ex99civictears

Hi all, first time noob poster here, please go easy on me

Background:
A year ago my partner's 99 Civic EX auto stalled out overheating. Plenty of oil but coolant level may have been low. After towing it home, it would start and seemed to idle okay. But it has since sat in a garage, not touched for a year. (long story)
I've tried to get it running this week, finally. Found a bad coolant leak from the hose under the distributor. Repaired that and also installed a new battery.

Problem:
It turns over but won't start.

Diagnostic:
The fuel pump turns on (audible) when turning the ignition on. The fuel lines under the hood feel pressurized.
Did that screwdriver in the spark plug wire test and had spark.
Putting hand in front of air intake, air pulled in when turning the ignition.
All of the electronics seem to work.
The two dash lights that light up are the battery light and oil light.

It seems to turn over at a proper starter speed. No odd noises, doesn't bog down, doesn't seem to ignite at all either though.

I have no idea what the problem is or where to go from here. Spray some starter fluid into the air intake? I'm ignorant about cars but am trying to learn. Any advice would be appreciated!

jbpnoman

Cut up a rag into thin strips. Wrap those strips around a straightened out coat hanger. Remove the spark plugs. Stick your rag/coat hanger contraption down each cylinder, and make sure they come out dry. Some black on the bottom is expected, but if it comes back soaked in oil or coolant at all, your head gasket is shot.

Alternatively, if you have the tool, do a compression test.

teamXteg

a link for basic no starting problems.. might help

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/%2A%2A%2A-basics-no-start-diagnosis-101-%2A%2A%2A-1992733/

Former User

Is spark bright white at all 4 spark plugs? If so, see if you can get the engine to start with starting fluid. If this doesn't work, then check the mechanical timing and compression test the cylinders.

ex99civictears

Thanks for the replies everyone!

That was cool idea, jbpnoman. I wasn't able to rig that up, but I poked a plastic rod into each cylander and the end of the rod remained pretty dry for each.

I tried starter fluid, didn't work.

Did a dry compression test:
cylinder 1: 150
cylinder 2: 128
cylinder 3: 141
cylinder 4: 52

I tested cylander 4 twice, both readings the same. Engine sounded different with the gauge hooked up to cylinder 4.

So, very low compression on cylinder 4.

Does this mean that my head gasket and/or cylinder head is probably screwed? Should I continue diagnosis?

This is a D16Y8. Is the engine not worth trying to repair at this point? Reading past threads here it sounds like the engine might have other unknown damage from overheating, so even if fixing the head and gasket, might still have serious problems. Opinions seemed to vary though.

I found someone locally with a D15Z1 who might swap it in for cheap, with a manual conversion. My budget is limited here. Seems like the way to go, but what do you all think?

pityocamptes

Did you perform, the test at WOT with all plugs removed? Did you do a wet test at WOT with all plugs removed?

pityocamptes

Double check your numbers. I can tell you from experience that a cylinder that has lost compression will make your vehicle run rough...

ex99civictears

Didn't check timing, no wet test. All plugs and spark plug wires removed.

Former User

Test done at WOT?

Cylinders 2 is also a little low, though clearly cyl 4 is the worst.

Do a leakdown test to see where cyl4 is losing compression.

pityocamptes

WOT = wide open throttle. You basically have to open the throttle all the way while cranking over...

Former User

pityocamptes

Run the test again dry at WOT. Post numbers.

Run it again by squirting oil into each cylinder and at WOT. Post numbers.

If the numbers go up on a wet test chances are you have worn out rings...

If not could be a burnt valve or god forbid a cracked or warped head. At which point I'd do a leak down... you could always pull the valve cover and make sure your valve train is moving smoothly and nothing is binding or valves are hung up...


Also use some starting fluid to see if it will at least start... as well as checking timing. At least you can start to eliminate simple things. Pulling major $hit apart is no fun, so eliminate the easy stuff first - could save you some money and time...

Former User

This^ should be done before you repeat the compression test.

ex99civictears

God I'm stupid. Wide open throttle. I'll try again, dry and wet. Thank you both