just_hatched

lately the car has had a rough idle on start ups after the car warms up it goes away. sometimes you have to pump the gas a little to get it to start or it will stall out. but today driving to work started up driving fine then the car wouldn't accelerate past 40 with the pedal all the floor at first i thought it was the spark plugs/spark wires but its still doing it even after i changed them. could it be the fuel pump or something?

Former User

Any CEL codes? Did you also check the cap and rotor?

just_hatched

i changed the cap and rotor no cel codes if i pump the gas pedal it will start then i have to hold the gas all the way to the floor to get it to run at very low rpm then as soon as i let off it dies. i disconnected the fuel line to see if it would prime and it did

Former User

Does the CEL work?

Is there bright white spark at all four plugs?

Have you checked the mechanical and ignition timings?

just_hatched

when i turn the ignition on the cel comes on for two seconds then goes off it is a chipped ecu so im not sure. i cant check the spark as of now cause i have no one to start the car for me while i look for the spark. and i dont know how to check for mechanical and ignition timings

just_hatched

so i looked at the timing belt and there are some teeth missing. Is my motor ruined? i pulled the valve cover and everything looked ok

Former User

Install a new (properly timed) timing belt and then compression test the cylinders.

just_hatched

since its a ls/vtec do i have to retard or advance the timing

Former User

There's only one way to install the timing belt: Perfectly synchronize the cam and crank at TDC1. For example, this is what a properly timed B16a2 engine looks like:

just_hatched

so the compression test is the only way to find out if the motors gone after the timing belt install

Former User

It's the best way.

just_hatched

FML

Former User

Engine damage does not always occur after the timing belt slips or snaps. Let's hope your engine falls into this lucky group.