Thomas Kalita

I have a 2012 civic EX-L, and the rear passenger side window stopped working. It stopped working realtivly recently, and doesn't work from either drivers side or passengers side. I checked if power was coming through to the door's switch, and it was. Also when I attempted to activate it, and faint click was audible from what I assume to be the motor.
What must I do in order to further troubleshoot/fix this issue?

Thanks

tech8

You can test the motor directly. Gently pry the rear right window switch up and disconnect the gray 5P harness connector.

To test if window/motor goes down:
Apply 12 volt power (+) to terminal no. 1 cavity (blu wire)
Apply chassis ground (-) to terminal no. 4 cavity (Wht wire)

To test if window/motor goes up:
Apply chassis ground (-) to terminal no. 1 cavity (blu wire)
Apply 12 volt power (+) to terminal no. 4 cavity (Wht wire)

Thomas Kalita

Ok so I did that, and the window did not go down, and when I tested the white wire with a multi meter, it wasn't a good ground. I cut some sheilding off the white, and added ground from the chassis, and the wire got hot. Then it stopped, and I checked the fuse and it burnt out, and it was replaced earlier this week. My guess is I need a new motor, and just hook up a new ground. Or am I wrong?

tech8

The white wire is not a ground wire by itself. The white and blue wire go directly to the motor from the switch. When power (+) and ground (-) are switched between the white wire and blue wire, the motor goes in the opposite direction.

With the switch disconnected, the white wire shouldn't get hot.

Did you plug the switch back in, and then add ground from the chassis to the white wire? If you did, you should not have done that. Also, there is no need to strip insulation from the wire, you can back-probe to test wires.

tech8

Backprobing is either using a backprobe set or using a thin needle or something and making contact with the metal terminal of the connector without piercing the wire in the back of the still connected connector. Care must be taken to ensure that the wiring does not get damaged. You can use something like a T pin, available at Walmart, etc., and backprobe. These pictures are just to give a picture of the concept of backprobing without piercing any wires.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/foru...%5D-t-pins-jpg

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/foru...back-probe-jpg

Thomas Kalita

Ok I see that I may have said things too vaguely, or am Miss understanding what you said, so I'll say exactly what I did. I disconnected the switch, and used the red wire wire for 12v power (at the time only thing I could really use, and found power there using multimeter). What I did then was make a jumper from the red wire to the blue wire. I then put white to the chassis. I put all these cables into the front of the connector (opposite of the cables going in). Nothing happened, so I tested to see if white really was ground, and it didn't show up as such. So I also attempted to make it work by plugging the switch back in, then giving it a better ground by stripping part of the white wire and connecting it to the chassis. Then used both driver side, and it's own door, and blew a fuse. I'll be honest here, this wasn't all me, and was mostly my grandpa, whose been a mechanic a large part of his life doing this. He told me the motor was probably broken, and the ground has been compromised. But he can most definitely be wrong, so I hope this cleared up what was done, and if this is proof that the motor is dead or not.

Thanks

tech8

The motor is probably bad.

The ground may not have been compromised. If power was applied to the white wire by the window switch at the same time you applied ground to the same white wire, then a short circuit occurred, thus the fuse got blown.

Thomas Kalita

Alright thank you, I guess I'll go and buy a motor and come back here once I've installed it, thank you for all the help.

Thomas Kalita

So I replaced the motor, and everything's works as it should. Thank you for your help.

tech8

Good to hear. You're welcome.