DX Hybridizer

Ok well I have had my share of brake issues since I upgraded them. Here is what I have:

15/16 RS booster and M/C
4040 RS prop valve from IAS
Fastbrakes upgrade kit in the front w/ GSR calipers
Rear GSR disc brakes, as well as the stock DX drums


Ok so here is the issue I swapped all this at the same time. I initally used a GSR booster with the RS m/c that had my rear brakes somewhat locked up do to the rod in the m/c. B18c5-eh2 was ablel to help me with that issue to find that so that got fixed. After that replaced it with the rs booster and m/c. THen I had the right rear disc brake to barely graze but catch a bit.

So I got pissed figured I had seized rear caliper on the disc brakes so for the time I figured I'd go back to the drums. Switched that around and now I have the rear drum grazing just a little bit at 1/4 of the turn each rotation just like the disc brake swap had done. So is it safe to say try swapping the porportioning valve back to stock? Would that be my best bet. As it's only one side that is having the issue??

I'm desperate and going crazy over this whole mess. Looking for some scenario's as to what to change or do?

I no longer have the stock booster/master or prop as well as front brakes. But I have no issues with the fronts at all they work great.

If there were to be something in the lines some how would a pressure bleed system be able to kick it out? I'm out of idea's help me guys!

DX Hybridizer

I know I wrote a big article up there but someone has to have some idea's. Damn this board moves fast!

DX Hybridizer

Nobody, nothing?

piscorpio

Not sure I understand what your problem is, you say the rears are always "catching"? Do you mean they always seem to be braking, or when you use the brakes, they catch first?

And just to clarify, you have basically RS MC, booster, and prop. valve with gsr brakes all around?

DX Hybridizer

Yeap correct to clarify on the parts.

It catchs with out being ont he brakes. More like a nick for 1/4 of a full revolution of the brake.

This happend with the GSR rear discs and now when I put the drum DX brakes back on to check if it's those it does the same thing. The driver rear doesn't the passenger rear does. I'm so lost and frustrated I could crwwwwy.

As far as brake bias it's all ok as far as I know. It's just this one rear side does a little catch of the brakes to not make them spin without friction.

I'm down to to possible guesses. And there guesses. Prop valve, or something with that one specfic brake line. I traced the line all the way back and found nothing out of line, be it not screwed in correct or kinks.

Since it's a hybrid brake system, it's hard to go to a mechanic to have them trouble shoot it as they can give me about a million excuses as to why because of the parts I use.

piscorpio

hmm, did you adjust your parking brake cable? I know on my EK and EG both, the cables kind of line up screwy, meaning it does catch a little sooner on the passenger side than on the driver side. Play with the cable adjustment a bit if you havent already, see if you can settle it that way. I wouldn't think the valve would cause the problem, if it is occuring before you are even applying the brakes.

Also, I had a problem with a siezed caliper pin and it basically was in partial brake mode at all times. This would be a bit more obvious, because you will wear pads down in literally on drive around town and smell the pads cooking. Make sure the caliper pins move freely on the rears, to ensure they are not siezed. (Apparently water can get inside the rubber boots and raise hell, rusting them in place.)

Hope this helps give an idea or two that you may not have thought of.

TodaSi

Yep, check the e-brake cable, and return spring.

You can run the 3030 (disc/drum) prop valve, or the 4040 (disc/disc). Either won't make a difference if one of your brakes are dragging. Bleed, bleed and re-bleed your brakes.

FWIW,
I have had a nightmare with my set-up as well, but after going over it with Brian (Fastbrakes), I'm all set.
I'm running the Wilwood Dynalite kit with 2 piece rotor up front and ITR spec rear calipers. I had been using an RS booster and 15/16 MC. Brian said the booster is for # of pedal pressure (45 lbs or so is the Honda standard, what they like the pedal to be at). Of course the master cylinder is for VOLUME. For the Wilwood Dynalite calipers (one's Brian uses in his set-ups and the set up you can get at Summit), the 13/16 MC is what you should use, that is what the calipers were designed for. If you use the 15/16 MC, then you will just lose pedal travel, (more volume per % of pedal travel, it's a closed system )

I hope this helps, all I can do is tell you what worked with my set-up and what Brian said I should do. Like he said, "It's a simple hydraulic system." Yea, easy for his to say

You can swing by and I'll help you out....for a nice duckbill