TwoFaced

^ B18 TB

What are these parts?

I have a d16y8 in my 6th gen, and my tb doesn't have the coolant line looking bung on the top...and those two studs with the threaded holes by the throttle control, have nothing in them on my y8.

apexi_rsx

top nipple is for your charcoal canister. those mounting points u wont use. also on this t/b u will not have a FITV

-__-

the two mounting points are if u are using a GSR intake manifold/throttle body pulley. they are for the throttle cable bracket. the top nipple can be plugged if u dont need it for your charcoal canister. obd-0 uses it for MAP i believe

92civlude

No, its not used for MAP. MAP is manifold vacuum. This port is timed for part throttle vacuum, (canister purge). Did you notice this TB has no idle air bleed screw?

TwoFaced

That's just a picture I found online...it's the clearest pic I could find to show both pieces I had a question about...the one I have is an OEM TB and has the air bleed screw.

Essentially I'm trying to dremel all the excess stuff, cast marks, unneccessary crap, and make it look cleaner...I've got spare time and a dremel so why not?

I've already knife-edged the throttle plate...and I'm countersinking the plate screws...I'm just curious if I can shave the above pieces off without having problems. The top screw post has to stay because it's where the spring hangs on for the throttle control but I can round it down so I just wanna know if I can take the bottom screw stud and that top bung off without having problems?

If anyone knows off the top of their head, does the air bleed screw come with an rtv kinda stuff one it? Both the b18 and my d16 appear to have some liquid gasket material on it? If nobody knows I'll just start another thread.

92civlude

I knife-edged mine and it sounded like turbo spool! That stuff on the screw is Hondabond4. Not hondabond HT. The factory uses it to keep the idle screw from turning during engine vibration. A dab of paint on the edge of the screw does the trick.

apexi_rsx

mine does not have a idle screw either i adjust mine by the throttle plate u just crack it till ur idling 1000rpms when warm. there's not much adjustment. mines worked just fine this way. some people have problems.

92civlude

It works if you reset the TPS sensor back down to .6v at idle. I adjusted my idle though the IACV. I gave it more percentage at idle when I dyno tuned it.

TwoFaced

Cool...I shaved the top valve and bottom stud today I'll post pics tomorrow.

I don't really understand that top bung...when I shaved it...it goes to nothing...so I don't really understand how it works...

Out of curiosity...has anyone here done the coolant bypass? Good or bad results? I'm thinking about shaving off the coolant line assembly on the bottom too.

92civlude

The coolant hoses are there to keep the TB from icing up in frigid weather. I dont think youll have tht problem in Florida. Keeping the TB cold is beneficial.

crzdfr4

i have a problem with my intake manifold, the nipple for the coolant line that runs through it is broke off and i cant find anywhere to get the replacement any ideas or do i need to replace the whole manifold.

apexi_rsx

no just by pass it. ive seen temperatures below freezing and still have never had a problem with the T/B freezing up.

TwoFaced

^ ok good...I'm in FL so I don't think I'll see a problem if I shave the lines off the bottom of my tb...I've heard of people in colorado doing it with no problems. Today I'm gonna do the bypass since my d16 tb is still on...if all goes well and I don't have any problems with it for a bit then I'll shave the assembly off the b18 tb I'm working on. It's the coldest right now it will ever get where I live so if I don't have problems with the sticking people mention I doubt I ever will.

TwoFaced

@ crzdfr4...I don't know how they're held in to the tb but if I shave the assembly off of the bottom of the tb I'm working on and can get them out...then I guess I could send them to you if you pay shipping if you're really hell bent on keeping them.

TwoFaced

Top one is one of the two screw stubs shaved off completely, the other one has to stay because it's what is holding the spring...but it's been rounded a bit.

Second pic is that top bung and surrounding shaved to meet up with the idle screw.

Last pic just an overall of what it looks like so far...obviously it looks a little rough as it has been sanded with 120 so far. A bunch of the cast marks have been shaved...the little letters on the top side shaved...almost all the corners have been rounded. Throttle plate knife-edge...screws will be countersunk...should be clean compared to the oem look with a little better function.

I'm trying to decide between painting it gun metal, or sanding down to 1500 wet and going over it with polish and makin' it shine. Any input is welcome...I'm kinda leaning towards the polish right now.

apexi_rsx

polished look looks awesome but its a pain in the a$$ to keep clean especially if this is a daily driver. i tried to polish my performer X manifold i should have clear coated it when i did it but i didn't and its hell trying to keep clean. my tb was already polished when i got it and its hard to keep clean even when it was professionally done.

TwoFaced

^Damn...yeah it's definitely a daily driver. That sucks...cause I was definitely leaning towards the polish...it's not a ridiculous amount of work since it's a small piece...so I think I might polish it and if it's too hard to maintain then I'll take it off and paint it...not like it's really hard to yank on and off and I have a spare TB I could throw on till paint dries if I decide to do that later down the road.