fryman

I found out the P08 I bought is for a automatic(cel 19) and I heard that ecus can be converted to suite the transmission in the car.Does anyone have a link to a write up or can someone explain how to do this?Thanks.

PaulMc

iTrader: (1)

You should buy my chipped P28 ECU..has a skunk2 chip, rev limit is at 9800 RPM's, I have a VAFC II VTEC controler for sale as well if you'd like to adjust that

fryman

Thanks for the offer but the head code for my engine is P08 so I want to match the ecu to the head.And I have a VAFC 2.Thanks though.

B18C5-EH2

There are a few guys on this forum that have experience doing this - unfortunately I cannot recall a single one of them's screen names.

I know it can be done, but I don't like to post any info unless it's 100% concrete.

Have you tried a google search, or used the H-T search engine under recent and archived topics?

B18C5-EH2

Found this on a Hondaswap website.

I did not type this nor am I claiming credit - I'm simply copy/pasting what someone else typed up.

Basically even the person who typed this up said he got it from Hondata, so I suppose i'm borrowing borrowed info anyways...lol.

How to convert an automatic ECU to 5 speed specs

First, let's find out if we have an automatic, or a 5 speed ECU. If you don't want to plug it in and throw code 19 (automatic trans lockup solenoid) to find out it is an automatic ECU, then look at the code on the side. If the second to last number is a 5, then you have an automatic ECU (for OBD-1 USDM ECUs). If the 2nd to last # is anything but a five you have an ECU for a 5 speed. If you have a jdm obd-1 ecu, look at the last 3 digits: 900 or 901 will be an automatic. If you were unfortunate enough to get an automatic ECU, then read on and learn how to cure all your problems.

The following information was all obtained from Hondata.com and the picture was graciously borrowed from them as well.





For Jdm Pr3/Pw0 ECUs:
Move the jumper from R68 to R67 (both locations are to the left of the ROM)

For USDM OBD1 ECUs (p28):
Underneath the ROM there is a row of resistors labelled with RP__ . Remove RP17 and install a jumper across RP18.

For JDM OBD1 ECUs:
RP18 (in the same location as usdm) needs to be lowered in value from 2.4k to 1.4k ohms.

fryman

Sweet thanks .

Relic1

P08 = JDM/EDM ECU (which looks very different than that pic)

RP18 is on the back of the board, center right with the plugs facing up.
remove the resistor from that location and install a 1.4k (1k seems to work also)

edit - if you're anywhere near Tampa, look up John @ http://phearable.net

fryman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">P08 = JDM/EDM ECU (which looks very different than that pic)

RP18 is on the back of the board, center right with the plugs facing up.
remove the resistor from that location and install a 1.4k (1k seems to work also)

edit - if you're anywhere near Tampa, look up John @ http://phearable.net</TD></TR></TABLE>
Heh yea I opened it up and it looked completely different from the pic..I didn't wanna say anything though because the guys supposed to exchange the ecu for a manual tomorrow.But I think I found it(in case I do end up having to convert it),its the little rectangular resistor with 472 on it?

Where can these resistors be bought?

Relic1

that's the one.

a standard 1/8 watt radioshack resistor can be used if you curl the legs around the body and lay the resistor down on the board.
Buying one or even 10 of those parts would be 10x in shipping than the cost of the parts themselves. (newark or digikey)

obuhmyuh

i did this just the other day with my p28, it was pretty easy i just desoldered rp17 and rp18 and jumped rp18 with just a thin piece of wire. cleared that code 19 in 15 minutes.

fryman

Sounds good I'm gunna go for it .

Ok so I get a 1/8 watt resistor,unsolder the 472 resistor,solder in the 1/8 watt resistor where the 472 one is and that's it?

obuhmyuh

those are a lot of numbers that i know nothing about.

i just unsoldered the 2 things in the rp17 and 18 and soldered in a thin piece of wire into 18.

edit: maybe a p08 is different. pics couldnt hurt either since your gonna have it open anyway

fryman

Relic1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fryman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok so I get a 1/8 watt resistor,unsolder the 472 resistor,solder in the 1/8 watt resistor where the 472 one is and that's it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's it. (1/8 watt, 1k ohm resistor)

one thing that's always bugged me, every how to I've read says this... "lower the restance of RP18 from 2.4k to 1.4k ohms" but every JDM ECU I've seen has a 472 resistor in that location, which is a 4.7k ohm resistor. (4 7 + 2 zeros)

obuhmyuh: JDM ECUs are different. (as you can see)

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fryman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the offer but the head code for my engine is P08 so I want to match the ecu to the head.And I have a VAFC 2.Thanks though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

BTW I wanted to comment on this line here.

There is no importance of "matching numbers" on the cylinder head and ECU.

I mean I've got a P28 ECU running my Type R engine with a P73 head, but that doesn't take away from the fact that it runs well and makes good power. I'm sure you'd rather work with whatb you've got if you've already got the P08, but make no mistake - a P28 will do the same job.

I do apologize for posting the wrong ECU though - like I said I'm not familiar with rechipping/modding ECUs, but it looks like help came just in time.

obuhmyuh

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
obuhmyuh: JDM ECUs are different. (as you can see)</TD></TR></TABLE>

that looks a lot different. now i know, thanks.

fryman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
that's it. (1/8 watt, 1k ohm resistor)

one thing that's always bugged me, every how to I've read says this... "lower the restance of RP18 from 2.4k to 1.4k ohms" but every JDM ECU I've seen has a 472 resistor in that location, which is a 4.7k ohm resistor. (4 7 + 2 zeros)

obuhmyuh: JDM ECUs are different. (as you can see)</TD></TR></TABLE>
1K ohm..aw man I went and got a 470 ohm .I'm not very experienced with this resistors.Looks like another trip to radio shack lol.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

BTW I wanted to comment on this line here.

There is no importance of "matching numbers" on the cylinder head and ECU.

I mean I've got a P28 ECU running my Type R engine with a P73 head, but that doesn't take away from the fact that it runs well and makes good power. I'm sure you'd rather work with whatb you've got if you've already got the P08, but make no mistake - a P28 will do the same job.

I do apologize for posting the wrong ECU though - like I said I'm not familiar with rechipping/modding ECUs, but it looks like help came just in time.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well yea you can run all kinds of ecus on all kinds of engines but as I've been told jdm ecus have more aggressive timing and so on so by running my engine on a usdm ecu I would have less horsepower than with a jdm ecu.I could be wrong but as far as I know stock sohc usdm vtec engines are around 108hp and stock sohc vtec jdm engines are around 130hp.Correct me if I'm wrong.

fryman

It worked!!!Hahaha!The codes gone!Thanks everyone

fryman

Relic1

looks good to me, not bad for a first time soldering.
congrats.