TurBoXBirD16

Yo, i got my ACT clutch and street disc few days ago with bearing and alignment tool

i am going to do this swap myself, i know it will be pain in the ***... lots to do...
now, i am deciding if i should go to those Renting Garage which has all the tools, which will cost arond 150 bucks if done in around 8 hours or i should do it at my garage with basic tools, jacks and jackstands...which costs 0 !!

anybody have any experience swapping the clutch urself?
what tools do i need??
Also, i only have my helm's manual to help me out, if anybody has any instructions or any help, please post !!

oh it's a D16Z6 engine

.nate

It's really not *that* bad to change the clutch if you have the proper tools. If you have a decent set of tools and some jackstands... go for it in your garage!

You'll learn a lot too

Good luck!

TurBoXBirD16

i think i will do it in my garage
all the tools i have is like wrenches, sockets, jacks, jackstands...
and i think i will need a engine hoist, right?
anything else that is a MUST to do the swap??

also, what is that alignment tool for??

CivicEx95

It helps to have a helms manual, but you don't have to. It has a step by step process for removing everything. It sucks dropping the tranny. It's helpful to have an engine hoist, so you can lift up the side of the engine so its straight. Makes putting the tranny back on a lot easier. But i suppose you could use a floor jack.

When removing and installing the pressure plate, loosen the bolts in a crisscross pattern so you don't warp it. It took me about 15 minutes to get everything tightened down. The alignment tool is for aligning the splines on the clutch disc so it'll mate to the splines on the transmission.

And you dont need a ball joint remover for the lower control arm. Just drop the entire LCA and pull the axles out that way.

Expect to spend a whole afternoon doing it. Me and 3 friends did mine the first time in 6 hours, and we had a lot of tools at our disposal. Good luck.

TurBoXBirD16

thanks for the info
but i think i will need the floor jack to let the tranny come down
so i better rent or borrow a engine hoist...

so the alignment tool is only for the disc, right? does the street disc have any bolts?

i am not worried about removing the tranny and putting it back, coz helm's manual has step by step instructions.. all i need is the tools and one friend to help

i am more worried about putting back the disc and plates, more info is needed please

thanks

oh also, you were using jackstands only right??

Mista Bone

Tranny Swap Instructions

1. Loosen the axle nuts with car on ground.
Might have to put on the temp. spare to do this. 32 mm socket. Be sure to unstake the nuts first.

2. Jack up car as high as possible.
Place 4 jackstands under car, one at each side lift point.

3. Remove wheels and axle nuts.

4. Drain tranny oil.

5. Remove bolt for extension rod at rear of tranny.
Allow it to hang down

6. Remove the bitch pin.
Pull back the dust boot. Remove the clip that covers the pin. Drive the pin out with a 8mm or 1/4" punch. Slide linkage off tranny and allow to hang down.

7. Remove the lower balljoint cotter pins.

8. Loosen the balljoint castle nuts.
Only loosen them until end is flush with the threads. Turn the steering wheels for access to the balljoint. You can try hitting the lower control arm with a big hammer. There are "smacking" points that stick out. Careful not to hit the balljoint nut. If this doesn't work, use a "pickle fork" between the spindle and lower control arm. Only use one tine to prevent damage to the dust boots.

9. Remove lower shock mount bolt.
Lift the spindle up clearing the balljoint.

10. Remove axles.
Use a bigger screwdriver to pop them from the tranny. Slide them out as far as possible and let them hang in the shock forks.

11. Remove rear tranny mount bolts.
2 19 mm and one 17 mm. No need to loosen the mount at the firewall.

12. Remove the 2 clutch cover bolts.
Dont bother with the 2 oil pan bolt that hold cover into place.

13. Remove the wiring.
Starter wiring, ground cables, backup lightswitch,and VSS connector at rear of tranny.
DO NOT FORGET THE VSS!

14. Remove the slave cylinder and bracket.
Just remove the 2 mounting bolts and lay the cylinder over by fender.
DO NOT DEPRESS CLUTCH WILL IT IS NOT INSTALLED!

15. Support the engine.
I use a piece of rope tied to the rafters. I put a loop in the end and attach at the upper distributor bolt. Make sure rope is tight.

16. Remove lower front tranny mount.
just the 3 bolts that attach it to the tranny is all that in needed.

17. Remove the starter.

18. Remove 5 tranny bolts.
There is still one left (hidden) holding tranny inplace.

19. Remove upper tranny mount.
Careful if rope is not tight, tranny will drop a little.

20. Support tranny.
I use a come-along attached to the lifting mount on the tranny. Apply some tension. Other way is to modify a floorjack. Remove the saddle and mount a piece of 3/4" thick wood 12" in diameter (speaker box cutouts!)

21. Remove last tranny bolt.
19 mm through bolt that goes into rear mount. Tranny is now free.

22. Slide tranny away from motor.
Sounds simple, but can be a bear. Careful that when it comes loose and your are using a comealong, the weight will shift. Watch your fingers!

23. Lower tranny to ground and slide it out.

Reverse for install!
Check/Replace clutch while your at it!

Tranny lift..........

94CivicSi

iTrader: (1)

It's a snap.

- Grab your alignment tool and slide it into the clutch disc. Be sure the disc is facing the right way, it is marked.

- Place the tip of the alignment tool into the bearing in the flywheel.

- Position the pressure plate over the pins on the flywheel, replace the bolts by hand, then tighten in a criss-cross pattern.

- remove the alignment tool

Now you're ready to reinstall, follow Mista Bones steps.

By the way MB, tranny lift, :thumbup, wish I though that. I gave up trying to balance it on the cup of my jack and just rested it on my chest while why I guided it into place. My sternum didn't appreciate that.

Blue-Civic-Hybrid

iTrader: (1)

Wow, outstanding step by step instrustions Mista Bone...I'm glad I have my Helms before I even try doing that...that's when I will replace my clutch, but I have plenty of time before that.

TurBoXBirD16

excellent step by step instructions !!!
i love it !
i also have a helm's to help me out !!

as for that rope you were using to hold up your engine, do you have a picture ? i am not 100 % sure what u r talking about,
let's say if i use a jack to support the engine at the bottom, which part would be the best part at the bottom to push the engine up??
then i will use another jack to lower down the tranmission !
Also, ur home made jack looks cool ! hehehe... i will do that too ! BUT, instead of using a circle wood, can i just use a rectangle wood surface?? what's the difference anyways??

thanks for the great great info !!!

i am 90 % confident now about the swap..

TurBoXBirD16

thanks for the help

i think it will be okay
also my friend suggests me to take out my flywheel and let somebody to resurface it, is this a good idea??
and i think taking off the flywheel is very easy, right??

thanks

94CivicSi

iTrader: (1)

You can jack under the oil pan but BE SURE you have a block of wood between the pan and the jack. The oil pickup is very close to the bottom of the pan though. I chose to rent a hoist because I didn't want to take a chance of dimpling my oil pan right below the sump and starving the thing of oil.

Mista Bone

rope trick = a piece of nylon rope from the rafters to the upper dist. bolt.

Just make a loop in the end of the rope, and loop of the bolt. Don't worry you have 2 motor mounts still supporting the engine.

sub cut out = scrap wood that was laying around.