egg_baLLa

i was just wondering if there was an air bleed bolt for the d16z6 radiator?
i cant seem to find it.

RedlinedVTEC

if there was it would be on the front of the block where the upper radiator hose goes to, if not and you need to bleed your system, jack up the car high enough to where the radiator cap is higher than the rest of the cooling system. then remove the rad cap and then let the car idle with the heater on hot and max, once it gets to normal operating temp and the fan comes on, the system should be free of air bubbles.

egg_baLLa

should the fan come on once or twice? i see ppl saying it should come on once and others say twice?
also is the air bleed bolt suppose to be on the radiator near the upper hose or is it suppose to be on the head near the upper hose?


Modified by egg_baLLa at 1:11 AM 3/1/2005

egg_baLLa

wtf? ok so i filled my radiator up with coolant, lifted the front of the car, and turned on the motor with the heat at full blast. then all of a sudden i noticed my front driver wheel start spinning... i tried to slow it down with my hand but when i let go, it started up again...?? wat is going on? also the coolant started rising and spewing out of the radiator nozzle(where the radiator cap goes to).

mikehawkBUiLT

your wheels will do that when they're off the ground and your car is on

but for bleeding the air, i've never heard of that technique that guy explained in all the years ive been working on cars.

but this is the correct way. there is NO bleeder bolt on a d16z6

what you do is, let your car idle. dont jack it up, nothing, keep it on the ground at idle. take off the radiator cap and fill the rad up w/ coolant and with it idling you squeeze the upper rad hose and you'll see bubbles come out of the coolant. keep doing this to both the upper, and lower hose until you see no more bubbles.

egg_baLLa

hmm ok ill give that a try, but do u know why the coolant keeps gushing out?

egg_baLLa

btw, i have a b18c motor with a d16z6 radiator if that helps.

RedlinedVTEC

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by emo-ejcoupe1.6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but for bleeding the air, i've never heard of that technique that guy explained in all the years ive been working on cars.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well you'd think in "all your years" you'd realize that air travels to the highest point in any system. So having the opening on your radiator higher than the rest of the cooling system would move all the air out of the rest of the system and to the opening of the radiator... seems pretty simple to me. Then again I only do this for a living so what would I know.

dantastic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egg_baLLa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">btw, i have a b18c motor with a d16z6 radiator if that helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>

doesn't the b18c have a bleeder bolt by the upper hose on the head? both my b16 and b18b had one there.

egg_baLLa

i have no idea. can someone take a pic of it so i can see wat it looks like and where its located?

NonovUrbizniz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by emo-ejcoupe1.6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your wheels will do that when they're off the ground and your car is on

but for bleeding the air, i've never heard of that technique that guy explained in all the years ive been working on cars.

but this is the correct way. there is NO bleeder bolt on a d16z6

what you do is, let your car idle. dont jack it up, nothing, keep it on the ground at idle. take off the radiator cap and fill the rad up w/ coolant and with it idling you squeeze the upper rad hose and you'll see bubbles come out of the coolant. keep doing this to both the upper, and lower hose until you see no more bubbles. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's NOT the "proper" way to do it at all.. .that's the way most mechanics/shops do it... it's more than acceptable and it works fine.... BUT...

THERE IS A BLEEDER BOLT ON THE Z6

It is located on head where the upper radiator hose comes off to go to the radiator... follow the upper hose from the radiator to the block and you will see the bleeder bolt right there.

it's a 10mm and it's OBVIOUSLY a bleeder bolt...

the correct way to do it is exactly how you were planning on doing it...

As far as the fan coming on... it doesn't really matter if it comes on once or twice although technically you should wait for it to come on twice...

if you want to simplify you do NOT need to use the bleeder bolt... it's really not necissary.

Also for changing it there is also a bolt in the block that will allow ALL of the coolant to come out... it's a P.I.T.A. to get to and again... not really necissary.

It's located behind the exhaust manifold on the front side of the block... I think it's a 17 but I'm not positive... it's almost impossible to get off (without pulling the header/exhaust manifold) unless someone put anti-sieze on there the last time it was out.

Basically honda designed the engines well enough that you don't "need" any of the bolts associated with flushing/changing the coolant... but they're there if you want.

egg_baLLa

ahh i thought the bleeder bolt was on the radiator itself. but i see that u are saying its on the block for the z6. however i no longer have the z6. i now have a obd2 b18c. does this motor still have a bleeder bolt? i looked at where the upper hose connects to the block, but im still unsure as to which bolt it is.