D15Z1 Problems..... Help!!!
07-25-2007, 05:17 AM
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D15Z1 Problems..... Help!!! Where are the honda techs??
This is costing my tons.. so far I changed.. Fuel Pump.. Fuel Filter.. Spark Plugs.. The car RUNS PERFECT when Cold.. but once it heats up it starts to misfire.. It will make like a sputtering noise and idle low and sound like its running on like 3 cyls.. My last hope is its the main relay.. someone told me it controls the fuel injection.. could that be it?? I just wanna know wtf is wrong with it..
Modified by 2Fast4Everyone at 6:31 AM 7/25/2007
Modified by 2Fast4Everyone at 6:31 AM 7/25/2007
07-25-2007, 08:42 AM
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Re: (2Fast4Everyone)
Those things you've changed are regular maintenance items. You shouldn't be pissed about the cost because that is the normal cost of maintaining the vehicle. You'll get your money back in mpg.
If you want to save money and get right to the problem, you DIAGNOSE it. You don't just start throwing parts at it. You probably would have saved money taking it right to the mechanic.
Since you're beyond that point, why not just continue replacing maintenance parts?
If it's a misfire I would have started with the ignition system, not the fuel system. Check the ignition rotor, distributer cap, and plug wires.
If you want to save money and get right to the problem, you DIAGNOSE it. You don't just start throwing parts at it. You probably would have saved money taking it right to the mechanic.
Since you're beyond that point, why not just continue replacing maintenance parts?
If it's a misfire I would have started with the ignition system, not the fuel system. Check the ignition rotor, distributer cap, and plug wires.
07-25-2007, 10:01 AM
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Took it to the mechanic and he says he checked Rotor, Distrib and such.. But i got a code now.. Code 48... Could the LAF Sensor aka Oxygen sensor be causing the car to run like this???
07-25-2007, 11:14 AM
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Re: (2Fast4Everyone)
I have the same old ****, they changed my Coolant temp sensor and that helped a bit but they also said that since our O2 is a 5 wire wideband its ******* it up. So if you really wanna spend 450 for a new o2 have fun but im gonna deal with the misfire till i get a new motor. try running Fuel injector cleaner and seafoam, helped me a bit
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08-06-2007, 09:36 PM
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Re: (bkmc24)
A functioning wide band 5 wire O2 sensor will fix it all. CEL code #48 was my problem not to long ago. I got another sensor and problem fixed. The hard part is finding one that works for an affordable price. $350 is not worth it for a brand new one. You can pickup another D series engine for that much. Good luck.
08-07-2007, 05:43 AM
#10
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i would rather spend $305 getting a part that i know will fix it rather than getting spending 2 weeks hunting for a sensor online that may or may not work.
08-07-2007, 08:54 AM
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Re: (2Fast4Everyone)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2Fast4Everyone »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Took it to the mechanic and he says he checked Rotor, Distrib and such.. But i got a code now.. Code 48... Could the LAF Sensor aka Oxygen sensor be causing the car to run like this???</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes it will.
but depending on how many miles you have on the car you may need a distributor as well. Even if your mechanic says it looks good. the bearing in the distributor goes bad around 90k-120k, it's a very common problem with hondas. Both of these things will cause what you describe.
the O2 sensor being bad, are you going through fuel faster than normal? that's a dead give away.
search for the NGK L1H1 wideband O2 sensor, there are a few palces on line that I found (when I was still running my VX) that had them fairly cheap.
yes it will.
but depending on how many miles you have on the car you may need a distributor as well. Even if your mechanic says it looks good. the bearing in the distributor goes bad around 90k-120k, it's a very common problem with hondas. Both of these things will cause what you describe.
the O2 sensor being bad, are you going through fuel faster than normal? that's a dead give away.
search for the NGK L1H1 wideband O2 sensor, there are a few palces on line that I found (when I was still running my VX) that had them fairly cheap.
08-07-2007, 09:11 AM
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Re: (Relic1)
+1 on this statement. My crx would not even idle and my o2 sensor was shot, well it was shot years ago 
Plus, a common symptom of misfire when hot, not cold, usually points to the ignition coil. That is if you are utilizing the highly precise shotgun method.
I also second the new engine. Those NTK wideband sensors are very old and they are becomming very hard and expensive to source. The world of oxygen sensors has now migrated to the cheaper Bosch unit, found under the hood of most VWs nowadays. basically, find a 140hp zc for $300 and be done with it.
my .02
Plus, a common symptom of misfire when hot, not cold, usually points to the ignition coil. That is if you are utilizing the highly precise shotgun method.I also second the new engine. Those NTK wideband sensors are very old and they are becomming very hard and expensive to source. The world of oxygen sensors has now migrated to the cheaper Bosch unit, found under the hood of most VWs nowadays. basically, find a 140hp zc for $300 and be done with it.
my .02
08-07-2007, 10:42 AM
#14
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Re: (mntuner2)
The wideband is expensive because all the tuners started using them as widebands with their UEGO kits. I bought one about 5 years ago for that purpose for less than $250. But I think it's only the non-CA VXs that use widebands.
I still have it incidentally. But I'm hanging onto it along with the PLX.
It makes sense that it's your O2 because your engine runs in open loop until it reaches operating temperature. Then it switches to O2 feedback.
I still have it incidentally. But I'm hanging onto it along with the PLX.
It makes sense that it's your O2 because your engine runs in open loop until it reaches operating temperature. Then it switches to O2 feedback.
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