D16Z6 - what will last longer, piston rings or valve seals?
12-17-2005, 09:40 PM
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D16Z6 - what will last longer, piston rings or valve seals?
D16Z6 - what will last longer either regular driving or under boost, rings or valve seals?
I only ask this because I thought perhaps I had bad rings, but the compression was seemed awesome clear across the board for not knowing the milage of this motor: 180, 180, 185, 180. So, would it be valve seals or rings, or both? Because I know I'm getting some blowby, the stench of burning oil when I am at idle, but not usually when I am just normal driving, and I know there's oil out the valve cover goin' toward the catch can...
I am also having some issues when I leave from a stop, a little buckin' then smoothes out after I drive and get my rpms up. I originally thought it was ignition issues, but I've changed everything having to do with ignition, such as dizzy cap, rotor, plugs, wires, whole 'nother dizzy, grounds, EACV, and ELD.
I am assuming bad valve guide seals. Anyone have any suggestions?
I only ask this because I thought perhaps I had bad rings, but the compression was seemed awesome clear across the board for not knowing the milage of this motor: 180, 180, 185, 180. So, would it be valve seals or rings, or both? Because I know I'm getting some blowby, the stench of burning oil when I am at idle, but not usually when I am just normal driving, and I know there's oil out the valve cover goin' toward the catch can...
I am also having some issues when I leave from a stop, a little buckin' then smoothes out after I drive and get my rpms up. I originally thought it was ignition issues, but I've changed everything having to do with ignition, such as dizzy cap, rotor, plugs, wires, whole 'nother dizzy, grounds, EACV, and ELD.
I am assuming bad valve guide seals. Anyone have any suggestions?
12-17-2005, 10:24 PM
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most likey the valve seals very common
best way to tell is leak down tester
i got one and it works awesome, u'll hear where all the compression is going etc exhuast, out the intake, v/c oil cap pcv dip stick
best way to tell is leak down tester
i got one and it works awesome, u'll hear where all the compression is going etc exhuast, out the intake, v/c oil cap pcv dip stick
12-18-2005, 10:28 AM
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Re: (Average Al)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Average Al »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">most likey the valve seals very common
</TD></TR></TABLE>
So should I swap heads and hope that fixes the issue? (I have a low mileage one right here I could swap over and use).
And would that also explain the way it runs?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
So should I swap heads and hope that fixes the issue? (I have a low mileage one right here I could swap over and use).
And would that also explain the way it runs?
12-18-2005, 10:42 AM
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Re: (BoostdRex)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostdRex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So should I swap heads and hope that fixes the issue? (I have a low mileage one right here I could swap over and use).
And would that also explain the way it runs?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Bad valve seals would usually lead to burning oil. Burning oil would cause greyish or blueish smoke from the tailpipe, usually most noticable on cold starts or WOT runs. The smell of burning oil is probably your valvecover leaking onto the exhaust manifold or some other hot surface, when you're driving the moving air whisks the smell away.
Your running problem sounds like an air/fuel metering problem, or possibly a vacuum leak somewhere. I'd do a LOT more diagnostic work before just replacing the head and hoping for the best. It'd be a bitch to do a headswap and still have the same problem when you're done.
And would that also explain the way it runs?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Bad valve seals would usually lead to burning oil. Burning oil would cause greyish or blueish smoke from the tailpipe, usually most noticable on cold starts or WOT runs. The smell of burning oil is probably your valvecover leaking onto the exhaust manifold or some other hot surface, when you're driving the moving air whisks the smell away.
Your running problem sounds like an air/fuel metering problem, or possibly a vacuum leak somewhere. I'd do a LOT more diagnostic work before just replacing the head and hoping for the best. It'd be a bitch to do a headswap and still have the same problem when you're done.
12-18-2005, 11:07 AM
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Re: (anony95ex)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by anony95ex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The smell of burning oil is probably your valvecover leaking onto the exhaust manifold or some other hot surface, when you're driving the moving air whisks the smell away.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The stench I smell is from the exhaust, and it's bluish in color, but usually more at idle. On wide open runs that is when it's not quite as apparent, same with it being cold...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by anony95ex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Your running problem sounds like an air/fuel metering problem, or possibly a vacuum leak somewhere. I'd do a LOT more diagnostic work before just replacing the head and hoping for the best. It'd be a bitch to do a headswap and still have the same problem when you're done.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The head swap takes me like an hour depending on how cold it is outside. LOL
It's just getting the proper timing set, etc that takes the most time for me...
The smell of burning oil is probably your valvecover leaking onto the exhaust manifold or some other hot surface, when you're driving the moving air whisks the smell away.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The stench I smell is from the exhaust, and it's bluish in color, but usually more at idle. On wide open runs that is when it's not quite as apparent, same with it being cold...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by anony95ex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Your running problem sounds like an air/fuel metering problem, or possibly a vacuum leak somewhere. I'd do a LOT more diagnostic work before just replacing the head and hoping for the best. It'd be a bitch to do a headswap and still have the same problem when you're done.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The head swap takes me like an hour depending on how cold it is outside. LOL
It's just getting the proper timing set, etc that takes the most time for me...
12-19-2005, 07:58 PM
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Re: (elf_vang)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elf_vang »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is your car boosted??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes.
Yes.
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12-20-2005, 04:56 AM
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Re: (PurEvl)
If you try and reseal half of the engine you'll almost always find that the other half takes a **** shortly after your repairs.
My advice?
Swap in the other engine, and then take your time to rebuild the current block for boost with forged rods and pistons, then have the head redone at a good machine shop. Usually they'll resurface the head, pressure test it, do a complete valve job and probably even replace the exhaust valve guides and maybe even the intake guides.
Add all the new seals and I'd say it'd be ready for more boost provided you've got a good engine management set-up.
My advice?
Swap in the other engine, and then take your time to rebuild the current block for boost with forged rods and pistons, then have the head redone at a good machine shop. Usually they'll resurface the head, pressure test it, do a complete valve job and probably even replace the exhaust valve guides and maybe even the intake guides.
Add all the new seals and I'd say it'd be ready for more boost provided you've got a good engine management set-up.
12-21-2005, 05:11 PM
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Re: (B18C5-EH2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you try and reseal half of the engine you'll almost always find that the other half takes a **** shortly after your repairs.
My advice?
Swap in the other engine, and then take your time to rebuild the current block for boost with forged rods and pistons, then have the head redone at a good machine shop. Usually they'll resurface the head, pressure test it, do a complete valve job and probably even replace the exhaust valve guides and maybe even the intake guides.
Add all the new seals and I'd say it'd be ready for more boost provided you've got a good engine management set-up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just have a spare head here, not a complete motor... Otherwise I'd definitely do as you're suggesting!
That is what I am doing here with a guy's turbo'd D16Z6 that was in another CR-X sittin at my place. We had planned to drop in a "spare" (D16Y5 shortblock with the Z6 head) until the wrong head bolts were used (Z6 head bolts, that were too long) and it busted out the side of the Y5 block, so we're gonna take time building the Z6 block and try to figure out what to do in the meantime so that he has something to drive. I am thinkin' of using the Z6 head on a D15 block that I am pickin' up for just a temporary engine (mini-me the D15)).
Anyway, back to MY car: I use Crome for standalone fuel management on a chipped P28 with 450cc DSM injectors, and set at 12psi on stock internals.
My advice?
Swap in the other engine, and then take your time to rebuild the current block for boost with forged rods and pistons, then have the head redone at a good machine shop. Usually they'll resurface the head, pressure test it, do a complete valve job and probably even replace the exhaust valve guides and maybe even the intake guides.
Add all the new seals and I'd say it'd be ready for more boost provided you've got a good engine management set-up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just have a spare head here, not a complete motor... Otherwise I'd definitely do as you're suggesting!
That is what I am doing here with a guy's turbo'd D16Z6 that was in another CR-X sittin at my place. We had planned to drop in a "spare" (D16Y5 shortblock with the Z6 head) until the wrong head bolts were used (Z6 head bolts, that were too long) and it busted out the side of the Y5 block, so we're gonna take time building the Z6 block and try to figure out what to do in the meantime so that he has something to drive. I am thinkin' of using the Z6 head on a D15 block that I am pickin' up for just a temporary engine (mini-me the D15)).
Anyway, back to MY car: I use Crome for standalone fuel management on a chipped P28 with 450cc DSM injectors, and set at 12psi on stock internals.
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