ibanender

Nearly 2 years ago I did a swap in my 90 CRX HF to a D16Z6 (out of a 94 Del Sol Si). After about 4 months, I started getting an air/fuel code every once in a while. If I shut the car off and started it again the code was gone. Over the next years span, I progessively got the code more frequently up until it was happening upwards of 4-6 times a day and started idling funny. I replaced the O2 sensor (under warranty, put a new one in at the time of swap) and it did not help. Next up was the IACV. I replaced it and the code doesnt come up anymore, but it still idles funny. I checked for vacuum leaks and found none so I tried a new MAP sensor, which did nothing. I found a way to test the TPS and it checked out fine. What other options do I have left?

Depending on weather and engine temperature, it idles differently. If the motor is cold and the temperature is sub 60, it will idle around 2200. If the motor is cold and the temperature is above 60 it may idle anywhere from 2500 to 4000 (seems to idle higher at higher temperatures). After the motor is warm, it surges from 1200 to 2200 regardless of air temperature and may randomly idle at 3000-4000 when air temperature is over 80. Regardless of if the motor is warm or cold or the air is warm or cold, the accelerator is VERY jumpy. If I push the pedal just a hair the car gets jerky and its jerky when I let off the throttle, but acclerates normal through the rest of the throttle. Even with a load on the motor, like driving down the road with foot off the accelerator and motor around 2000 RPM or less, you can feel the car pull or lag like I'm hitting the gas or letting off the gas.

Any ideas at all? I can take a video of how it acts if necessary.

cranny

FITV maybe. EGR. purge solenoid. kind of sounds like exhaust valves too tight symptoms , but wouldnt make it idle high like that. could be plain and simple a vacuum leak.

ek_kid

start at the basics do you have good fuel pressure, what do the spark plugs look like? check injectors for pulse with and what code # was it? spray some carb clean around the throttle body and intake manifold to check for leaks and clean the throttle body. if well let me know what you have try ed and maybe i can think of some more things but that is a good starting point.

ek_kid

dose the d16 have egr? cant remember lol well if so that would be a good thing to check to just like cranny said.

schardbody

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cranny &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FITV maybe. EGR. purge solenoid. kind of sounds like exhaust valves too tight symptoms , but wouldnt make it idle high like that. could be plain and simple a vacuum leak.</TD></TR></TABLE>

first off, this is the 3rd thread tonight i seen you say "sounds like exhaust valve lash too tight"

secondly, z6 doesnt have an EGR valve.

THIRD, z6 doesnt have a FITV.

FOURTH, purge solenoid WONT cause a SINGLE PROBLEM WITH IDLE when warm. OR COLD FOR THAT MATTER.

there is just a little tech for you.


SOUNDS LIKE A BAD CHIP in the ECU to me. or completely wrong ecu.

ibanender

Well, I know the ECU is correct as it came out of the same car the motor did. However, the ECU is a modded automatic. Is it possible that there is a broken solder joint at the modification? It had crossed my mind that the ECU may have a problem when it was intermittent and gradually got worse.

schardbody

so is it chipped or just auto to manual converted???

if it is chipped i would say you have a bad chip/program, if not i would say next most possible thing would be the conversion harness from obd0 to obd1.

seeing as how its ambient temp related i would almost put money on it being the program.

ibanender

It is not chipped, just an auto to manual conversion. I have checked connections at the OBD1 adapter and everything looks good. I have relocated my ECU towards the center of the car (you'd have to see to understand why) and there is a bunch of wiring under the carpet so I can't rule anything out at this point.