Luserkid

I was just crusing noramlly and my VTEC would come on like normal. Went to pick up a friend and while we were talking outside the car was still on (never turned off the car) and then we go and while in 2nd gear before VTEC it bogged. I think thats weird cause it never did that again, so i try VTEC again. Bogged. WTF?! No CEL or nothing but it still did that. So i pull over and turn off the car and turn it back on, boggs worst then before. I check the oil, still good. Then i check my ECU for any back codes or codes that arent showing but are there (incase if my CEL light is going out) and i found these 2.

15 Ignition output signal (i guess thats why it takes a while for my car to start)

21 VTEC spool solenoid valve (probably why im bogging)

Now the only thing i could think of thats throwing 21 is probably because my cam seal is broken, could that be throwing the code? But what exactly is 15 and how could i fix that? Thanks

Cliff notes for the lazy: How do i fix code 15 and 21?

Edit: 94 GSR in a 93 DX

Luserkid

since everyone likes pictures

2lua

code 15 check the 2p plug at the distributor for tightness. if it good then measure the voltage at the 2p plug with it unplug and the ignition on measure the blk/yel wire and ground to see if you have any voltage, if not you got a short, and if yes then plug the 2p back then go to the ecu measure the voltage at the a21 and a26, if not then you might have a bad icm, and if yes then swap out the ecu.

code 21 try to measure the resistance = ohms the soleniod valve. disconnect the 1p plug and measure the continuity at the wire sensor and ground to see if you have 14-30 ohms. if yes then measure the continuity at the wire side to a4 to see if you got continuity. if not you have short and if yes swap out the ecu. remove the vtec soleniod assmebly and check to see if the screen got clogged up.

Luserkid

What exactly is a 2p plug and a 1p plug? (sorry that must be the biggest newbie question ever)

2lua

2p= 2 wires plug
1p= 1 wire plug

Luserkid

Ok i took my readings.

The 2p plug on the distributor is good.

A21 read nothing
A26 read 10.35

For the VTEC the wire read 12-18 ohms
and A4 reads 18 to 22ohms.

Im going to check the screen of the VTEC soleniod now and see how that looks.

I also opened the ecu and nothing looks burned. What else could cause this problem? Thanks.

Luserkid

up again.

Ok i checked the VTEC Soleniod screen and clean as it could be.

Just went for a spin and still bogs at VTEC, and no CEL. But when i check it it shows 15 and 21. So i just call my ecu dead and get a new one? TIA

2lua

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok i took my readings.


A21 read nothing= +
A26 read 10.35= -
these 2 wires needed to be measure together not one at a time, and with ignition on.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
the soleniod looked good. = you did check the wire at to sensor and to ground rite?
the wire to ecu= not good should read 0 ohm. 12-18ohms looked like you have a short. to be sure you did check plug side to the ecu rite?

Luserkid

Ok WTF?!?!

I checked the 2 wires like you said and it read a .300 (im thinking i did it wrong so im gonna do it again after i reset the ecu)

Anyway i was thinking that it might be a short due to the headunit i put in. So i took the head unit out and read the codes again. Now i have 4 ******* CODES!!

6 ECT - water temperature sensor

10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor

20 Electrical load detector

21 VTEC spool solenoid valve

(hey did you notice 15 is gone? )

WTF is going on? Should i just swap the ecu cause this is freaking me out.

Luserkid

Update. Just got back from a test run. I resetted the ecu and checked for codes and found no codes (YES!) But when i went for a test ride there was no VTEC. Like i didnt hear a cross over or feel one either. And this is a GSR engine on a small *** Civic DX, you feel the crossover. But i have no codes. I am very confused.

Tomorrow ill be going to radioshake and getting a little 2 dollar light for a VTEC light. But what could happen that would take out the VTEC soleniod considering it was perfect when i checked it and im throwing no codes (thats really whats getting me). TIA

Luserkid

Should i just try to sell this ecu to someone and try to get a P28 instead?