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#4
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Re: (jdm_dc_fan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm_dc_fan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont you need upgraded valvetrain to run jun cams?</TD></TR></TABLE>
you need an upgraded valve train to run CTR cams as well. The CTR cams will run much nicer, and your timing belt and other parts will last longer. If you're looking to build a race motor, go with race cams..otherwise..street cams are nice. The CTR blends good power with OEM reliability. You can use CTR valve springs, which will cut down on your T-belt stress...and you T-belt will still last 60-100k..if you're using OEM.
Not to say that JUN doesnt have street cams...but with the CTR cams, everything is built to work very well together. You will need tuning either way, however.
Toda is a good cam company to go with if you want something a little more extreme but with good reliability. They sell whole kits that are designed to work well together. Cams, T-belts, valve springs, and retatiners that are designed to work together without breaking one or the other part.
Your question is very vague. Which makes me think you're kinda just starting out, and are maybe a little noob-ish?? No offense or anything, BTW. If you're just getting into it, go with the CTR cams/springs as they offer the best in reliability, and drive-ability since they were put on production cars.
Idle quality, gas mileage, emissions are all considered in OEM cams. You will retain all of them while still making power with CTR cams.
you need an upgraded valve train to run CTR cams as well. The CTR cams will run much nicer, and your timing belt and other parts will last longer. If you're looking to build a race motor, go with race cams..otherwise..street cams are nice. The CTR blends good power with OEM reliability. You can use CTR valve springs, which will cut down on your T-belt stress...and you T-belt will still last 60-100k..if you're using OEM.
Not to say that JUN doesnt have street cams...but with the CTR cams, everything is built to work very well together. You will need tuning either way, however.
Toda is a good cam company to go with if you want something a little more extreme but with good reliability. They sell whole kits that are designed to work well together. Cams, T-belts, valve springs, and retatiners that are designed to work together without breaking one or the other part.
Your question is very vague. Which makes me think you're kinda just starting out, and are maybe a little noob-ish?? No offense or anything, BTW. If you're just getting into it, go with the CTR cams/springs as they offer the best in reliability, and drive-ability since they were put on production cars.
Idle quality, gas mileage, emissions are all considered in OEM cams. You will retain all of them while still making power with CTR cams.
#5
just seeing what other owners have to say about the products and such. or you can say. just doing my homework.
if i do go for the ctr cams. does anyone kno where vtec hits? my coworker has them. and said it hit at 4500 or so. seems a bit on the low side.
if i do go for the ctr cams. does anyone kno where vtec hits? my coworker has them. and said it hit at 4500 or so. seems a bit on the low side.
#6
been there done that
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Re: (meh)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by meh »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just seeing what other owners have to say about the products and such. or you can say. just doing my homework.
if i do go for the ctr cams. does anyone kno where vtec hits? my coworker has them. and said it hit at 4500 or so. seems a bit on the low side.</TD></TR></TABLE>
vtec on a stock b18c1 is 4400. to best determine where to have vtec crossover with ctr cams put it on a dyno and tune it.
if i do go for the ctr cams. does anyone kno where vtec hits? my coworker has them. and said it hit at 4500 or so. seems a bit on the low side.</TD></TR></TABLE>
vtec on a stock b18c1 is 4400. to best determine where to have vtec crossover with ctr cams put it on a dyno and tune it.
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Re: (doood)
depends on which jun cams you run. B-serious hit the spot with the ctr cams, best OEM street cams you can invest in...
o and vtec is not set/determined by the cams you have, it is electronically controlled..
o and vtec is not set/determined by the cams you have, it is electronically controlled..
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#8
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Re: (slowpokecivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowpokecivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">depends on which jun cams you run. B-serious hit the spot with the ctr cams, best OEM street cams you can invest in...
o and vtec is not set/determined by the cams you have, it is electronically controlled..</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol yep.
V=VALVE
T=TIMING
E=ELECTRONIC
C=CONTROL
valve timing with electronic control= VTEC. Your ECU determines your VTEC point. B16B VTEC is at around 6k. The GSR is the lowest VTEC point at 4500-4800 or so. Like someone else said, a dyno tune will determine you best crossover point. You have to also consider gearing and daily drive ability. If you set your vtec point at 4k-4500, you will be in VTEC on the highway between 70-80 depending on what trans you decide to put in.
o and vtec is not set/determined by the cams you have, it is electronically controlled..</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol yep.
V=VALVE
T=TIMING
E=ELECTRONIC
C=CONTROL
valve timing with electronic control= VTEC. Your ECU determines your VTEC point. B16B VTEC is at around 6k. The GSR is the lowest VTEC point at 4500-4800 or so. Like someone else said, a dyno tune will determine you best crossover point. You have to also consider gearing and daily drive ability. If you set your vtec point at 4k-4500, you will be in VTEC on the highway between 70-80 depending on what trans you decide to put in.
#9
hmmm gotta get it tuned soon then. seems like vtec hits really late in my b18c1.
question 2. what tires are you guys usings? i have such shitty tires on right now. i keep spinning and spinning....its quite lame
question 2. what tires are you guys usings? i have such shitty tires on right now. i keep spinning and spinning....its quite lame
#10
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Re: (meh)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by meh »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just seeing what other owners have to say about the products and such. or you can say. just doing my homework.
if i do go for the ctr cams. does anyone kno where vtec hits? my coworker has them. and said it hit at 4500 or so. seems a bit on the low side.</TD></TR></TABLE>
IMO Get a vtec controller then if your afraid that the last valve takes too long to activate
if i do go for the ctr cams. does anyone kno where vtec hits? my coworker has them. and said it hit at 4500 or so. seems a bit on the low side.</TD></TR></TABLE>
IMO Get a vtec controller then if your afraid that the last valve takes too long to activate
#11
been there done that
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Re: (meh)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> If you set your vtec point at 4k-4500, you will be in VTEC on the highway between 70-80 depending on what trans you decide to put in. </TD></TR></TABLE>
not so. vtec will not engage if you're at part throttle below a certain load percentage.
not so. vtec will not engage if you're at part throttle below a certain load percentage.
#12
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Re: (doood)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doood »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
not so. vtec will not engage if you're at part throttle below a certain load percentage.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, but to adjust VTEC, you need a VTEC controller or a stand alone. Most people with just mild mods (bolt ons, and OEM cams) dont go with a stand alone. So that leaves something like a VAFC. A VAFC looks ONLY for RPM to activate vtec. You can hit vtec in your driveway just free revving while the car is dead cold with no oil in it with 5% throttle if you want.
not so. vtec will not engage if you're at part throttle below a certain load percentage.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, but to adjust VTEC, you need a VTEC controller or a stand alone. Most people with just mild mods (bolt ons, and OEM cams) dont go with a stand alone. So that leaves something like a VAFC. A VAFC looks ONLY for RPM to activate vtec. You can hit vtec in your driveway just free revving while the car is dead cold with no oil in it with 5% throttle if you want.
#13
been there done that
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Re: (B serious)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes, but to adjust VTEC, you need a VTEC controller or a stand alone. Most people with just mild mods (bolt ons, and OEM cams) dont go with a stand alone. So that leaves something like a VAFC. A VAFC looks ONLY for RPM to activate vtec. You can hit vtec in your driveway just free revving while the car is dead cold with no oil in it with 5% throttle if you want. </TD></TR></TABLE>
point taken
point taken
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