ekcivic2

I am running a stock honda year 99(obd2b).Its a Vi so it comes with 3 stage vtec.The engine has never been swapped or modified.

ekcivic2

ok i'll try to change mine and see..

fleabag

So, OP have you tried to diagnose the EGR? Have you remove the egr? Maybe try to test it to see if the solenoid is stuck or sticking? Have you cleaned the EGR chamber on the intake manifold if there is one? I have a Civic HX but it has electrical problems due to being hotwired and I'm not sure if that's a good platform to compare to.

ekcivic2

when i disconnect the hose that goes to the egr nothing seems to be affected even when i unplug the egr wire and drive it there is no cel on.....

fleabag

Maybe there is a short in the egr wiring for the electrical harness???

canadaek

your egr valve could be stuck open . this will cause a rough idil and hesitation if you have access to a vacuum pump(you can also just bypass the egr solenoid put manifold vacuum directly to the egr ) with the engine idling if the valve is free it should run really rough or stall completely if there is no change it's probably stuck or full of carbon .

canadaek

also if the icm is failing in the dizzy it could cause problems also does it break up under load at higher rpm or just below 3000 rpm ?

CarelessFeather

Your car hesitation problem is most likely related to the electrical problem. The fact that battery voltage does not drop means only that the dimming is not caused by the short but by the bad connection. Check the voltage that goes to the headlights, dash and ECU. Most likely the bad connection is in the fuse box or somewhere close to it Solve this problem first otherwise you might be wasting a lot of time and money for unnecessary repairs.

ekcivic2

i'll try the egr test and it will let you know.But most of the time the idle seems fine,it happens mostly during hot weather or in traffic...

Concerning the icm it has been replaced and there is no improvement,it hesitates only in low rpm.

For the dimming issue,the headlight seems to light normal there is no dimming.only the interior lights dim when i accelerate below 3500 rpm.I'll check the dash wiring too.

Myslowdc4

I was having some idling problems for the past two weeks it was idling from 1000 to 1500 RPM so I decided to clean the IACV took it off and clean it with brake fluid I forgot to check if I could move the valve but I installed back in and it was idling at 600 to 700 RPM it worked so I decided to beat the **** out of it in the highway since it was running so good lol I was shifting at 7500RPM everytime I was doing at least 100 and the ****ing check engine light came on and I couldn't rev it pass 5700 RPM tempeture was good and everything was good I opened the hood and the top radiator hose looked like if it was going to burst I was thinking well maybe because the stupid headers need to get heat wrap because it gets really hot inside the engine bay, so I did some new connections to run the fan all the time as soon as I start the car after I was done the check engine light came con and the idling problem came back this time I checked the bottom hose and it was cold when the top one was getting a little to hot so tomorrow I'm changing the thermostat that should fix that problem and check if the idle was bad because of it or maybe I have air in the cooling sistem, by the way have you check compression on the cylinders? now insted of having the problem to rev it up to 3000 rpms now is just 2000 rpms maybe I'm doing something good lol I was about to connect the vtec so it can open from 1000RPM that will give it a little torque on the hills lol but that won't be so good on gas, well still looking to see what the main problem could be on the lack of torque from 1000 to 2000 rpms.

ekcivic2

I've not yet done a compression test...you need to check your radiator.maybe its dirty inside....

Myslowdc4

Yes I think compression check should be a good idea, I need to do mine too, today I change the thermostat, I just ask my self if we ever going to find the problem on this **** well I have a few more things to try but everything is $$$$$ maybe if I turbo this maybe boost will help with the compression at low rpms who knows.

cxtomato

Any updates?
A new MAP sensor or plugs & wires, dizzy parts, ECU?
Hope all is well!

nealnanoHX

I want to say cam timing or over adjusted valves. Have you had the head milled? Mill the head a lot can cause cam timing to change and needs proper adjustment. The other thing that comes to mind it maybe sticking valves. Have you done a compression test??

scottied15

iTrader: (1)

what o2 sensor are you using?

Theklatu

Hello man i know its a old post but did you fixed the problem? i am getting the same problem on my D16Y8

nicolas1320

well i changed the engine to a y8 so i dont have that problem anymore, but it was due to the ecu not being for the engine.

Theklatu

well i got a y8 aswell runing a P28 ecu with jumper arness OBD2 to OBD1 i guess i will keep looking :/