P28 Ecu or VAFC II
#1
P28 Ecu or VAFC II
what is the best thing to add on a 1.6 sohc vtec engine? a P28 ecu or the VAFC II?
by the way the car is running with the stock ecu p2p obd2 (it was automatic) and now its manual and I didnt change the ecu to a manual ecu.
edited: the car has h/i/e
by the way the car is running with the stock ecu p2p obd2 (it was automatic) and now its manual and I didnt change the ecu to a manual ecu.
edited: the car has h/i/e
#2
Re: P28 Ecu or VAFC II (gray_civic_coupe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gray_civic_coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is the best thing to add on a 1.6 sohc vtec engine? a P28 ecu or the VAFC II?
by the way the car is running with the stock ecu p2p obd2 (it was automatic) and now its manual and I didnt change the ecu to a manual ecu.</TD></TR></TABLE>
an extra cam
j/k... get rid of the auto ecu... u need a p28 w/ a good program
by the way the car is running with the stock ecu p2p obd2 (it was automatic) and now its manual and I didnt change the ecu to a manual ecu.</TD></TR></TABLE>
an extra cam
j/k... get rid of the auto ecu... u need a p28 w/ a good program
#3
Re: P28 Ecu or VAFC II (jmcmil6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jmcmil6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
an extra cam
j/k... get rid of the auto ecu... u need a p28 w/ a good program</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hahaha I really need an extra cam, DOHC ENGINE
what would the p28 do?
as i know the redline will be at 8,200 or 8,500 rpm
what else?
an extra cam
j/k... get rid of the auto ecu... u need a p28 w/ a good program</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hahaha I really need an extra cam, DOHC ENGINE
what would the p28 do?
as i know the redline will be at 8,200 or 8,500 rpm
what else?
#6
Re: (Relic1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gray_civic_coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
as i know the redline will be at 8,200 or 8,500 rpm
what else?</TD></TR></TABLE>
WRONG p28 is 7200rpm redline / 7300rpm fuel cut
as i know the redline will be at 8,200 or 8,500 rpm
what else?</TD></TR></TABLE>
WRONG p28 is 7200rpm redline / 7300rpm fuel cut
#7
Re: (bmw626)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bmw626 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
WRONG p28 is 7200rpm redline / 7300rpm fuel cut</TD></TR></TABLE>
Then whats so special about the p28 ?
WRONG p28 is 7200rpm redline / 7300rpm fuel cut</TD></TR></TABLE>
Then whats so special about the p28 ?
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#9
Re: (z6 coupe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by z6 coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">obd 1?</TD></TR></TABLE>
My car is obd2
and as I know
obd1 p28 is for d16z6, sohc vtec
obd2 p28 is for d16y8, sohc vtec
and my engine is d16z6 so i will need the obd1 or can I go for the obd2 and ignore the wiring harness ?
My car is obd2
and as I know
obd1 p28 is for d16z6, sohc vtec
obd2 p28 is for d16y8, sohc vtec
and my engine is d16z6 so i will need the obd1 or can I go for the obd2 and ignore the wiring harness ?
#10
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Re: (gray_civic_coupe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gray_civic_coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Then whats so special about the p28 ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
chip-able.
read - http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin...bHome
Then whats so special about the p28 ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
chip-able.
read - http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin...bHome
#11
Re: (Relic1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
chip-able.
read - http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin...bHome</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thnx
chip-able.
read - http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin...bHome</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thnx
#12
Re: (gray_civic_coupe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gray_civic_coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My car is obd2
and as I know
obd1 p28 is for d16z6, sohc vtec
obd2 p28 is for d16y8, sohc vtec
and my engine is d16z6 so i will need the obd1 or can I go for the obd2 and ignore the wiring harness ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
My car is obd2
and as I know
obd1 p28 is for d16z6, sohc vtec
obd2 p28 is for d16y8, sohc vtec
and my engine is d16z6 so i will need the obd1 or can I go for the obd2 and ignore the wiring harness ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
#13
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just get a harness conversion kit for like $80 to run an OMD1 ECU.
get the p28 like everyone's saying, and tune it for free with uberdata / crome from pgmfi.org.
another route is always hondata, you'll usually see better benefits right away since you'll probably have hondata tuned by a professional.
S300 is the way to go with hondata, its defintely the best deal.
as far as as vafc2 goes, i'll explain why they're overrated and sucky: VAFC lets you change the MAP (intake air pressure) and vtec crossover signals. thats it.
so you are able to control how much fuel the engine throws out because you can tell the ECU that there is more air than there really is, and it can give more or less fuel to compensate for it, making it do what you want instead of what it wants, which is good. and you can change the vtec crossover point, which is good and bad. it gives you something else to change, which'll improve your setup in the short run, but if vtec is set stock to cross at 5600 RPM, and you set it to 4200RPM, from 4200 to 5600 the ECU still thinks its on the low cam, so it is using low cam timing maps, and low cam fuel maps. you can change the actual amount of fuel that goes in at any RPM so thats not a big deal, but the timing is something you just dont think about, and this is how engines are blown with VAFCs and VAFC2s.
A chipped P28 is cheaper than a VAFC2, and more tunable. You can even do things like turn off AC over a certain throttle % or a certain RPM, or controll nitrous with a chipped P28. You can even get them to convert to a P72 GSR ecu to control secondary bypass valves found on H22s and GSRs.
so take all that in, read it a few times, keep asking questions, and make the right decision for yourself.
get the p28 like everyone's saying, and tune it for free with uberdata / crome from pgmfi.org.
another route is always hondata, you'll usually see better benefits right away since you'll probably have hondata tuned by a professional.
S300 is the way to go with hondata, its defintely the best deal.
as far as as vafc2 goes, i'll explain why they're overrated and sucky: VAFC lets you change the MAP (intake air pressure) and vtec crossover signals. thats it.
so you are able to control how much fuel the engine throws out because you can tell the ECU that there is more air than there really is, and it can give more or less fuel to compensate for it, making it do what you want instead of what it wants, which is good. and you can change the vtec crossover point, which is good and bad. it gives you something else to change, which'll improve your setup in the short run, but if vtec is set stock to cross at 5600 RPM, and you set it to 4200RPM, from 4200 to 5600 the ECU still thinks its on the low cam, so it is using low cam timing maps, and low cam fuel maps. you can change the actual amount of fuel that goes in at any RPM so thats not a big deal, but the timing is something you just dont think about, and this is how engines are blown with VAFCs and VAFC2s.
A chipped P28 is cheaper than a VAFC2, and more tunable. You can even do things like turn off AC over a certain throttle % or a certain RPM, or controll nitrous with a chipped P28. You can even get them to convert to a P72 GSR ecu to control secondary bypass valves found on H22s and GSRs.
so take all that in, read it a few times, keep asking questions, and make the right decision for yourself.
#14
Re: (EGmikeH22)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGmikeH22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just get a harness conversion kit for like $80 to run an OMD1 ECU.
get the p28 like everyone's saying, and tune it for free with uberdata / crome from pgmfi.org.
another route is always hondata, you'll usually see better benefits right away since you'll probably have hondata tuned by a professional.
S300 is the way to go with hondata, its defintely the best deal.
as far as as vafc2 goes, i'll explain why they're overrated and sucky: VAFC lets you change the MAP (intake air pressure) and vtec crossover signals. thats it.
so you are able to control how much fuel the engine throws out because you can tell the ECU that there is more air than there really is, and it can give more or less fuel to compensate for it, making it do what you want instead of what it wants, which is good. and you can change the vtec crossover point, which is good and bad. it gives you something else to change, which'll improve your setup in the short run, but if vtec is set stock to cross at 5600 RPM, and you set it to 4200RPM, from 4200 to 5600 the ECU still thinks its on the low cam, so it is using low cam timing maps, and low cam fuel maps. you can change the actual amount of fuel that goes in at any RPM so thats not a big deal, but the timing is something you just dont think about, and this is how engines are blown with VAFCs and VAFC2s.
A chipped P28 is cheaper than a VAFC2, and more tunable. You can even do things like turn off AC over a certain throttle % or a certain RPM, or controll nitrous with a chipped P28. You can even get them to convert to a P72 GSR ecu to control secondary bypass valves found on H22s and GSRs.
so take all that in, read it a few times, keep asking questions, and make the right decision for yourself.</TD></TR></TABLE>
THANKS A LOT DUDE you rock
get the p28 like everyone's saying, and tune it for free with uberdata / crome from pgmfi.org.
another route is always hondata, you'll usually see better benefits right away since you'll probably have hondata tuned by a professional.
S300 is the way to go with hondata, its defintely the best deal.
as far as as vafc2 goes, i'll explain why they're overrated and sucky: VAFC lets you change the MAP (intake air pressure) and vtec crossover signals. thats it.
so you are able to control how much fuel the engine throws out because you can tell the ECU that there is more air than there really is, and it can give more or less fuel to compensate for it, making it do what you want instead of what it wants, which is good. and you can change the vtec crossover point, which is good and bad. it gives you something else to change, which'll improve your setup in the short run, but if vtec is set stock to cross at 5600 RPM, and you set it to 4200RPM, from 4200 to 5600 the ECU still thinks its on the low cam, so it is using low cam timing maps, and low cam fuel maps. you can change the actual amount of fuel that goes in at any RPM so thats not a big deal, but the timing is something you just dont think about, and this is how engines are blown with VAFCs and VAFC2s.
A chipped P28 is cheaper than a VAFC2, and more tunable. You can even do things like turn off AC over a certain throttle % or a certain RPM, or controll nitrous with a chipped P28. You can even get them to convert to a P72 GSR ecu to control secondary bypass valves found on H22s and GSRs.
so take all that in, read it a few times, keep asking questions, and make the right decision for yourself.</TD></TR></TABLE>
THANKS A LOT DUDE you rock
#15
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i'll put in as much time as it takes to get people to move off VAFCs, i mean i got into the 12s on one, but when i look back, it would have been wayy easier with my wideband and a chipped p28
#16
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (EGmikeH22)
p28 with the stock program and a conversion harness would probably work just fine. i dont think you will need to actually get it tuned though. with just i/h/e it should run close to stock. but if you have the money then def get a nice little tune to maximize performance.
#19
Re: (EGmikeH22)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGmikeH22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nope its fine, crome has a boost plugin for
free</TD></TR></TABLE>
check out this link
http://www.xenocron.com/products.php?page=obd1-ecu
is this what you are talking about?
free</TD></TR></TABLE>
check out this link
http://www.xenocron.com/products.php?page=obd1-ecu
is this what you are talking about?
#21
Honda-Tech Member
Re: P28 Ecu or VAFC II (Jtech_Kid)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gray_civic_coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
is this what you are talking about?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yup, that way you can use an EMS to tune it later. if you get it chipped now you will need someone to burn the stock p28 program onto it or some kind of basemap if you want to start getting it tuned now.
if you just want the unmodified ecu just get a stock p28 aka non-chipped
is this what you are talking about?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yup, that way you can use an EMS to tune it later. if you get it chipped now you will need someone to burn the stock p28 program onto it or some kind of basemap if you want to start getting it tuned now.
if you just want the unmodified ecu just get a stock p28 aka non-chipped
#23
Honda-Tech Member
if you don't have the p28, you might be able to convert your ecu to a p28... i got a p06 and i'll add vtec and chip it so essentially it will be a p28... once you got vtec, you can control the gsr motors with a chipped p28 or a converted chipped p28 as would be in my case
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