phunhaus

Thanks, I took Ryan's advice and shaved down the brake booster check valve to cover it with heat shrink. It cleaned up nicely!

The radiator is from Wizard Cooling ( www.wizardcooling.com ) made to my specs. Basically a DC2 core with DC2 inlet outlets (no fan mounting bungs) but the new neck/cap housing. I asked them to do that since the radiator overflow/bracket is on the left side of the radiator as well as give a nod to a Feel's CRX I fell in love with in Tokyo.

Here's the inspiration for the radiator cap neck:



They did a great job with the radiator and it's only slightly more expensive than going with an off-the-shelf radiator like a Fluidyne/Koyo.

Chef Andre

iTrader: (1)

Hey phunaus what throttle cabble are you using?

siblues

iTrader: (1)

Its like three pages back I believe I dont remember or I would tell you.

phunhaus

It's a stock 1992 Civic Si throttle cable on an OBD0 B16 throttle body with a GSR trottle cable bracket, throttle wheel, and throttle wheel spring.

Mr. Em1

iTrader: (1)

thats the kind of answer that everyone needs to read. thank you sir

E.Honda

If it were mine.

The hole where the original intake was would have to be filled or something done with it. It well looks like a big hole. Maybe you could put something custom there. Maybe a duct or something bringing air in if that is why you left it

What is the badge on the rad support?

A ceramic coated header.

The valve cover looks great except the empty holes. I have this thing about threaded bolt holes in a bay with nothing in them. It just makes it look as if something is missing. I am guilty of this on my own valve cover and did not have this opinion until I noticed it on my own build. I plan to rid mine of the same holes.

Last but not least the benen decal on the strut bar. The one on the fuel rail is enough benen advertising in such a confined space.


Regardless it looks really nice. I would like to see a close up of the throttle cable at the the throttle body. I have a RHD and am using an integra cable insead of the mile long oem one.

E.Honda

Those hardware store bolts on the strut brace gotta go. They are huge and stand out like a sore thumb. JMHO.

Small thing like rotating the hose clamps where you can't see the head and excess clamp is an ez way to help tidy up the bay a bit.


Not feeling the overflow hose and tank. Maybe relocate it or powdercoat it so it don't stand out.

PLEASE DON'T GET ME WRONG....I AM NOT HATING ON ANYONES BAY. Trying to offer CONSTRUCTIVE criticism.

Ok I am done....Don't want the haters to get fired up.


Have a great day everyone.

E.Honda

phunhaus

Thanks, E. Honda. I appreciate the honest and constructive opinion.

I thought the hole would be better than blocking it off because of the filter hovering above it. I realised later on thebrake ducts would eliminate running a J's duct or something similar. You're right. It does look out of place and in retrospect I wish I would have known I was doing brake ducts earlier on.

The badge on the core support is the SpoonCertification badge.

Ceramic coated headers aren't my thing. Luckily the color is very close to the hardware on the upper control arms, shocks, mount bolts, cam gears, etc. I knew it was going to be some eeded color in a very two-tone limited bay. Before I started the car and the header was silver it seemed without character. Same thing with the stut bar. I tried it naked, with a silver badge, and then decided the black badge would be the way to go.

Here's the bay before it was completed. Notice the silver badge and the still silver header.

Thateguhate

iTrader: (2)

None taken. I see where your coming from... However since the bar didnt come with the bolts, I had to expand the holes on the bar a bit more to opt for these bolts im using. Yeah I could have gone a bit smaller but I guess whats done is done now.. I drilled for them so theres no turning back now. Maybe I could cap them off though! like using some sort of black rubber plug etc..

and as for the reservoir, I didnt really plan on doing it this way.. My OEM reservoir clip pretty much cracked, causing it to fall against the header while i was driving.. After that I said screw it and just did this, it costed me about $30 and it seems to be working.

I might try something with it later I just dont know where the hell to run this thing since its oddly shaped and bulky. (its intended to go in a 350z)

BoostinEJ1

I'm not a fan of the whole shaved crap and what not but that silver coupe looks fantastic.

outtacontrolsol

Awesome Awesome Awesome thread! I used the fuse box relocation write-up to take my underhood fuse box and put it under dash. It is in the footwell, but not in the way, tucked up high against the foot heater.
I did this so I can put a gutted out fuse box in the stock location and mount my fuel and nitrous solenoids and lines into it, so I am still stealth, but NHRA/IHRA legal. Pics to come

SUBSCRIBED!!!

onepuff

So what should theoretically happen when you pressurize the booster?

TheSauceSpot

that silver bay is very clean. nice work man.

heres a progress pic on my bay...

CBEengineering

be careful when u tighten down the strut and uca nuts. there was a little discussion about this before. I noticed (after repainting my strut towers lol) that if you use a washer. look at the washer. one side will be flat, the other side will be a little convex. like ( if you put the curved side down when u tighten it it wont crack the paint. thats why bucky paints them with the nuts on there cause theres no paint under them to crack.

sintype

that is sick!

siblues

iTrader: (1)

I wonder if you let the paint cure for a while if it will have the same issues with chipping.The oem paint seems to hold up just fine.

The color on that bay is amazing very nice job

CBEengineering

my paint was dry for two weeks. it seems that the curing or the hardness of the paint is what makes it chip.

most people think that the thicker the paint the tougher it is. i had to paint my filler panel twice and the paint was so thick that it just chipped right off first time it got hit. but the thin factory paint stays durable for a while. i dunno if anyone gets what im saying.

id actually put the nuts on while the paints still wet that would be cool but odds are you wouldnt have the struts/lcas that you were going to use on the car when it was finished, on there when its being painted

siblues

iTrader: (1)

I understand what you are saying.There has to be a way to get the best of both worlds.I am planning on having my car resprayed very soon and finishing up my tuck.I am just doing some research and what better place to do it than this thread

CBEengineering

the nylon washers arent a good idea either. id just use a steel washer and look at the convex. and u se a torque wrench and dont over torque.

Mr. Em1

iTrader: (1)

damn i like that color you sprayed on that bay, nice color

TheSauceSpot

Thanks guys... its hard to get a good picture of it, black and very shiny right now! That picture shows the flake very well. the whole car was re-done. now its time to put on all my new moldings, seals, etc.. it already got all new glass as well. time to tear it back apart, paint the suspension/rear subframe and start the building. Everything from the sunroof molding down to the gas tank straps are going to be brand new OEM.

TheSauceSpot

Too lazy to edit the other post...

heres a picture of it in primer... and then painted. in primer you can see the mild shaving better.. after paint/clear, its just too shiny.

csubucky19

factory paint doesnt chip because it doesnt have a clear on it.

CBEengineering

mine doesnt have any clear on it either. 2 coats of acrylic enamel. its the washers. ill get some pics

4DRmafia

Damn! that is dark but looks good at the same time!