commotion

Ok so ive gotten everything ready for my EJ1. for its new brakes. (01 Teg 4 disk swap)
and i need to find some pads and rotors. which rotors should i get i remember hearing bad things about sloted or drilled ones? not sure whats the scoop on them? also what brake pads to get . i have a budget i plan on getting

Skunk 2 Shocks
Skunk 2 Camber Kit front and back (pro Plus ones)
which is about $650

so i want to only spend maybe 200 on the brake pads and Rotors

Thanks

da1lydr1ver

Just get some OEM or blank style rotors. you dont need anything fancy, even cheap over the counter ones at your autoparts store would do just fine.
the reason why you heard bad things about drilled/sloted rotors is because it is mainly for show. slotting rotors is typically used for better brake pad gas ventilation so the pads dont glaze the rotor. drilling is used for better rotor cooling. however, by drilling or slotting, you're decreasing the surface area of which the brake pads make contact with. this is essentially bad. oh yes, drilled/slotted rotors tend to warp easier from what i hear if under heavy use.

having said that, if you must get drilled or sloted rotors, you will notice that most true 'race' applications incorporate this into a big brake system. since the rotors are larger in diameter (amongst other things), the braking system is able to compensate for the lost surface area through a larger diameter rotor.

yadda yadda yadda - just get yourself some oem style rotors and some nice pads. i'd recommend Axxis Ultimates, which should be more than enough for daily driving.

0Brakemotive

Some of what you said is true, Yes both drilled and slotted rotors help against glazing, however the surface contact space lost by the machining is irrelevant to the temperature drop gained from drilled rotors. The surface space lost by the drilling is only about 3% at any point in time. Also what was said about drilled rotors warping easier is not true. They run on average 150-200* cooler than a blank rotor during heavy breaking. Drilled rotors are less likely to develop a high spot (aka warp) on the rotor due to being at a lower temperature. This temperature drop also keeps the pads from basically liquefying and glazing the rotor. General Motors did a whole study on this and it was a published SAE paper proving this. It is why most high end cars have this, Porsche, Corvettes, even Mercedes. If you read that paper you will see it makes a difference.

ALLxMOTOR EG

^^ He breaks it down to you.

trustdestruction

+1



da1lydr1ver, the cracking or warping that you speak happens mostly on the cheap drilled/slotted rotors such as the typical no-name ones found on eBay.

Redbone

but you can't resurface drilled slotted rotors as you can with blanks so why keep spending the money when your not racing?

Meoshe

iTrader: (3)

Brembo blanks w/ Hawk HPS. 3 different cars with this set up. Love it.

0Brakemotive

A drilled and slotted rotor can be resurfaced it just needs to be turned a little slower and make sure you use a fresh bit. we have resurfaced many of them with no issues at all.

driveslow

realisticly, if this is a daily driver vehicle. Go with duralast gold blanks from autozone( three year warranty and duralast cmax pads (lifetime warranty). A lot of guys on here are running this setup including myself and stopping power is 4/5, brake dust is 5/5, noise is 5/5. Its a great bang for your buck setup.

If auto x your vehicle then different story.

instructor74

+2 I can tell you from my exp with cross drilled rotors that I have never had a set warp or crack the last set I had on the car were 6 years old and had 3 sets of pads installed on them never turned them once ( not something I recommend doing).This was my DD and was auto crossed for 3 seasons on them. I figured what the hell why turn them if they were working so well. I replaced them when rust started braking away the surface of the rotor. It really is all about getting a good set of rotors when you buy them

ej1bmx

+1 on this set up! Topped off with some earls SS lines

ddd4114

Would you be willing to upload/email the SAE paper?

instructor74

here is a link to the paper haven't found one that you don't have to pay for
http://www.sae.org/technical/papers/2006-01-0691

ddd4114

Haha yeah, that's why I asked. I don't think it's worth $12.

0Brakemotive

Let me see if i can find it i have it around the office here somewhere, if i can i will scan it and email it if you like.

ddd4114

That would be great; thanks a lot.

instructor74

That would be great. I would really like to read it

egsickz0

i have power slot rotors and hawk pads with 40/40 prop valve... stops like every car should.

Redbone

I work at a lambo/bugatti/rolls/bentley store and the techs that i talk to are told that the only reason the ultra exotic cars have drilled rotors is for looks. All Bentley and Rolls cars come with blanks. Even the Mercedes SLR Mclaren comes with blanks.

I thought that with the way pad technology was today there was no outgassing or need for the drill holes to take away surface from the pad? Isn't that another reason drilled rotors are mainly for high speed/race cars instead of daily driven vehicles?

batallic

for a DD get blanks from the auto store