brokemechanic

so im scratching my head over this one and i made an account to see if anyone knows what i should do here. the left, right, and center brake lights do not come on when the pedal is depressed. i first noticed this a few months ago when my brother was driving the car and i saw that the right side brake light wasn't coming on. a few days later i went to check the brake lights and found that none of them worked. i started with the obvious and replaced all three bulbs. after that didn't work i checked the fuse, even without visual inspection i knew it wasn't the fuse because the horn still works. the sockets have continuity as do the plugs and the switch itself. im at a loss as to where to look next.

tech8

1. Disconnect the connector for the brake switch. Then insert a spare wire or small paper clip in cavity terminal no. 1 and terminal no. 2 of the harness connector.




Do the brake lights work like this?

• If yes, then the brake switch may be faulty.
• If no, then use a multi-meter/voltmeter to measure the voltage at cavity terminal no. 1 (Wht/Grn wire - white color wire with green strip running through it).

If there is power at cavity terminal no. 1, leave the jumper as is, and measure voltage at the Wht/Blk wire at the individual brake light sockets.

If there is power at the individual brake light socket Wht/Blk wires, then the cause may be due to the ground wires.

Ground wires are from G601.

brokemechanic

thank you very much ill check these and see if it fixes the problem.

brokemechanic

so ive narrowed it down to the ground but after cleaning and reinstalling the ground the lights still aren't coming on. is there a way for me to test the connection to the ground itself?

tech8

Test the black ground wire on the each individual bulb socket connectors for continuity to ground.

To test for continuity to ground.

1. Set to either the "ohms" or the setting it will beep when you hold the two leads together.
2. Touch one end of the meter's lead to the black wire cavity terminal of the socket connector; and the meter's other lead to chassis ground. Chassis ground can be; but, does not have to be the G601 ground bolt.

• If your meter beeps, it means you have continuity.
• If it is on ohms scale, you will have continuity when it reads close to 0 ohms.
• If it doesn't beep , shows OL (open line) or a 1 (infinity ohms); it means you don't have continuity.

brokemechanic

I tested the ground leads to the trunk latch (with the leads bolted in) and there’s continuity. I also tested the black lead to the bulb and it has continuity. Any guess as to what’s going on here? Because it doesn’t seem to be the ground

tech8

1. Are you touching one of the meter's lead to the bulb socket's black wire terminal, and other meter's lead to ground to test continuity?

2. Also, for the previous test of power, was a measurement of the voltage done? It should approximate 12 volts. -- Not just a test with a test light.