coprunr

i did a search and really couldn't find an answer to my question....

a friend of mine has a '93 Civic sedan that has a LONG history behind....
some back ground on the issues with the car...

it all started here ..... he had a stock bottom end LS/Vtec using a stock head/intake/TB. he let his brother put some Skunk 2 cams in it. while installing the cams he mixed-up the cam caps and locked the cams in the head while trying to start it , so t-belt jumped several teeth. i found the problem , so he put the caps back where they were supposed to be.after he started the engine it had a very unstable idle (700-1500rpm) and would stall if you reved the engine and let it drop back to idle and when Vtec actuated the engine would fall on it's face , back fire through the intake and detonate severely. he took it to a local Honda tuner and he told him it had bent a valve. while he was replacing the bent valve with aftermarket performance valves , he also had him install aftermarket springs , lock and retainers. he got the engine back together and the same thing happened , once it went to Vtec , it would fall on it face , stumble , detonate , and back fire through the intake. the tuner stated it was the "lower end of the engine". at this point i told him i would build the bottom end if he bought the parts. so he bought a Eagle 1.92L forged crank , eagle rods, SRP pistons , JE file fit rings ,a block guard , a 8 lb flywheel, a billet under drive pulley , a Type-R oil pump , AEM rail and FPR , a SKunk 2 intake , header , AEM cam gears , performance fuel pump , NSX injectors , had the head ported and polished , and converted to Crome in the controller. once the engine was put back together , it did the exact same thing. he took the car back to the tuner , who tuned it on the dyno and killed a rod bearing while on the dyno (had the ignition timing WAY to high and beat the top half of the bearing flat). i replaced the bearing , polished the crank , and checked the clearances (all checked good) , when the engine was restarted we found he had also damaged a wrist pin while dynoing the engine. so out it came. i installed a GSR headed B20 in the car today .we dropped the butteryfly valve intake and put on a Skunk 2 intake , using the same p28 controller with crome , used the B18 engine harness .
the unstable idle and dying problems are gone , but now it does nothing when going into Vtec , you can here Vtec , but it doesn't sound right , and it just stops gaining RPM. the complete engine, Vtec solenoid and Vtec oil pressure switch are all new.

now heres my questions....
#1 ... the guy that did the original swap left something that looks like a IAC zipped tied to the firewall (engine has a IAC on the intake , why does it use 2 if only one is hooked up). it has two coolant lines and a connector running to it. we have tested driove the car with the connector hooked up and unhooked, it doesn't seam to have any effect on the Vtec and if the connector is left unplugged the check engine light does not come on... is it needed and does it have any effect on the the Vtec working? (possible be bad? )

#2 ... if there is a problem with Vtec , does the controller still change spark/ignition tables even if the Vtec is not physically working?


#3 what all inputs does the controller use to determine wether or not to actuated Vtec? coolant temp, rpm , and oil pressure?

sorry for the long post and questions , i'm a Domestic V8 owner and a Subaru Tech. but i respect all makes and models as long as they are done tasteful and serve their purpose. thanks in advance
Coprunr