97H22AEK

How to install Factory Honda cruise control (except "set/resume") switches. No need for a donor car steering wheel with switches.
Around 6 hours work and $250 in parts or so. Uses Salvage yard factory parts. Steering wheel includes air bag and is Very Expensive.
I just drilled (2) small holes in the rectangular knockouts in the dash right above the "coin Holder" for the Radio Shack momentary pushbutton switches. Works like a champ!!

97H22AEK

96-00 cruise control parts needed from donor EX or LX car

Brake / Gas pedals assembly complete with mounting bracket, springs, cruise arm and brake switch with mating plug & 6” of wire or so. (specify automatic or manual transmission for the correct brake pedal) New $62 + shipping Used $70-90
If you buy this stuff new you have to put all the pieces together with No Guide.

Cruise Control Computer unit with plug and mating connector (can be from auto or manual transmission, doesn’t matter) New $102 + shipping Used $30-50

Servo-Actuator Solenoid assy (under hood on inner fenderwell) complete with throttle cable un-cut, vacuum lines, Vacuum storage tank (on firewall), rubber grommet that seals cable to firewall, and plug with mating connector & 6” of wire or so. New $225 + shipping Used $50-75

Main Cruise Control Power Switch (on dash under driver’s side vent) Specify color needed either grey, brown, or black? New $42 + shipping Used $10-20

(2) RadioShack momentary on-off pushbutton switches. (1) red & (1) black.
Part number #275-011 (2) pack switches for $2.99

Manual Transmissions only; Cruise control Clutch Safety Switch with plug and mating connector and 6” of wire or so. You need the switch with the Smaller threads 10mm.
There are (2) switches on the clutch pedal and the Larger one 12mm is the Nuetral Safety switch so car doesn’t start in gear. You don’t need that one as you already have one. New $20 + shipping Used $10-15

All New Pricing from Majestic Honda in Rhode Island (Cheapest Honda parts I’ve found!!) are for reference and guide only for salvage / ebay parts.
Should be able to get everything from a salvage yard for $250-300 Total.
Try Honda Parts Connection (salvage) in Georgia.

97H22AEK

BROWN WIRE ON CCU TO BROWN WIRE ON ACTUATOR/SOLENOID SERVO
BROWN/WHITE WIRE ON CCU TO BROWN/ WHITE WIRE ON ACTUATOR/SOLENOID SERVO
BROWN/BLACK WIRE ON CCU TO BROWN /BLACK WIRE ON ACTUATOR/SOLENOID SERVO
BLACK WIRE ON ACTUATOR/SOLENOID SERVO TO MOUNTING BOLT (GROUND)
LIGHT GREEN/RED WIRE ON CCU TO ONE SPADE (SIDE) ON “SET” SWITCH
BLACK WIRE ON CCU TO MOUNTING STUD (GROUND)
LIGHT GREEN/BLACK WIRE ON CCU TO ONE SPADE (SIDE) ON “RESUME” SWITCH
BOTH OF THE OTHER SPADES (SIDES) ON THE SET & RESUME SWITCHES GET WIRED TOGETHER AND GO to #27 ACCESSORY FUSE UNDER DASH. (6TH FUSE FROM LEFT ON TOP ROW).
BLUE/WHITE WIRE ON CCU TO BLUE/WHITE WIRE ON BLUE 16-WIRE DASH INSTRUMENT PLUG (USED ON CARS W/ FACTORY TACHOMETER ONLY)
RED/BLUE WIRE ON CCU TO RED/BLUE WIRE ON GREEN 5-WIRE DASH INSTRUMENT PLUG
PINK WIRE ON CCU NOT NEEDED OR USED
GREEN/WHITE WIRE ON CCU NOT USED
GREY WIRE ON CCU TO LARGE SPADE (ONE SIDE) ON NEW BRAKE SWITCH.
MANUAL / STICK TRANSMISSION CONNECT A WIRE FROM THE OTHER LARGE SPADE ON NEW BRAKE SWITCH TO ONE SPADE (SIDE) ON NEW CLUTCH SWITCH. CONNECT A WIRE FROM OTHER SPADE ON NEW CLUTCH SWITCH TO LIGHT GREEN WIRE ON MAIN POWER SWITCH FOR THE CRUISE CONTROL.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION CONNECT A WIRE FROM THE OTHER LARGE SPADE ON NEW BRAKE SWITCH TO LIGHT GREEN WIRE ON MAIN POWER SWITCH FOR THE CRUISE CONTROL.
LIGHT GREEN WIRE ON CCU TO LIGHT GREEN WIRE ON MAIN POWER SWITCH FOR CRUISE CONTROL
(THIS WIRE WILL BE ALREADY CONNECTED TO BRAKE/CLUTCH SWITCH, JUST JUMPER IN)
RED/BLACK WIRE ON MAIN POWER SWITCH TO #30 (7.5A) UNDER DASH FUSE
4TH FUSE FROM RIGHT ON TOP ROW (CHECK FOR POWER)
BLACK WIRE ON MAIN POWER SWITCH TO GROUND
BLACK/YELLOW WIRE ON MAIN POWER SWITCH TO #14 (7.5A) UNDER DASH FUSE
4TH FUSE FROM LEFT ON MIDDLE ROW (CHECK FOR POWER)
RED WIRE ON MAIN POWER SWITCH TO RED WIRE ON BLUE 13-WIRE DASH INSTRUMENT PLUG (JUMPER IN) OR ANY DASH LIGHT POWER WIRE.

DAP97SI

iTrader: (2)

are you trying to write a how-to or what?

97H22AEK

I don't know how to post the wiring diagram but if you need one send me a personal message and I will reply with a pdf of the drawing I made.

DAP97SI

iTrader: (2)

I have always wanted to do this to my car, but thought it was too expensive to do. Did you do this to your car already?

97H22AEK

Yes It's done and it works great. I would suggest trying to buy everything you need from the same salvage yard. I bought my parts from HondaPartsConnection
out of Georgia. They were great to work with and specialize in Honda's. If you've never did wiring b4 that's the easy part. I won't lie to you as the pedal assembly was a bit of a nightmare to install. You have to remove like (3) cotter keys on your existing pedal assy and they are difficult to get at, but doable if you persist. You also have to re-install them on the new pedals. Also, there are (3) springs which also are hard to get at but again it's doable. I don't have any pictures yet but I plan to take some this weekend. There is a wiring diagram for cruise in the Factory Honda Service manual but it's kind of hard to follow so I made my own which is much simpler. I'm taking it to work today to make a PDF file out of it so I can send to who wants it. The "set / resume" switches I used are Radio Shack pushbutton switches. You can buy them either in black or red for $2 each. I used (1) of each so i can remember which one is set and which one is resume. Cruise Steering wheel with switches also has Air Bag, VERY EXPENSIVE !!!!! Plus you have to unhook air bag and feed wires down thru the steering column which I didn't want to do. If your interested I'll help you just give me a couple of days to get more organized.

97H22AEK

Component Mounting Instructions
ACTUATOR/SOLENOID SERVO;
Mount on driver side inner fenderwell under hood. Use the (3) bolts supplied and they go into threaded holes already on your car in the inner fenderwell. Throttle Cable exits and points towards the motor of the car. Servo will only mount / fit one way.
Remove the plastic / rubber plug from the firewall (near existing throttle cable) and install the rubber grommet into the firewall hole (rubber grommet is on the actuator throttle cable). Route throttle cable thru the firewall and into the inside of the car. Cable should come thru firewall near and above the accelerator pedal. Attach cable to accelerator linkage (pushing down on gas pedal creates slack to attach). YOU MUST ATTACH THE SMALL SPRING SUPPLIED ONTO THE THROTTLE LINKAGE FOR SAFE OPERATION.

VACUUM CANNISTER;
You can mount this anywhere really, but it’s suppose to be on the drivers side firewall to the right of the brake master cylinder. If you have a bracket there just wire tie canister to the bracket. If not, use (2) self adhesive fasteners and stick them on the firewall. Route cable ties thru fasteners and tighten around canister.

CRUISE CONTROL UNIT (“CCU” COMPUTER);
Remove drivers side floor sill plate and kick panel. (the floor sill plate is the colored vinyl plastic piece that runs along the bottom of the door when door is opened by gas filler door and trunk latch releases on floor). Next remove the drivers side kick panel (colored plastic panel to the left of where your feet go). CCU unit mounts on an existing threaded stud underneath this panel. You might have a 2” thick piece of foam insulation glued on here. If you do, remove it and you will see the mounting stud. Throw away foam piece. Only (1) threaded nut holds the ccu onto the mounting stud. Use this for Ground wire as well.

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION CARS;
DON’T need the clutch safety switch.

MANUAL STICK TRANSMISSION CARS;
MUST use both clutch and brake safety switches.

BRAKE SAFETY SWITCH;
Laying on back on drivers side floor under dash, Unplug the existing plug from the existing brake light switch on the top of the brake pedal linkage. Loosen and remove locking nut on brake switch. Unscrew brake switch from linkage arm. Throw away old brake switch. Install New brake switch onto brake pedal arm (activation pin points down towards floor). Turn new switch in until plunger is fully depressed (touching the pad on the pedal arm).Now back off switch ¼ turn and tighten lock nut down. Be careful when installing new switch so that the wires on the new switch doesn’t get all tangled and caught up. Cut off existing brake plug connector from car wire harness. Strip the (2) wires as you need to attach these 2 existing wires to the 2 wires of the same colors on the new brake switch.


CLUTCH SAFETY SWITCH;
Find threaded hole on clutch arm linkage and install new clutch safety switch (activation pin points down towards floor). Turn switch into threaded hole making sure new wires don’t get all tangled up. Tighten until pin contacts arm, then tighten (1) more 360 degrees turn. Tighten down locknut. Connect wires as labeled on wiring diagram.

CRUISE MAIN POWER SWITCH;
Locate dash “knock-out” below the side window defroster vent in drivers side of dash. The knock-out is very close to the same size as the switch. Using a very small screwdriver, carefully pry out the plastic knockout from the dash. Insert wires thru hole in dash and push the power switch into dash until it clicks and locks. Wires per Diagram.

“SET” AND “RESUME” SWITCHES;
These (2) switches can be either located on the driver side dash or on the floor console. The floor console will be a little more work as you have to hide and run the wires back up to under the dash. The dash is much easier. Right above the storage compartment in the driver side dash are (3) knock-outs. (1) square one and (2) rectangular ones. We will use both rectangular ones to set apart a little space between the switches. Drill a 7/16” diameter hole thru the center of each knockout.Using a very small screwdriver, carefully pry out the two rectangular knockouts. Remove (1) locknut from each switch and insert wires and switch thru hole in knockout on the front side. Install locknut onto back of knockout/switches and tighten. Insert wires & switches with knockouts back into dash until they click and lock in. One switch is Red and the other is Black to set apart the “set” vs “resume”. The RED switch is SET and the BLACK switch is RESUME.

PEDALS & BRACKET ASSY
I forgot the hardest and most important part. The Pedals assembly!!!! When I first went to install cruise I had bought all the parts and figured out the wiring. In my haste I installed everything and wired everything up and was on the last step (hook up the cruise throttle cable to pedal) and I find out there’s nowhere to attach the cable!!!!! In Honda’s Infinite wisdom, they decided to change the pedal mounting Bracket assy and even the gas pedal arm. This is why you have to change out the gas pedal, brake/gas pedal Mounting bracket, and also get another special arm that’s just for cruise control cars. Now honda’s got 6 part numbers instead of 3. It surely must of cost them more money to make the parts different than keeping them the same? Also there could be mix-ups during assembly?
IMPORTANT: Take some pictures of the pedals and mounting bracket assembly when you get it for use as an assembly guide. Pay special attention to which side hex nuts are on, and how all (3) springs are attached. They will only go on the same way (top unhooks left, bttm unhooks right, which spring, etc…)
Removal, Start by taking brake pedal bolt and nut off. Unhook spring and Brake switch plug. Remove brake pedal and hardware. Make note of which side the nut is on. Remove cotter key, washer, & bushing from gas pedal. Unhook spring and remove gas pedal. (save yourself lots of headaches and use ALL NEW Cotter keys. They are a bitch to put back in & need to be perfectly straight) There are (4) hex nuts two on either side of the steering column near the floor and (1) bolt on top going to the underside of the metal dash that hold the mounting bracket in. Remove these. The 4 threaded rods that hold this in place are actually part of the Master Cylinder / Vacuum Booster. You need to carefully pull the master cylinder away from the firewall. (don’t unhook any lines though) The rods protrude into car & get in the way. Take a small piece of 2”x4” and wedge it in between the master cyl & firewall to hold it in place. Now there should be enough clearance ro remove the pedal mtg bracket from the car.
Install, Unfortunately you can’t install the bracket & pedals as an assembly as there’s not enough clearance for the pedal arms to go up over the steering column. Remove brake & gas pedals and also cruise arm bracket. Intall pedal mtg bracket into car. You might have to readjust the master cyl to get the (4) holes on the bracket to line up with threaded rods. You need a 13mm deep socket or an open end wrench if I remember right. Install brake pedal next. I decided to hang the brake spring on the mtg bracket b4 install. WRONG, (it won’t work that way as I never did get my brake spring hooked up). As far as I can tell, all this spring does is help the brake arm stay closed tight on the brake switch so your brake lights don’t come on? No spring & my lights work fine !!!!! Here’s my suggestion & I’m serious, hook the brake spring onto the brake arm hole and take a small piece of duct tape and tape the bottom portion of the arm & spring so that the spring points straight up towards the sky. After you get the pedal on, you should be able to hook up the spring with a needle nose. Pay attention to ALL the springs & how they go on (right or left) as it makes a difference in whether you can install them or not. Install gas pedal and cruise arm bracket. Make sure bushings & washers are in the right order. Bend cotter keys over. Install gas pedal springs.

WIRING; ( SEE WIRING DIAGRAM & INSTRUCTIONS)

Both the Blue & White wire and Red & blue wire from CCU will have to be spliced into the corresponding wires on the back of the dash plugs. The red wire from Main Power switch will also have to be spliced into a dash plug. Take a wire stripper and try to strip the wire in the middle. This will open up a small section of bare wire without cutting thru the wires. Or you can just cut them and splice the 3-wires together. Follow “Cruise Control Wiring” instructions and wiring diagram.

97H22AEK

Component locations and identification and wiring diagram

DAP97SI

iTrader: (2)

Nice, great information. I want to do this, but it will take me a long time to gather all the parts since I am doing a front end conversion and painting my car this summer.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Jesus H, those are expensive salvage parts.

My CC retrofit on a CDM 94 Hatchback cost maybe $50-$60 total. All parts from a pick'n'pull.

VERY good info, though. This needed to be posted. Well done.

BryanM.

iTrader: (1)

Good info. Wish I had CC.

selvan777

Hi 97H22AEK,

Thanks a bunch for taking the time to share all this, it's priceless! I'm about to take this on and was wondering if you'd like to change anything before I do?

I've saved this thread and both pdf files (cruiseA1 & 2) for off-line viewing.

Thanks.