Ep3-rhdeg

feralcomp

It'll be sweet as long as you're replacing the head.

JRCivic1

The head isn't really the problem... the cams simply don't have any lift or duration. So, replacing the valve springs, retainers and cams with a more aggressive set... you can get Type S power out of the lowly K20A3 engine.

feralcomp

Yeah except with that plan you're still stuck with the suck-*** A3 VTech.

JRCivic1

What does that mean ??? Actually, you obviously have no idea what VTEC is and how it works. The crossover point would be changed from the original 2200 RPM... mechanically, you would have a bit of a choppy idle which many people find very sporty and appealing since the intake rocker arm set-up would essentially keep one valve on the high lift long duration cam profile all of the time while both exhaust valves would be operating on the big lobe at all times. Once the VTEC crossover point is reached, both intake valves would be operating from the big lobe... just like a three-lobe camshaft profile. The A3 only has a change on the Intake side... much like a SOHC VTEC engine. So, if what you mean by "suck-***" is that you do not have VTEC on both camshafts... well then, that is merely an opinion. As I stated before, an A3 and an A2 can make similar peak power... the advantage of the A2 system would be a smoother idle, better fuel economy, efficiency and performance at lower engine RPM's.

feralcomp

Jeeze, you're so right. You're clearly such an expert that the OP is very fortunate you're willing to take the time to correct misinformation that people such as myself toss out there after just making things up.

Or not.

" The VTEC system on engines like the K20A3 only operate on the intake cam; at low rpm only one intake valve is fully opened, the other opening just slightly to create a swirl effect in the combustion chamber for improved fuel atomization. At high rpm, both intake valves open fully to improve engine breathing. In engines such as the K20A2 found in the Acura RSX Type-S, the VTEC system operates on both the intake and exhaust valves, allowing both to benefit from multiple cam profiles. " (Wikipedia)

I know, right? Who cares about that stuff?

OP, make sure you're well informed before spending money. Clearly there's a lot of chaff to sort thru.

JRCivic1

Tone it down a bit there feralcomp... I offered answers to the OP's original questions. Maybe it isn't how you or I would build a "K", but it is obvious that the OP seems compelled to build the A3. You trashing his cylinder head isn't constructive... and the reality is that although in some respects the A2 head would have a slight edge over the A3 head like I have already clearly stated above... other qualities such as simplicity and affordability tip the scale back toward the A3. In addition, a big cammed A3 would have a lopey idle which many find appealing today.

Since both heads can make similar power in a street type of build, and each have some unique appealing qualities that allow a builder to make an informed decision as to which one works best for them... I believe it is unfair and inaccurate to label one "suck ***" and the other great.

So in that sense... I brought the WHEAT and you dragged in the chaff. Oh, and I spelled VTEC correctly...

Jadubb

middle of one

Jadubb

So heres the story base 5 speed rsx 2nd gear went out managed to find a k20a3 with ep3 trans for 400$.....pu;;ed my k20a3 and ttrans out swaped trans to mine and put it back.....in the process of doing this i had the only key stolen and well ive gone through 467 dollars withg the dam lock smiths just to get a key that turned the green key off. imobilizer check. next i was not getting any start just a loud click that after testing it three times orileys bad never again...the altornator had a bad regulator in it...while thinking that i had a good alternator i made a whoile new charge harnes and basically rewired to spect the lower harnes or charge harness. replaced the altornator with the ep3 k20a3 altornator and i have turn over yeaaaaaa........but not start!!!!!!! next ran my code obd2 reader and pulling a P0131 1 Primary HO2S Circuit Low Voltage (Sensor 1) and a P1361 8 TDC Sensor Intermittent Interruption so yes on the 0131 sensor is not hooked up......i assumed through threrads that the cam sensor upper one is bad.....replaced it from the extra k20a3. now the car has been sitting for a year with half tank in it and i do have fuel to the fuel rail sitch i also swapped from the extrta k20a3 wich was cleaned and new regulator.so ......so now after pulling the ecu to check the numbers and so on i have 1. year old gas { fully drained out and replaced with new gas tommorow} 2. code 1361 & 0131 {swaped upper cam sensor with voltage test toi the end of the plug good and sensor solinoid working} 3. crank but no start (pumping gas to the fuel raiol} 4. Programed key but still green key { the lock smith computer says its talking to the ecu and all good} i have a kpro on order but taking a bit of time to pay off im changing the gas in the morning.....so what could it be crank sensor ? imobol;izer? ecu? cant take a k20a3 cam sensor for swap? and is it possible to put a 37820-paa L10 PU 1003 100322 ecu out of a 02 civic five speed with k24 in my ride for now ?any help or ideas ill respond thanks guys Bookmark Reply