1993eghatch

so i posted a while back and came to the conclusion that my o2 sensor was bad well i finally got around to purchasing a new o2. today i replaced it and i still have the some bogging not as bad as before but still gets makes me angry. im thinking it may be the spark plugs being fouled out. can the spark plugs become fouled out from being driven with a bad o2 making the engine run rich?

if so, are there any simple ways to clean the spark plugs

dpetro1

do you have any check engine lights? if you are concerned about the plugs, just replace them, only $10 and an easy thing to rule out.

also, what led you to believe that the o2 sensor was bad?

1993eghatch

well before i did my swap i was getting horrible horrible gas mileage, then when after the swap i was getting about the same out of the b16 and the only part that is off of the old motor was the o2 sensor. then the motor started to bog pretty hard at partial throttle. when i posted these symptoms i kept getting responses saying its the o2 sensor. at one point there was an o2 sensor cel code but it has since been erased, then never popped back on.

at this point its either i can fix it quick and easy or it has to go (prego wife's orders)...i really dont want to get rid of it

red95civ

i am having the same kind of problem out of mine and i have been getting a lot of responses saying to check map sensor and iac sensor haven't tried it but just a tip if you get it figured out please post back to me

BrandonR

Does no one think about changing the fuel filter? An old/clogged filter can cause bogging, hard starts, and bad gas mileage. They are a regular maintence item. 14.99$ at autozone. -Later, BR

dpetro1

have you checked to make sure that both the mechanical and distributor timing are correct?

what else have you checked/replaced other than the o2 sensor? also what brand o2 sensor did you replace the stock unit with? (oem honda, ngk, denso, etc.)

Mrhiguy

I hope you bought an OEM quality o2 senso and not an autozone special.

1993eghatch

fuel filter was changed with the swap, o2 sensor brand OBX.

i havent really checked anything other than that. to be honest troubleshooting these motors is quite difficult to me. i will check out the map and iac sensors

how do you check the distrubutor timeing ill have to check the mechanical this weekend

Former User

Start by doing a tune up (plugs, wires, cap, and rotor).

Then adjust the ignition timing to spec using a timing gun. Below is not for a B16a3, but the procedure should be nearly identical for your engine. Basically, with the warm engine idling to spec, jump the service connector and make sure the pointer aligns with the red mark (middle in group of three) on the crank pulley:

1993eghatch

thanks ron i will check that out tomorrow when i have the day off

one thing i neglected to mention that may pertain to helping me diagnose this problem is the bogging only starts once the motor has become mostly warmed up to all the way warmed up. that is one of the leading factors to what made me believe that it was my o2 sensor. i was told that the motor runs in an open loop till the motor is warmed up then the o2 sensor takes affect, so when it took affect and the motor ran horrible then i presumed they were right and took action.

skuded

are you running a catalytic convertor, you might check to see if its clogged up, just unbolt your exhaust from the cat and run open header for a very short test drive to see if it runs better

hondadude_rudo

simillar problem to one im having with a car im working on. i made a thread obout it in the ef section although its running a full z6 swap and obd1 converted. it has me stumped.

1993eghatch

havent had a chance to check the timing i am hoping to get time today

i am currently running straight pipe, however i do not plan on running that way for long too loud and i live around some grumpy old people.

i will be checking all suggestions today if i get the chance...will post results

1993eghatch

so i decided to try the map sensor first and that seemed to do the trick i reset the ecu with the map disconnected, then loosened the MAP jiggled it then tightened it back down, and that seemed to do the trick.

it is running great right now no bogging nothing, however the MAP sensor is still the same so who knows it may still be a bad part that needs to get replaced. stopping at a junkyard later to get another and price out other parts that i may want for the civic.

1993eghatch

ok so my buddy brought over his ek hatch with a turbo gsr. we decided to pull his throttle body off and replace it on mine to test if the map and tps sensors were bad. when i pulled my throttle body off i saw nothing but black. the intake was coated black. so starts the process of pulling the intake off to clean it. i took off the fuel rail and then the injectors and they were coated in black as well. once the intake off i took the carb clean and a wire brush...now it looks so clean so nice. im excited to get it back on and take her for a spin.

anyway heres my theory with the intake being coated in fuel oil or whatever it was the fuel coming in from the injectors was getting absorbed into the gunk only allowing so much fuel to get into the combustion chamber which then told the O2 sensor that you are lean pushing more fuel and less air in choking the motor off causing the bogging. that would explain the bogging only when warmed up

fv8s

i had the same issue on my Gs-R. check my thread the answer is in there (mine was my ignition timing)

daje00

I was having similar problems for 2 yrs and the problem was that i needed a valve adjustment.

1993eghatch

ok so in a final hopes to get my bogging issue resolved i have taken it to another shop that i have found. they have narrowed the spitting ang popping of the motor to the rotor off the distributor and the bogging to the fuel pump only pushing 35psi when it should be 42psi. they say that the motor is basically starving itself at this point. now heres my thing i replaced the fuel pump a couple months ago back when i had the d15z1 is there a difference in fuel pumps for the d15 to the b16. i have been told that the fuel pressure regulators are all the same so wouldnt that mean all the stock fuel pumps are too?