EJ8 D15Y8

Thanks for all the answers Builthatch.
Heres my reasoning for asking about the y7 head.
I blew my last motor due to a bad headgasket, hydrlocked, kaboom. Ok who cares.

I picked up a b7 block for 15 bucks and a y7 head free. 10:1 comp. Not too shabby. Everyone is telling me this setup is not going to do anything, but I cant see why not.

I plan on a delta or Exospeed cam 1st, I have all the bolt ons already, plus z6 i/m and b16 tb.

By next year I plan to have a set of vx rods with y8 pistons in the b7 block. 12:1 comp, should work well with the cam.

You see power coming out of this daily driver ?

My only downfall is the weak STOCK b7 and z1 rods. I see that you made your power @8200, and from personal experience z6 and y8 rods have not been up to the task of 8k daily driving. I ended up with spun bearings left and right. I cant be making power beyond 7600 est because I will risk BREAKING my motor again.

Sorry to get so off topic. Heres my 2 cents to the thread. Learn how to drive, dont complain that your car is slow if you dont drive it correctly.

menkio

just open up the head a bit, and a y8 hg.. bigger tb, b series i would guess 130 could'nt be out of range with that comp and cam, ohh and of course y8 intake port matched as well...

AgentJam

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ8 D15Y8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

My only downfall is the weak STOCK b7 and z1 rods. I see that you made your power @8200, and from personal experience z6 and y8 rods have not been up to the task of 8k daily driving. I ended up with spun bearings left and right. I cant be making power beyond 7600 est because I will risk BREAKING my motor again.

Sorry to get so off topic. Heres my 2 cents to the thread. Learn how to drive, dont complain that your car is slow if you dont drive it correctly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Get the bottom end completely balanced and use ARP rod bolts (make sure you get the crank end "re-rounded" as well). This is the best protection against spun bearings in addition to synthetic oil changed regularly.

Vince

builthatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AgentJam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Get the bottom end completely balanced and use ARP rod bolts (make sure you get the crank end "re-rounded" as well). This is the best protection against spun bearings in addition to synthetic oil changed regularly.

Vince</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, balancing and true blueprinting is severly important, especially when you approach 8-8.5K...

builthatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ8 D15Y8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for all the answers Builthatch.
Heres my reasoning for asking about the y7 head.
I blew my last motor due to a bad headgasket, hydrlocked, kaboom. Ok who cares.

I picked up a b7 block for 15 bucks and a y7 head free. 10:1 comp. Not too shabby. Everyone is telling me this setup is not going to do anything, but I cant see why not.

I plan on a delta or Exospeed cam 1st, I have all the bolt ons already, plus z6 i/m and b16 tb.

By next year I plan to have a set of vx rods with y8 pistons in the b7 block. 12:1 comp, should work well with the cam.

You see power coming out of this daily driver ?

My only downfall is the weak STOCK b7 and z1 rods. I see that you made your power @8200, and from personal experience z6 and y8 rods have not been up to the task of 8k daily driving. I ended up with spun bearings left and right. I cant be making power beyond 7600 est because I will risk BREAKING my motor again.

Sorry to get so off topic. Heres my 2 cents to the thread. Learn how to drive, dont complain that your car is slow if you dont drive it correctly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
@ 10:1, I think you can expect maybe 115-120 whp if it's tuned properly...not too bad if you consider what either of those motors (the y7 and the b7) make atw stock...****- bone stock y7 puts down 89 whp, b7 like 85...

Regarding rod strength- you are correct about the d15 rods, however...the d16 rods need a few things to last daily visits above 8K-

-blueprinted bearings and everything balanced (including a healthy oil pump, not some 150k mile example that you have laying around...spec that **** out and make sure it's right!)

-no detonation

-upgraded rod bolts (I, however, have not used them...ever...and had no probs)

Something I am considering is building a JDM d15...and seeing what kind of power I can make NA...the build would be similar to my d16, but based off of a d15 bottom end. I want to get to the bottom of the "weak rod" theories that are scripture regarding the d15.

builthatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by builthatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah, balancing and true blueprinting is severly important, especially when you approach 8-8.5K...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

OK, just to clarify about what I mean w/ the phrase "true blueprinting"-

-not just looking at colors and getting the bearing to match...actually check the clearances and make sure they correct and as close to possible across the board, not just somewhere within spec and matching in color-

-balance everything....

-check stuff like journals for ovalling, micropolish journals, chamfer holes, etc etc...files sharp edges where they shouldn't be (as to raise a weak spot)...the list goes on and on

EJ8 D15Y8

From whats being said, y7 and y8 heads have identical ports. Which leaves the same amount of potential to the y7 PLUS less valvetrain weight. Thats my upside to using the y7 head.

As for my current block, it will not be re used. It had 150k on it, and it will just be temp. I plan to find a d15b block or another b7 block with vx(z1) rods and the y8 pistons as mentioned before. I MIGHT send the rods, pistons and crank to exospeed to get balanced and get arp bolts. But if all this work still ends up with another spun bearing. Ill kill someone.

My current setup is (Motor not in car yet, getting frame work done).. Stock y7 head, Stock b7 block, y8/z6 HG, Z6 I/M ported for 60 mm t/b, Dynatech header, Intake, Straight pipe, Cam gear, obd2-1 conv and chipped ecu. Im hoping for at LEAST 115 whp.

With the new FACT that y7 injectors are smaller than the typical 240/235 cc honda style, this shows that stock y7's would benefit from any 240cc injectors.

A gave a friend of mine with a y7 motor my y8 injectors, car ran great, and stronger.

I think my simple stock setup wil run strong, and run way stronger with just a cam. Im thinking just the cam setup will be fullfilling. If not the bottom end build will come for the raised comp.

Built Hatch, thanks for all the help.
Thanks to all else who contributed.

eg6infinite

that's some good **** spade. makes me want my d16z back. heh.

KarbinFourteen

what is difference bewteen aluminum and steel forks in tranny?

builthatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KarbinFourteen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is difference bewteen aluminum and steel forks in tranny?</TD></TR></TABLE>the steel units are more resistent to damage, ie bending...

robtec

jdmsiR20

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AgentJam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Can you guys give some more info on the final drives? Links?

Are they OK for daily driving or only track use...My car will be daily driven on pump gas but since i have my tranny out i may as well consider

Vince</TD></TR></TABLE>

more info please

robtec

check here:

http://www.geocities.com/robtec_2/d16_425.html

spyderracing

Damn this thread makes me wanna go out and find a d16z6 or a d15b to build this winter for a little N/A fun. Turbo for the d15b in my car this spring though .

robtec

for a great thread

DelsoldS

are you talking 88-89 ls rods or 90+ ls rods?

Ej1coupeman

Great post. Learned something new.

Nyceguy17

So, if the EX head is needed, and the EX tranny is better, why not just buy an EX motor swap? Would that not work well?

Spade

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nyceguy17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So, if the EX head is needed, and the EX tranny is better, why not just buy an EX motor swap? Would that not work well?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup. then you'll have an extra block to build up.
However, if you can, I'd go with the Z6 head. The ports are much better.

Nyceguy17

Could a person just get the motor, tranny, and ECu/wiring harness? Would 00 DX hatch axles and wahtnot link up?

jdmsiR20

just thought i'd give in my two cents.... after all i've praised my single cam forever until it wrapped itself around a telephone pole.

one of the single most effective upgrades for my jdm d15b was the

RPT proggy from user eg6ajk.... http://www.hyperducktuning.com.... [server is down i will replace later]

a claimed TEN WHP, with the dyno graph. pick up a socketed ecu, drop the chip in. better yet, buy the entire thing from him.... my d15b ****** ripped, taking out my cousin's b16 EF all day long.

thats it folks, pm me if you have trouble... i'll be in the integra section from now on

sheissrx

Anyone have info on d-series spark and cam timing? I've heard from people with experience that Honda really dumbed the d-series. Like, advancing timing one tooth, and advancing ignition all the way (pivot) will boost power a significant amount. Is this statement true?

mp5o

nice

GUNNER666

i read some ofthe pages so far they were great

-**one question though; i have a d15b7, and i was reading the y8 inae manifold is better because its bigger. my question is: if i get the TB and intake manifold together will it bolt on properly or will i need to make and changes????

sorry if this has already been iasked i just dont have the energy to read 19 pages of text

acurone

bump