposed to the stock non-R ones.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wonder, since the teg and 5th gen civic chassis are the same, if you could swap the itr subframe into a 5th gen civic...
The itr is thicker than the gsr. I dont know the difference, if any, between the gsr and eg. The itr is like the ctr. They are twice as thick all around opposed to the stock non-R ones.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wonder, since the teg and 5th gen civic chassis are the same, if you could swap the itr subframe into a 5th gen civic...
#102
Re: (Draco)
My two cents on this problem
I would re-weld your subframe and make a custom support like the comptech over top.
The is no difference if you weld it or replace it, welding does not ruin the integrity or the car, get someone who knows how to weld properly and your be fine.
The only difference is the computer welds from factory are better then the do it yourself, So remember if you take out your subframe and replace it with another one, you now weakened the welds holding the subframe to the car, it will still work amazing just not as strong as factory.
I personally think the reason the itr anti-sway bar is ripping subframes is because they are not ment to work with any control arms but the one they are ment to come with, I think it's in the way the bar sits with the conventional control arms. Get a type R.
I would re-weld your subframe and make a custom support like the comptech over top.
The is no difference if you weld it or replace it, welding does not ruin the integrity or the car, get someone who knows how to weld properly and your be fine.
The only difference is the computer welds from factory are better then the do it yourself, So remember if you take out your subframe and replace it with another one, you now weakened the welds holding the subframe to the car, it will still work amazing just not as strong as factory.
I personally think the reason the itr anti-sway bar is ripping subframes is because they are not ment to work with any control arms but the one they are ment to come with, I think it's in the way the bar sits with the conventional control arms. Get a type R.
#104
Re: (EK4civichatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EK4civichatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Will SRR lower control arms aid in preventing this???</TD></TR></TABLE>
No.
No.
#105
Re: (Fowler)
im still confused excuse my noobness, is it the tie-bar that is causing this by holding it together to tightly and stress tears it off, or is it the sway bar that is tearing it off...this has me sketchy on puttin on my skunk2 lower tie bar
#106
Re: (dash0n)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dash0n »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im still confused excuse my noobness, is it the tie-bar that is causing this by holding it together to tightly and stress tears it off, or is it the sway bar that is tearing it off...this has me sketchy on puttin on my skunk2 lower tie bar</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was just going to post the same question. Does anyone think it's a combo of a rear lower bar stiffening up the rear subframe combined with the sway bar? If you think about it the subframe has a lot of flex in it. The tie bar stiffens it, so something has to give when you add the stress of a sway bar. Thoughts?
Steve
I was just going to post the same question. Does anyone think it's a combo of a rear lower bar stiffening up the rear subframe combined with the sway bar? If you think about it the subframe has a lot of flex in it. The tie bar stiffens it, so something has to give when you add the stress of a sway bar. Thoughts?
Steve
#107
Re: (dash0n)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dash0n »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im still confused excuse my noobness, is it the tie-bar that is causing this by holding it together to tightly and stress tears it off, or is it the sway bar that is tearing it off...this has me sketchy on puttin on my skunk2 lower tie bar</TD></TR></TABLE>It tore before he had the comptech swaybar combo.
#109
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,261
Likes: 0
From: Hye market on Glenoaks Blvd, u.s.a
Re: (lsvtec hatch05)
yea it was the sway bar w/o the beaks kit that tore it in the first place.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsvtec hatch05 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that ****** sucks man. does that **** cost an arm and a leg to get it fixed?</TD></TR></TABLE>
so far i've been quoted 750.00 at a very good body shop, so i'm guessing somewhere in that ballpark.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsvtec hatch05 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that ****** sucks man. does that **** cost an arm and a leg to get it fixed?</TD></TR></TABLE>
so far i've been quoted 750.00 at a very good body shop, so i'm guessing somewhere in that ballpark.
#110
Re: (mintgecko)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mintgecko »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My two cents on this problem
The is no difference if you weld it or replace it, welding does not ruin the integrity or the car, get someone who knows how to weld properly and your be fine.
The only difference is the computer welds from factory are better then the do it yourself, So remember if you take out your subframe and replace it with another one, you now weakened the welds holding the subframe to the car, it will still work amazing just not as strong as factory.
I personally think the reason the itr anti-sway bar is ripping subframes is because they are not ment to work with any control arms but the one they are ment to come with, I think it's in the way the bar sits with the conventional control arms. Get a type R.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think you're wrong. I replaced mine with the stock civic type r one which is a lot thicker and stronger than the stock one. Which what I would recommend anyone doing that has a rear swaybar rip out on their stock subframe. If you take it to someone that knows what they are doing, it will be stronger than factory. The guy who did mine even stitch welded some of the seams on the subframe. There is no difference between civic type r and dx lcas. I paid a total of $500 to have it all fixed.
The is no difference if you weld it or replace it, welding does not ruin the integrity or the car, get someone who knows how to weld properly and your be fine.
The only difference is the computer welds from factory are better then the do it yourself, So remember if you take out your subframe and replace it with another one, you now weakened the welds holding the subframe to the car, it will still work amazing just not as strong as factory.
I personally think the reason the itr anti-sway bar is ripping subframes is because they are not ment to work with any control arms but the one they are ment to come with, I think it's in the way the bar sits with the conventional control arms. Get a type R.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think you're wrong. I replaced mine with the stock civic type r one which is a lot thicker and stronger than the stock one. Which what I would recommend anyone doing that has a rear swaybar rip out on their stock subframe. If you take it to someone that knows what they are doing, it will be stronger than factory. The guy who did mine even stitch welded some of the seams on the subframe. There is no difference between civic type r and dx lcas. I paid a total of $500 to have it all fixed.
#112
Re: (mintgecko)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mintgecko »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is a difference between integra type r and dx, the type r is a bucket style control arms.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The original poster has an ek, I have an ek. Civic type r control arms are the same as dx. No one on here is talking about their eg subframe ripping. This is an ek topic.
The original poster has an ek, I have an ek. Civic type r control arms are the same as dx. No one on here is talking about their eg subframe ripping. This is an ek topic.
#113
Re: (dash0n)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dash0n »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im still confused excuse my noobness, is it the tie-bar that is causing this by holding it together to tightly and stress tears it off, or is it the sway bar that is tearing it off...this has me sketchy on puttin on my skunk2 lower tie bar</TD></TR></TABLE>
tie bars dont cause it to tear out, sway bars do though.
tie bars dont cause it to tear out, sway bars do though.
#114
Re: (JUN EK9)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JUN EK9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
tie bars dont cause it to tear out, sway bars do though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
so i guess its jsut best to stick to say a...si sway bar? help reduce roll yet not strong enough to put to much stress on the subframe along with a tie bar?
tie bars dont cause it to tear out, sway bars do though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
so i guess its jsut best to stick to say a...si sway bar? help reduce roll yet not strong enough to put to much stress on the subframe along with a tie bar?
#116
Re: (JUN EK9)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JUN EK9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tie bars dont cause it to tear out, sway bars do though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
are you sure about that? couldn't it be a combo of the tie bar plus a high rate sway bar that causes (or increases the chances of) cracking? Has anyone run an ITR bar on an EK w/o a rear tie bar? If so did it ever crack? From a stress analysis standpoint it would make sense that limiting the motion of the subframe (by use of a tie bar) causes more stress to be focused around the swaybar mount point.
Just some food for thought. . . .
Steve
are you sure about that? couldn't it be a combo of the tie bar plus a high rate sway bar that causes (or increases the chances of) cracking? Has anyone run an ITR bar on an EK w/o a rear tie bar? If so did it ever crack? From a stress analysis standpoint it would make sense that limiting the motion of the subframe (by use of a tie bar) causes more stress to be focused around the swaybar mount point.
Just some food for thought. . . .
Steve
#117
Re: (nonsense)
Yeah, I did. It never cracked.
The tie bar does nothing to prevent the sway bar from ripping out the subframe. This happens because of two things. The springs are too soft so the bar flexes, putting stress on the subframe. And because where the bar mounts, it's as thick as paper.
And the only case that I've ever seen where it ripped a chunk out was on Jackson's car. And he had a tie bar.
The tie bar does nothing to prevent the sway bar from ripping out the subframe. This happens because of two things. The springs are too soft so the bar flexes, putting stress on the subframe. And because where the bar mounts, it's as thick as paper.
And the only case that I've ever seen where it ripped a chunk out was on Jackson's car. And he had a tie bar.
#118
Re: (mintgecko)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mintgecko »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Then I guess it just sucks to have an ek.
I though this problem was the eg cause i have it with type r rlca's and never had a problem.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
LCAs have nothing to do with it. It's the fact that the subframe is super weak. Run a big sway bar (22 and up) without a reinforcement kit for a while.. put some track time on it and come back and tell us how your ITR LCAs helped you.
I though this problem was the eg cause i have it with type r rlca's and never had a problem.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
LCAs have nothing to do with it. It's the fact that the subframe is super weak. Run a big sway bar (22 and up) without a reinforcement kit for a while.. put some track time on it and come back and tell us how your ITR LCAs helped you.
#119
Hey all, I am new to this forum, though I've been at automotiveforums.com for a long time. I am curious. I was reading this thread, and all the people with the tear-outs are EK civics. I have a 92 civic. I am curious if this problem is worse with 6th gens than with the 5th gen civics, or if it's the same. I was looking into a rear sway-bar, nothing huge like 23mm, I know that would screw up the sub-frame. Just a decent sized one since the car comes with none. I mean, the small 17-20mm is fine for me. I have seen front ones listed at 22-25mm, correct? Since my car's chassis is a DX, and came with no front sway bar, do I risk damage putting that on? I was thinking about getting a beaks kit just to be safe. After reading all this though, I am a little hesitent to put any of it on. I can live without it all, and don't wanna damage the sub-frame. From what I gather here, the ST sway will damage the subframe? Or am I reading this wrong. Sorry to bug you all, but this is much more informative than over at the other forum, lol, and I don't wanna damage my sub-frame. I don't do any serious racing or auto-cross, so I am not goning to have stress on the sub-frame from doing that.
#121
Re: (mintgecko)
Your bar is attached to your lca. You lca is attached to your shocks.
When the shocks compress, the lca is moved upwards. In turn, the bar, which is attached to the lca moves. Therefore there is stress applied to the subframe. If you have stiff springs, there won't be to much movement. If you have soft springs, then it will flex a lot which puts a lot more stress on the subframe.
What are you talking about? "There is no such thing as a sway bar"
That makes no sense.
When the shocks compress, the lca is moved upwards. In turn, the bar, which is attached to the lca moves. Therefore there is stress applied to the subframe. If you have stiff springs, there won't be to much movement. If you have soft springs, then it will flex a lot which puts a lot more stress on the subframe.
What are you talking about? "There is no such thing as a sway bar"
That makes no sense.
#123
Re: (mintgecko)
You obviously know what I mean when I say sway bar.
And yeah, stiff and soft springs do make a difference. Go make a post in the RR/Autocross forum and tell me how it goes.
And yeah, stiff and soft springs do make a difference. Go make a post in the RR/Autocross forum and tell me how it goes.
#124
Re: (mintgecko)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mintgecko »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Then I guess it just sucks to have an ek.
I though this problem was the eg cause i have it with type r rlca's and never had a problem.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you track your car? Have you ever put your chassis under a lot of stress? EG subframes are not invincible either.
I though this problem was the eg cause i have it with type r rlca's and never had a problem.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you track your car? Have you ever put your chassis under a lot of stress? EG subframes are not invincible either.