lazynok

lets start from the begining....

I got myself a B18C1 (swap) from a dude on here. He seams cool and he's been helping me out with the swap through every step of the way and allways been in contact, even got his friends to me out on the phone. So I'm pretty sure the engine is in good condition; it's getting compression tested tomarrow.

It's an OBD2 swap, and I'm running it on an unchipped P28 (OBD1).

I have done no wiring what-so-ever. Numberous Honda-Tech searches prove that I can just run it on a stock P28 with no wiring at all and i'tll wtill work (I won't have IABs, my fuel mapping will suck, but it should work.) b18c5eh2 preaches this a lot.

Anyways, had problem's at first with the sparkplug wires, but that is all settled out.

Codes I was getting were TPS, Lean air/fuel sensor, and O2 sensor(not hooked up).

Well I was using the stock fuel pressure regulator from my D16z6, and I guess that was making me run lean. Now I got a B18B1 regulator and the LEAN code is GONE.

Then I plugged the O2 sensor in and O2 is gone. (note, sensor was is just hanging there. No bung in pipe )

Well the O2 sensor code went away, now all that was left was the TPS. Stupid honda design wont let me take off the TPS... well here is the damage.

'

Damage speaks for itself; I guess it hit something in transpot or sometihng.

Well since I can't take off the TPS (maybe searching the archives will uncover a way), I swapped the whole throttle body from my D16Z6. I cleaned all the gasket off, and the integra one (very low miles), the gasket was intact so I just reused it temporarily... it should be sealed good. It came off in all one peice and did not stick.

Anyways, stripped the MAP sensor screw. Dremeled a notch in it and used a flathead. Anyways.

Starts up fine now. Idles steady around 1200rpm (pretty high..)

When I mess with the timing, I can make the whole car shake.. or the engine shake.. or the engine semi-still... etc.

I can push the O2 sensor in the exhaust tube, or let it dangle; it runs the same.

When I turn the car on, it runs normal at 1200 for three seconds, then the check engine light comes on. The light stays illumated and the RPM or engine tone does not change at all.

When I turn off the car, I cannot check the engine code. When it is on, with jumper in the harness or not; it does not blink. When I plug the jumper in with the engine on, the light does not change.

How can I figure out what the **** is going on?


Also I get smoke out of the exhaust manifold. I have no gasket in the middle of the 2 peiec stock manifold, so smoke comes out of there. No smoke out of the rear end of the car... maybe the cat filters it all out. But I do get water... water all over the ground.... headgasket? Like I said, compression test tomarrow. The radiator isnt loosing any fluid... so its very perplexing..

Thank you for your time! help please, car has been not running for a month... I need a caR!! =[ =[

lazynok

anyone?

boosted_dc2

you can take off the tps by dremeling the rivet thing off carfully. then there are jsut screws tht can hold it in because the holes behind it are threaded. also maybee there are no codes to pull now that you fixed everything. if you reset the ecu then the old codes wont be stored anymore. as far as the smoke is concerned what color is it? get a gasket in there and then try it, some smoke might come out of your exhuast because its the first time its been started up in a while, also if its cold where you are then smoke/condensation might be coming out.

Landon

Andres-eh2

Map sensor is working?

I bet you have a vacuum leak also!

lazynok

map sensor is fine and the correct plug is plugged in.

when i put my finger over the valve hole in the throttle body... the engine sputters and then dies.. so i know itsnot a vacuum

well i've gotten it to idle steady ~700rpm and set the timing...
compresion was ~240 across the board

smoke comes out of my radiator... weird. o well it doesnt effect much so yeah.

but the strange check engine light is still on..

Andres-eh2

Recheck the CEL, sometimes even tho you jump the plug you dont get the contacts to circuit completely.

And as for the smoke, its usually left over grease and oil thats being vaporized. Common after a swap, unless its coming from like the block

locash

One other thing worth mentioning here..

The fuel pressure rating on the GSR is vastly different from both the LS and the D16Z6.. The GSR runs at about 57 psi vs. 41 or so for the others.. Do yourself a favor and get a GSR/ITR fuel pressure regulator and change the ecu or get it properly reprogrammed..

D3U1LT

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lazynok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Anyways, had problem's at first with the sparkplug wires, but that is all settled out.
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This may be off topic but I was wondering what the problem was with your wires. I am wondering because I am trying to troubleshoot what is wrong with my single cam Z6.