matrinox104

ok... so I've been asking anyone with a brain.... and I cant figure it out..

i've got a 99 civic with 99 crv b20 bottom... 99si b16 top

car doesn't start. not getting spark at the coil. its a new coil.
I get blinks at the positive and negative terminal of the coil.


went to autozone, they tested my ICM... they say its good. new battery new cap and rotor.
it cranks hella hard, and I can hear the fuel pump kick on.
the car sat in the winter without a hood on. (the 1st snowstorm blew the car cover off, I was outta town)

I got it push started 3 weeks ago down a hill. no problem. (sat in rain for 2 days at the police impound lot)

and last week, I dropped a new battery in it, and it started just fine. on the first turn.

but now? nothing.

I sprayed "wire dryer" in the distributor after I was told it could be water in the distributor.... I let it dry for over an hour and tried to start it. I had a hair dryer on it and a fan trying to accelerate the drying process, but it was an oil based "wire dryer" and I think I tried starting it when it wasn't fully dry.
I went to autozone today to shoot the ****, and a guy told me to check the back of the distributor for corrosion...







I am NOT getting symptoms of the car dying while its driving.
But it was always needing a jump start because I had water in the back with subs and amps. the water was in the boot.. Had a window that wasn't sealed.
If I turned the car off, it needed a jump start. And I have a new alternator in it.

Any help at all would be amazing.
Thanks for reading

SpeedRacerEX-R

Do you know anyone with a distributor you can borrow to see if that's the problem?

matrinox104

no sir. not much of a Honda scene in southern Indiana.


I noticed corrison on the wires positive and negative. But I cleaned them off.


Also, I believe I didn't do the positive and negative test correctly on the coil.


but, it push started in the rain when it was wet 3 weeks ago.
and it fired up no problem one week ago when I dropped a new battery in it.

Former User

Advanced Ignition Troubleshooting

matrinox104

primary coil 01.4 resistance. secondary coil resistance is "1 ." so bad numbers?


I had autozone test the ICM, they said its good. Besides, I've never had symptoms of stalling while driving. Car would always turn right back on after I turned it off. (just needed a jump)


Hopefully I will be able to make a video on sunday. I can't express how much I appreciate all advice. Never seen that article before RonJ@HT, thank you very much.


Whats the next step I should take?

Former User

Buy a new coil.

matrinox104

that is the new coil.


I just put in and tested my old coil.


01.5 primary


and "1 ." secondary.


I am using the 200ohm setting on my harbor freight multimeter. the lowest setting available.

Former User

Post pictures showing you do the tests and your multimeter setting.

matrinox104

Former User

With the meter set at the 200 Ohm scale shown in your first picture, touch the two meter probes together. What's the reading?

For the secondary coil reading, set the meter to the 20K Ohm scale. What's the reading now?

matrinox104

at 200ohm it reads 00.8 when I touch tips on the multimeter


at 20ohm, it reads 16.51 for the secondary coil test.

Former User

This^ is the internal resistance of your meter. Therefore, the Ohm reading for the primary coil is:

1.4 or 1.5 Ohms - 0.8 Ohms = 0.6-0.7 Ohms

This reading is within spec.


You must mean "at 20K Ohms".

16.5K Ohms is also within spec.

matrinox104

yessur.


furthermore, this test was done on the "old" coil. My new coil has the exact same reading.




Any ideas for what I should be looking for?


what is my next diagnostic step?


PLease and thank you very much RonJ@ht... you are the only person who seems to know what they are talking about. I desperately need to get this car on the road.

Former User

So at this point, there's no spark an any of the 4 plugs?

If so, do the coil and ICM Blk/Yel wires get battery voltage with the key in ON(II)?

matrinox104

yessur.
how in the world would i get spark at the plugs if im not getting it at the coil




the car is set to on2 (right before crank)


the ignition coil reads 12.28


and the black/yellow wire reads 12.48


the setting on my multimeter is DCV 20


i am assuming in the "advancded trouble shooting guide" that GND is ground.


next step sir?

Former User

How are you testing for spark at the coil? Is the spark problem currently intermittent or has the car been dead in the water for a while?

Have you done all of the input tests?

Have you checked the timing belt?

matrinox104

testing for spark at the coil by using a screw driver and grounding it to my crossover/sway bar in the engine bay.

This is a new issue, no spark consistently.
timing belt looks great, no teeth offset.

Former User

Do the input tests.

matrinox104

Did the imput tests everything was normal.

replaced the ICM as per instructions. there was hardly any thermal compound on it. and it was dry. was thoroughly generous with new application and made sure of rewiring new icm.

no spark at the coil still with screw driver test&assistant. no spark when distributor cap is tightly on.

( next step?

Former User

Post all voltage readings and Ohm test results of Yel/Grn wire.

Triple check for stripped or snapped timing belt.

matrinox104

can you better explain step 5? just to make sure I am doing it correctly?
200ohms, touch the negative to ? and the positive to ?


im guessing between the yel/grn wire and the corresponding tab on the ICM?
and then what?


just to make sure im taking the correct measurement, please and thank you

Former User

Unplug OBD2b ECU connector B (pin B13) and OBD2b distributor connector (pin 1).

Test for continuity between pin 13 and pin 1.

Then test for a short (continuity to body ground from either pin, if there's continuity in first test).

matrinox104

layman's terms please. I do not have a diagnostic manual in front of me. what color wire do I test? I have no idea which is pin 13 or pin 1.

Former User

I couldn't possibly tell you with any confidence what color wire you should test because I have no clue what wire harnesses and ECU are installed in your Frankenstein engine bay.

The information I posted is for a stock 99 Civic.

tony_2018

google obd2b ecu pinouts than locate the wire that is needed in step 5.