akremer01

Whatsup everybody?!

I've got a 97 honda civic ex. I'm in Minnesota so it's a little chilly right now. I installed a new battery yesterday, before that I had a almost 4 year old battery that didn't have the cca needed for the -50 degree wind chill we had a few weeks ago. On that cold day I had to much faith in it and I killed it trying to start. Got a jump on it and eventually it started. 3 days ago I was driving home, the engine was fully warmed so I turned on the defroster and it seemed like there was a drop in electric power. I noticed the battery light on my dash was on, went on and off a few times then just stayed on. Tested the battery when I 1st saw the light and it was around 12.6. It must of been around this time I wasn't getting any charge back in the battery. Drove around 7 miles to work. Tested and found slightly lower voltage. Got a jump start at work because I new the battery was weak and about 2-3 miles down the road it died on me. Cleaned the battery connectors and terminals and installed a new battery. Battery dash light still on. pushed in and wiggled plug to alternator, checked connections and wiring, nothing obvious. Checked fuse 15, its good. Are there common places where wiring can be an issue on this model? My guess is it's either the Electrical Load Detector (which I have yet to find replacement) or the Alternator. Anybody know what I should do? Thanks

mk378

Check that the alternator belt is tight and the alternator actually spins when the engine is running.

Most likely this problem is the alternator itself, though the wires involved in the fuse 15 problem can cause trouble without the fuse blowing.

akremer01

It's tight and spinning. I'll inspect and test the wiring involved in fuse 15. Just to rule it out since I've already pulled out the ELD, do you know how to test it? Thanks

mk378

The ELD would not cause this. The battery light is driven by a self-check circuit inside the alternator. Battery light on results from:
Alternator shaft not turning.
Faulty alternator.
Shorted wiring.

akremer01

Ok. I'll put the ELD back, check the wiring, and if everything checks out I'll be removing the alternator. Hey, thanks alot!!!

akremer01

I tested the alternator plug to the negative battery wire and all had continuity accept the white with green stripe. Tested wht-grn from alternator plug end to computer plug end and it had continuity. However, the computer is rusted and corroded on the bottom left corner. I opened it up and took a look but as as far as the circuit board goes it looked good. Also I did a diode test on the alternator and it passed. Anybody know the next step in this troubleshoot?

akremer01

Is the wht/grn wire supposed to have continuity from the alternator plug to the battery negative wire?

akremer01

Reinstalled the ecu and did a full field test on the alternator, it failed. Opened it up and so far it looks like the capacitor in it is whats faulty. I'm gonna give it some charge and test it. Hopefully my new alternator arrives soon.

akremer01

Put the new alternator in the other day and its been running great.