lazynok

lets start from the begining....

I got myself a B18C1 (swap) from a dude on here. He seams cool and he's been helping me out with the swap through every step of the way and allways been in contact, even got his friends to me out on the phone. So I'm pretty sure the engine is in good condition; it's getting compression tested tomarrow.

It's an OBD2 swap, and I'm running it on an unchipped P28 (OBD1).

I have done no wiring what-so-ever. Numberous Honda-Tech searches prove that I can just run it on a stock P28 with no wiring at all and i'tll wtill work (I won't have IABs, my fuel mapping will suck, but it should work.) b18c5eh2 preaches this a lot.

Anyways, had problem's at first with the sparkplug wires, but that is all settled out.

Codes I was getting were TPS, Lean air/fuel sensor, and O2 sensor(not hooked up).

Well I was using the stock fuel pressure regulator from my D16z6, and I guess that was making me run lean. Now I got a B18B1 regulator and the LEAN code is GONE.

Then I plugged the O2 sensor in and O2 is gone. (note, sensor was is just hanging there. No bung in pipe )

Well the O2 sensor code went away, now all that was left was the TPS. Stupid honda design wont let me take off the TPS... well here is the damage.

'

Damage speaks for itself; I guess it hit something in transpot or sometihng.

Well since I can't take off the TPS (maybe searching the archives will uncover a way), I swapped the whole throttle body from my D16Z6. I cleaned all the gasket off, and the integra one (very low miles), the gasket was intact so I just reused it temporarily... it should be sealed good. It came off in all one peice and did not stick.

Anyways, stripped the MAP sensor screw. Dremeled a notch in it and used a flathead. Anyways.

Starts up fine now. Idles steady around 1200rpm (pretty high..)

When I mess with the timing, I can make the whole car shake.. or the engine shake.. or the engine semi-still... etc.

I can push the O2 sensor in the exhaust tube, or let it dangle; it runs the same.

When I turn the car on, it runs normal at 1200 for three seconds, then the check engine light comes on. The light stays illumated and the RPM or engine tone does not change at all.

When I turn off the car, I cannot check the engine code. When it is on, with jumper in the harness or not; it does not blink. When I plug the jumper in with the engine on, the light does not change.

How can I figure out what the **** is going on?


Also I get smoke out of the exhaust manifold. I have no gasket in the middle of the 2 peiec stock manifold, so smoke comes out of there. No smoke out of the rear end of the car... maybe the cat filters it all out. But I do get water... water all over the ground.... headgasket? Like I said, compression test tomarrow. The radiator isnt loosing any fluid... so its very perplexing..

Thank you for your time! help please, car has been not running for a month... I need a caR!! =[ =[

(posted in here because this forum has more traffic than hybrid, and I need my car running fast )

ironcheftony

remove the tps the same way u removed the map

lazynok

hmm, I tried that.. but my dremel died.. so i had a small notch.. then i bent the screw driver in it.. and I can't find my charger =[

specie

use a hacksaw to make the groove. Then use the flathead screwdriver to loosen the screw.

lazynok

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxmatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tps on a obd1 eg, car will start, idle low, then throw a code and idle slightly high. Should run fine though so if it's not starting then i'd try somewhere else.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just saw this looking through the honda-tech archives.. sounds exactly the same as mine... hopefully when i put the new TPS on te b18c1 throttle body it'll work.

I'll try out the hacksaw idea.

lazynok

up... anymore opinions?

_BEN_

I have a tps and a dremil. I could help you fix that atleast.

Slopoke

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lazynok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">up... anymore opinions?</TD></TR></TABLE>

When you put it on, make sure you calibrate it.

Read the voltage on the middle wire.
with the throttle closed it should read .5volts
with the throttle wide open is should read 4.5volts.

Just incase you didnt know.

dohc notec

it doesnt sound like a head gasket or compression problem. if it was the head gasket coolant would either be burned in the cylinders or exhaust would be forced through the cooling system. for example if you ran the car with the rad cap off it would be bubbling out a lot. almost constantly. and if it were in the cyls. you would have constant thick white smoke. a normal running engine will produce condensation which explains the water on the ground.

as for the running bad..

first off i would get the right ECU. ive read that a b18c will run on the P28 but will run lean like you said. so obviously its running lean which will cause it to run weird. as for the high RPM idle check the simple things, vaccuum leaks, and throttle cable tention. maybe that gasket for the TB isnt sealing and its making it idle high.

the not being able to pull codes is weird. it doesnt flash at all? its supposed to flash the one long to short to show its working properly. maybe the ECU is bad?

basicly my advise to you is get the right ECU and TPS. set the TPS to spec i think its like .45 volts (someone correct me if im wrong.) and disconnect the throttle cable. if it is still idling high spray around with some 2+2 and look for vaccuum leaks.

Hope this helps.