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♠ Shaved, Tucked, Customized Engine Bays - Pics, Theory, Discussion ♠

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Old 07-18-2006, 03:57 PM
  #1  

EFSS153
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Default - Shaved, Tucked, Customized Engine Bays - Pics, Theory, Discussion -

This is an informational thread. We try to stay on topic and discuss anything engine bay related. This post has reference info at the bottom to make everyones life easier. If you have any info you'd like to contribute, feel free to post it, or PM me, and I'll add it.

Originally Posted by Pworld
Who cares if its polished, chrome, or gold, its a personal expression of the car builder, his canvas to paint his picture that he wants to paint. If its done tastefully, I'm all for it.
Originally Posted by sh!tsWEAK
::ChaseBays::
Originally Posted by sh!tsWEAK
For all your custom engine bay needs (wire tucks, brakelines, fuel setups, tuck harnesses)! --> http://www.hondamarketplace.co...70366


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[/quote]

Originally Posted by Rywire

<FONT COLOR="red">Rywire.com - G e t _ R y w i r e d .</FONT>

Look at this harness ive been working on



mockup




More mocking up...












Phew, all done... this harness is the hardest ive made as of yet...


Let me clear up some stuff for everyone.
The wire is milspec, its very expensive... I did the harness in a power/ground/signal setup, so thats why there is 3 colors. Its not hard at all to diagnose with a multimeter. All wires are new, and military grade. The pins are all new, and it took me a crazy long time to source them all... I really dont want to give any pins out, plus I have a limited supply.
Someone also asked me on another forum why I thought it was the hardest harness as of yet... if you havent made a harness all the way back to the ecu with all new wires, and expensive parts that you dont want to ruin, dont ask

People also asked where the back half is on this harness, I do have it made, but its not cut into the firewall yet, there will be pix soon. I leave that half in just zipties, so if changes ever need to be made, they can be made on that end.

If anyone ever looks at the wiring harness on a exotic race spec car, Porsche/ bmw
they will notice similar characteristics between the harnesses, thats the look I was going for... Some people are gunna say this is overkill, and it sure is, but this is what I do for a living, and excess is necessary.

-Ryan
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game over


Rywire



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<FONT COLOR="teal"><FONT SIZE="5">Reference Info:</FONT></FONT>


http://www.hondamarketplace.co...age=1

Originally Posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy-
<u>AN Lines and Fittings</u>
Originally Posted by LKSi
<U>AN Plumbing How To Videos</U>
Originally Posted by LKSi
I figured these videos would help some people...
(all thanks to anplumbing.com)
AN flaring-
http://www.anplumbing.com/PARKER_FLARING_TOOL.html

Cutting hose and attaching Swivel-Seal hose ends-
http://www.anplumbing.com/SWIV....html

And here is their info on AN threads
http://www.anplumbing.com/thread.html
Originally Posted by donut.
<U>Pic of Tucked Fuse Box</U>
Originally Posted by donut.

Dont mind the ecu wires

http://is.rely.net/1-2622-7819...A.jpg

Originally Posted by g2_teg_
<u>Guide to Tucking Brake Lines</u>
Originally Posted by g2_teg_
Originally Posted by Slappy
<U>Slappy on FLARE TOOLS</U>
Originally Posted by Slappy
Don't skimp out on good tools. Getting a cheap tool isn't worth the "possible "consequences later if they happen. Jesse(I_Hate_JDM) is right, the Rigid tool is very nice and well worth the money. It's pretty much dummy proof when making a flare.
Originally Posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy-
<U>TILTON</U>
Originally Posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy-
Originally Posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy-
<U>Titanium Bolts</U>
Originally Posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy-
Originally Posted by LKSi
<u>Wire Loom</u>
Originally Posted by LKSi

I'm gonna be using the braided loom from cableorganizer.com (http://cableorganizer.com/fray-resistant/#B) when I do my harness... and I just ordered my Odyssey PC680MJT!
Originally Posted by EF8kid
<U>WRITE UP: How to convert your fuel lines and ugly filter to Stainless -6AN hoses</U>
Originally Posted by EF8kid
Originally Posted by EF8kid
<u>Sandpaper</u>
Originally Posted by EF8kid

I tried alot of different kinds and my favorite was actually this 80 grit stuff from home depot. (to sand filler down) It kept its grit the longest. Its like whiteish with blueish dots somewhat.

After u get it shaped you sand it with 320 so theres no sanding scratches. I liked the home depot stuff best again.

Then for wetsanding primer i used 3m jobpack 600grit and it worked good. Then wetsanding the clear i used 1600 and 2000 3m jobpack.
Originally Posted by Slappy
You asked for it...........91631-SR3-000
Originally Posted by Slappy
I work @ Honda....if you need anything Matt, just hit me up on AIM.

Number 16

Originally Posted by MLRtime
<U>Removing ABS</U>
Originally Posted by MLRtime

That is what I did....and I used this link as a guide.
http://www.team-integra.net/fo...earch
Originally Posted by EF8kid
<u>Wire Loom/Sleeving</u>
Originally Posted by EF8kid

awesome! I love wires yay.

Actually, the link on page one is shitty. They dont offer enough sizes.

HEY EVERYONE, HERE'S WHERE I BUY MY HELLA KEWL SLEEVING AND HEATSHRINK FROM:

http://www.wirecare.com
Originally Posted by Stoich EG2
<u>Wire Loom/Sleeving</u>
Originally Posted by Stoich EG2
Originally Posted by Pandahatch
<u>Replacement Seam Sealer</u>
Originally Posted by Pandahatch

You should NEVER NEVER NEVER use a caulk gun style seam sealer, use the 2 part sealer, it is more durable and will last 10x's longer as it DOES NOT shrink. It is catalyzed to harden and the single part **** is not.
Originally Posted by hybridzOr
<U>Seam Sealer Replacement </U>
Originally Posted by hybridzOr

sem makes a good 2 part seam sealer.... part# 39337
Originally Posted by h22apwrdcivic
<u>Blocking the coolant ports pg 356 & 357</u>
Originally Posted by h22apwrdcivic



Originally Posted by Slappy
<U>Heater Core Plug</U>
Originally Posted by Slappy
Here ya go..............


#1 is 12208-PR3-000

#2 is 12209-PR3-000

Originally Posted by B16B_coupe
ps: i think you should add this to the front page. its the <u>fuse box wire hole cover</u>
Originally Posted by B16B_coupe
honda part number 91610-sf4-003 was on a ek.. might fit others.
Originally Posted by stillrockin18s
<u>Cheaper alternative the the PC-680</u> (Odyssey) dry cell battery
Originally Posted by stillrockin18s

http://www.gruberpower.com/gru...0.asp

$48.95

Works great, used this battery when I did my wire tuck, have been starting the car about 3 times a day for a the past month or so with no problems.

I posted this information a while back, just thought I would do a sort of review on it.
Originally Posted by stillrockin18s
<u>Cheaper alternative the the PC-680</u>
Originally Posted by stillrockin18s

Anyone ever use this battery or do you think this battery would be OK?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW

Planning on using it on my rarely driven show DA with a kill switch for storage.

Its between this or the odessy battery, this ones cheaper which would help since christmas is around the corner and I haven't started shopping yet, LOL!
Originally Posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy-
<u>Cheaper alternative the the PC-680</u>
Originally Posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy-

Check out their disclaimer...

"SPECIAL NOTE
This battery is much lower cost than a comparable brand that rhymes with "Modyssey"
We cannot tell you the brand, but you may figure it out.

Someone is unhappy with us selling our batteries...you may be also be
able to figure who that is as well.

This completely comparable battery is lower cost only because
it does not have a half a dozen margin hungry companies in the food chain
driving the cost to the consumer beyond reasonable levels.

You be the judge....pay more for a over-distributed brand, or get a replacement
with the same specifications and performance for 1/2 the price."

lol

I'd say give it a shot.
Originally Posted by White Smoke
<u>Brake Proportioning Valve Diagram.</u>
Originally Posted by White Smoke

<u>To answer future questions about this</u>....

I talked to Fast Brakes the other day and they said both chambers in the Honda master cylinder are the same size; (15/16) in my case. Therefore it does not matter which port on the MC goes to either input on the prop. valve. (The rear outputs still have to go the the rear, front to the fronts and input's to the MC.)

Originally Posted by White Smoke
Quick question, does it matter if the front output of the brake MC goes to the opisite input on the prop valve? Just like theoretically switching the front MC line to the back and the back to the front... Looking in the Helms to try and figure out now but figured I would ask.
Originally Posted by White Smoke

Thanks

OK, I'm thinking it does not matter so I am going to go off that... If someone knows otherwise PLEASE let me know asap so I dont wast my time bleading and all that for the bias to be off. Here is an image for reference. Just by looking at the desgin of the prop valve I am thinking it doesn't matter. http://www.we-todd-did-racing....e.jpg

Originally Posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy-
<U>Charcoal Canister</U>
Originally Posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy-

<FONT COLOR="red">Thanks to Dumpgears for sourcing these quotes/info.</FONT>

Quote, originally posted by NathanMorris »
when you guys are taking out the charcoal canister stuff on the firewall - how are you dealing with that? IE: what are you doing with the fuel vapors, how are you setting up the PCV vent, etc. As many details about this would be wonderful as I'm looking to get rid of that set of big ugly black boxes if possible.
Nathan



Quote, originally posted by JDMlyfestyle »
have mine Routing out the side of my car.. its attached the the Front passanger Lift point so that the vapors are not coming into the cabin


Quote, originally posted by not so JDM Dan »
when i converted my fuel lines to stainless steel under the car, the smallest hard line which is the vent tube for the charcoal canister i cut at the back of the car near the tank and i ran a rubber hose back along the trailing arm. all the vapors vent out behind the car
Originally Posted by Weak!EG
<U>Example of Braided Brake Lines</U>
Originally Posted by Weak!EG

<FONT COLOR="red">DONE MY CHASE MCMASTER (EF8kid)</FONT>

Originally Posted by EF8kid
<U>Example of Hard Brake Lines</U>
Originally Posted by EF8kid
Originally Posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy-
<U>Example of Hard Brake Lines</U>
Originally Posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy-



Originally Posted by Weak!EG
<U>BRAKE LINE TUCK WRITE UP</U>
Originally Posted by Weak!EG
I took the time to compile a small base of information for a general brake line tuck write up.

hopefully it will keep a lot of the same questions and confusion out of this thread.

link: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2103425

enjoy and if you have any suggestions please post.
Originally Posted by GarretCRX
<U>BRAKE LINE TUCK - NO LINES IN ENG BAY</U>
Originally Posted by GarretCRX
I think this is the location for an EF brake-line-tuck.


Originally Posted by 8520
<u>A ton of the factory honda service manuals.</u>
Originally Posted by 8520


Quick link for you guys. Found this website that has a ton of the factory honda service manuals including wiring diagrams etc. You do have to register for the site to download the manuals, but there is no charge whatsoever.

http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals
Originally Posted by OSK Automotive
<U>WIRE LOOM</U>
Originally Posted by OSK Automotive

http://www.waytekwire.com
http://www.delcity.net
Waytek Wire usually has lower minimum buying quantities on connectors so you're not stuck buying per hundred.

http://www.terminalsupplyco.com
They don't list their pricing on their site (which I know can be an inconvenience) but I know if you request a price quote and ask them to beat Del City or Waytek pricing they usually can. Sometimes there are minimum quantities for that pricing tho.

All 3 carry a wide variety of fittings/connectors/loom/shink tubing.
Originally Posted by MidwestSiR
<U>Battery Relocation</U>
Originally Posted by MidwestSiR
Originally Posted by Hawkze_2.3
<U>Pic of Battery/Fuse Box Relocation</U>
Originally Posted by Hawkze_2.3
Originally Posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy-
<U>Battery Relocation Thread</U>
Originally Posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy-
Originally Posted by Hayce
<u>HOLE IN FIREWALL FOR TUCK HARNESS</u>
Originally Posted by Hayce
QUOTE=JSPECSIR i may have missed this somewhere in the almost 500 pages, but does anybody have any pics of the firewall harness after is modded to exit in the center to go out under the hood, mainly inside of the car side of the firewall. and where is the best place to go out of the firewall if im keepin heat, right below the heater core hole maybe? thanks for any input and if i missed it please let me know what page it was on. /QUOTE

You didn't state which chassis, but heres my EK:

(no not finished wiring)



(no not finished hole)
Originally Posted by B16B_coupe

first you got the ac plug: part#91631-SR3-000
second this plug covers the stock engine harness hole/pass healight harness hole part #91610-sf4-003
pic


driver side plug part#90621-SE0-000
pic
Originally Posted by Cpt. xThread
I've found a cheaper place to buy the dress up bolts. Fastenal. The PN for M6x20mm [FHSCS] (10mm fender bolts, etc) bolt is M42550020A20000. They're priced at $31.83 per 100. The washers I used are 1133144. I believe I paid $7 for 100.
Originally Posted by Cpt. xThread
Here's a picture for reference. Ignore the old one. It was steel and rusted, so I replaced them with the SS bolts.


Originally Posted by Cpt. xThread
AC plug for DA9/DB2/DB1 Honda PN is 90851-SB2-000


Originally Posted by Cpt. xThread
https://www.masterdistributors...t.cfm has ECU pins, but minimum order quantity is $35 (which is 875 pins...)


Originally Posted by TehMan


Originally Posted by pheurton-skeurto
i found this info on the proportioning valves and codes for them:
Originally Posted by pheurton-skeurto

3030 - 9.4" front / drum rear
3035 - 9.4" front / larger drum rear
3040 - 9.4 front / 9.3" disk rear
4040 - 10.25" front / 9.3" disk rear
4035 - 10.25" front / larger drum rear
4030 - 9.4" front / 9.3" disk

it helped me to understand some...
[b][b][b]<FONT SIZE="4">Continued on next two posts...</FONT>




Modified by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy- at 12:58 PM 10/28/2008

Last edited by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy-; 09-23-2010 at 12:45 PM.
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Old 07-18-2006, 04:07 PM
  #2  
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Franklin, TN
Posts: 3,504
Default Re: - Shaved, Tucked, Customized Engine Bays - Pics, Theory, Discussion - (NAallTheWAY)

Post Edited by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy-

<FONT SIZE="6"><FONT COLOR="red">A HUGE thanks to Fresh '86 (fka Dumpgears) for indexing all of the information below!!!</FONT></FONT>

<u>Brake Lines, Fuel Lines, Clutch Line conversions</u>

<u>Converting Your Fuel Line/Hydro Clutch Line To Braided W/ Fittings</u>

pg20:
Originally Posted by hayce
Is there any write ups out there (like the very helpful fuel line threads ) for converting the hydro clutch line to braided w/ fittings?
Originally Posted by BoostedJeff
its easy...

(2) -3 to 10mm adapter
-3 line
me and dan did ours with a 3ft line and a 2ft -3 line, with a -3 union in between
Originally Posted by SPOON_BeIgHtEeNsEe
or PM Flamenco-T he sells the line and fittings for 75 shipped .... line is 72" long

Also, a VERY resourceful thread for this for those who like pictures:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1545386
Page 63
Originally Posted by phresh_5
Fuel system wire harness installed:




Brake lines behind firewall (completed). Rear lines are SS untill they go behind the subframe, then they go back to hard lines all the way back. All other lines are SS.


Page 66
Originally Posted by JDMorgan
all brake/clutch lines are 3/16" line with m10x1.0 fittings, if you want to run an fittings run -3 tube sleeves/nuts. the only brake line not m10x1.0 is the front fitting on an abs master cylinder is actually m12x1.5. it still uses 3/16" line tho.
Page 88
Originally Posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy-

I planned on using stainless hardline, but I didn't want to spend a ton of money on the flare tool. Then I decided I didn't like the look of the rear hardlines being inside the car (since the int is stripped) so I decided after I get it dipped I'll redo them with braided.

I have also heard about leakage problems. That's usually caused by the flare being done wrong: either the wrong degree of flare, or the end of the flare cracking do to overflaredness.

I said overflaredness.
[quote=SHG_EasyE]some updated pics of mine....
http://i159.photobucket.com/al...8.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/al...3.jpg
Originally Posted by SHG_EasyE
since so many ppl have asked already this is the list of parts i used off summit racing.

(substitute one -6an hose end for a 45 deg one)
EAR-230206ERL Fuel Filter, Inline Mount, Blue, 85 Microns, -6 AN Male Inlet/Outlet, 1
EAR-581805ERL Fitting, Tube Nut, -5 AN, Aluminum, Blue, Pair, 1
EAR-581905ERL Fitting, Adapter, Tube Sleeve -5 AN, Aluminum, Blue, Pair, 1
EAR-991907ERL Fitting, Union Reducer, Male -6 AN to Male -5 AN, Male, Aluminum, Blue, 1
EAR-991945ERL Fitting, Carburetor Inlet, -6 AN Male to 12mm x 1.25 Male, Aluminum, Blue, 1
SUM-220690 Fitting, Hose End, Straight, -6 AN Hose to Female -6 AN, Aluminum, Red/Blue Anodized, 4
SUM-G1001 Hose, Braided Stainless Steel, -6 AN, 18 in. Length, 2

whole setup cost a little under 100 bucks including the new filter
Originally Posted by g2_teg_
http://i23.photobucket.com/alb...1.jpg

where in the world can i get those banjo bolts from? the ones i got from summit were too long.
Originally Posted by 1 Fly SI
http://www.markwilliams.com/br...D=194

Go to the bottom.

Also, Russell sells them
<u>Tucking Your Brake Lines</u>

Page 25
Originally Posted by RotiEatter
I want to relocate the brake lines, but I'm scared of messing with them... haha.

Anyone have good pictures of how they relocated their brake lines and what kinds of lines they used? Thanks.
Originally Posted by EF8kid
Go look at the page before this for pics of mine. They sell all differents lengths of line @ your auto parts store and theyre like 5 bucks a peice. 3/16th size line for japanese/metric/import etc...I bent them with my hands!
Page 62
Originally Posted by kidkombo
dood the hardlines will kink when you re route them....they are already bent in intricate ways, there is no way in hell you can do a clean tuck behind the firewall...so yes i think its a stupid question as well lol all you need is a tubing bender, tube nuts and sleeves and a ton of reverse flare -3 fittings to -3male...and you will be set for life!
Originally Posted by stillrockin18s
Where can I pick up some metal brake lines and fittings online so I can tuck my portioning valve and brake lines. I prefer just straight pieces, my boy has a good bender and flaring tool.

Also can the portioning valve be mounted on its side? I am thinking of tucking them under the wiper cowl.
Originally Posted by hondaZvic
the metal lines and fittings can be picked up at your local autozone or whatever autoparts store you have, the lines come in rolls, and you can buy it by the foot or however much you need. at least here anyway.
Originally Posted by spriggan

It's a flux capacitor
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....x.jpg

Here you go
<u>[H]Painting, Applying Filler, Welding[/H]</u>

<u>Shaving/Painting Your Engine Bay</u>

Page 24
Originally Posted by JDMorgan
usc icing is an example of a filler you can use. all polyester fillers are pretty much the same, it comes down to what they sell at your local auto parts store. i use evercoat products.
Originally Posted by fventura03
do you (or anyone else) recommend using this on the shock towers and to cover small bolt holes in the engine bay? i'm trying to make my engine bay as clean as possible, but i dont want it to start cracking in a couple of years...
Originally Posted by nerdsports
you need to weld the holes shut first. then grind the weld down.
the icing is just a thin layer over the metal surface to cover the imperfections and leave a smooth flowing finish.
Originally Posted by EF8kid
bondo sucks, i used Evercoat Metal Glaze.
Originally Posted by I_HATE_JDM
evercoat rage extreme filler is your friend.
Originally Posted by JDMorgan
i never use normal fillers anymore. if i absolutely have to use a bunch of filler i use evercoat duraglass, but i like the polyester filler by evercoat. its expensive but it works awsome. it's very thin so you can feather it out quickly. i hate bondo brand products.... wont use them. evercoat has a sweet line of products so they have pretty much something for everyone.
Originally Posted by JDMFantasy2k
Any of you guys that have painted your bays, have you heard/seen/used this stuff??

https://www.paintscratch.com/

Apparently they sell OE paint in aerosol cans. Appears to have amazing feedback about the products and it's like 25/can.

Seems like a neat alternative for those guys who don't wanna krylon it and don't have a hvlp gun. I'm pretty interested in it i must say.
Originally Posted by Slappy
Originally Posted by DarkBB4
USC ICING
I think that is what (Bryan)Pandahatch used.......Ive heard good things about it too.

http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=1

http://www.evercoat.com/imgs/p...e.jpg
Originally Posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy-

The Paint/Body special issue of Hot Rod Magazine said as long as it's 1/4 of an inch or less, and the chemicals are mixed correctly, you won't have an issue with cracking. Naturally you want it much thinner than 1/4".
Originally Posted by Pandahatch
I do a LOT of metal work, grinding, smoothing, etc...you don't necessarily have to seam weld. If I have a seam I grind it down almost flush to the panel under it and apply a couple spot welds to minimize distortion and warpage and grind those down, I apply filelr and end up taking off over half of what I apply. It's a long tedious project as well.
Originally Posted by ezza
I was told that when removing the seam sealant stuff you have to weld the seems for strength what exactly does seam welding do, and when you say a couple of spot welds, like 1 per 3 inches?
Originally Posted by EF8kid
I did ALL sanding by hand on the my Cr-x's bay and the EK bay, cept on the core support like Brian...

oh evercoat metal glaze is kewl.
Originally Posted by JDMorgan
hand sanding with a block is about the best finish you will get, 2nd to an inline sander. rotating sanders tend to make **** wavy if you arent careful. most of the bay you cant even use an inline sander on tho so you have to pick between smaller blocks or rotating sanders.
evercoat and usc both have great products, just be sure to use the right product for your application and use it properly.
Originally Posted by DarkBB4
wats a good THICK primer to spray to help fill scratches, i.e. make it easier to see flaws. etc.?
Originally Posted by 4d_ek9
I dont know if you can get in the US but in the uk i tend to use a brand called U POL and its called reface it awsome stuff you can whallop it on as thick as you wish and it will sag into the inperfections, you can get away with covering 40ish grit marks with it, and when its dry jus guide coat and wet flat it with 500 / 800 depending on how thick u applied it.
Originally Posted by Slappy
My painter used a greenish filler primer(U-POL) that is thicker than your average primer. Once that first coat was layed on, any imperfections were more visible and could be touched up. Then a second coat was applied.

http://autobodystore.net/Merch...t.jpg

http://i95.photobucket.com/alb...0.jpg
Originally Posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy-
So is it best to use the metal glaze directly on the metal, then sand, then primer, or prime the bare metal, then glaze, then primer again? I know the metal glaze is designed to be used directly on bare metal, but I wasn't sure if one way was better than another. You know, chemical vs. mechanical bond and whatnot.
Originally Posted by I_HATE_JDM
I use evercoat rage extreme and it works very well.
<u>Seam Sealer/Stitch Welding/Welding</u>

Originally Posted by PatrickGSR94
So what are you doing if you remove the seam sealer? I'm sure it has a reason for being there, are you sure it's a good idea to remove it?
Originally Posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy-
Originally Posted by JDMFantasy2k
hey how are you guys getting rid of that seam sealer **** that is everywhere?
Most people weld that seam; one for rigidity, two for aesthetics.
Originally Posted by h22apwrdcivic
sand blast
Originally Posted by hondaboy4life
or heat it up with a propane torch then wire wheel in places where you can reach.
Originally Posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy-
A torch and a wire wheel is actually faster/easier than sand blasting. I've done both. Sandblasting works, but it's time consuming, and time consuming means a lot of sand, and a lot of sand means more money. You can buy a wire wheel (for pneumatic tools, would be best) and a propane torch for under $20. The sheet metal is so thin on our cars I'm reluctant to sand blast in the same area for an extended period of time (like for the thicker seam sealer). Get a little heat in the sealer then hit it with a wire wheel, it'll come right out.
Originally Posted by EF8kid
I scraped every inch of seam sealer in my entire car mostly with this tool. Small prybar(also works great for seperating spot welds):

http://i161.photobucket.com/al...8.jpg

Some places i used a wire wheel too
Originally Posted by JKGONZALEZ3
well i should ask i just took some seam sealer off and did some welding on the strut tower but i was wondering if you grind your weld down wont it weaken it or should it still be stronger than oem seam sealer was?
Originally Posted by donut.
welding makes the metal weaker in certain areas exept the particular area you weld. make sure you have the right setting
Originally Posted by Boosted Rex
The stuff your looking for is called self-leveling seam sealer. You use this stuff exactly like regular seam sealer BUT the key thing is that it is sandable because it is catalized. It costs about 30 bucks and comes in 2 tubes.

I can't remember the brand I used, but it was very similar to this
http://www.azautobodysupply.com/123fufamacas.html
Originally Posted by Hayce
You or anyone else mind elaborating on this?

Im up to here in my build now and Im unsure how to tackle it. Like is welding the seams the only options can you take it back flat and smooth it or? any ideas are good
Originally Posted by EF8kid

The tack's is stitch welding, He did multiple tacks on the one seam as u can see so he could make it all metal work and minimal filler.
http://img.photobucket.com/alb...e.jpg
Originally Posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy-
The seam sealer is there to prevent water and moisture from getting in there and causing rust. If you stitch weld the seams (1-3" apart), around the strut towers for example, it adds strength to the chassis, as all the panels are tied together. Some choose to weld the entire seam continuously and then grind it down, but Panda is saying that isn't necessary.
Originally Posted by hondaboy4life
with sheet metal u just have to do a series of tack welds. Do one at one side, then another furthest away from the one u just did, then go back and do one 1 inch from the 1st one, etc etc. JUst dont let it get too hot.
Originally Posted by sic944t
i dont know if this will work its a trick my dad talked about from torch welding but you could get a wet wool sock and put it on the back side as a heat sink to prevent some of the warping
Originally Posted by civicandy
But from what i'm told, it's because it's in the middle of a large area, with no support to keep it from warping. Unlike when you do an antenna, which has curved metal around it to keep it from warping.
Originally Posted by turbob18si
water promotes rust, use a piece of copper on the backside of where your welding. Copper is a excellent heat sink and will pull the heat away from where your welding. There is a copper tool for this with a handle. check http://www.eastwoodco.com, they have alot of things that help out on our projects
<u>[H]Wiring/Electrical[/H]</u>

<u>Main Engine Harness Tuck</u>

Page 85
Originally Posted by drevinder
engine baY'S LOOK good..but one question where do u guy's put the driver side harness ...and the passenger side ....make hole somewhere ? if so where..i'm stumped
[quote=ECKOTYPER]what u wanna do is connect the passanger and driver side on the interior side of the firewall, and get all ur connections to come out of a central hole ... i cut a hole about as big as the driver side hole, underneath the heater core, and ran my harness in through that, ( i retained my heater core) so the heatercore hoses kinda disguise the harness below <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Page 86
Originally Posted by ECKOTYPER
some people ahve been asking me how to do some tucks and stuff, so i made a simple diagram showing more or less hwo a stock engine is routed, and how a tucked one is routed (when i do it) im not getting into detail because if u read this thread instead of looking for pictures theres alot of helpful material in here... heres 1 visual... so please stop asking for help (j.k im glad to help)
Page 88
[QUOTE=SkankyEJ7]

the only thing that MAY (its been talked about but never really proven) affect your engines performance would be altering the length of the wires would be the injectors. so i left the injector wiring the stock length on my harness, but everything else its custom length. and my car runs fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Originally Posted by Rywire
What are we looking at?? This is a harness for a bseries obd1 car (ill make them for obd0/2 also)
Its basically like a EK harness witout the drivers side shocktower plug. One end is all the engine functions ready for a Bseries with chipped obd1 ecu (to turn off things like vtec oil pressure, eld, and o2 heater).
The other end has the ecu /jumper intergrated. It also has the fuse box power wire setup to be used under the dash as well as the drivers side 14pin connector and 2 pin connector ready to be plugged in under the dash out of sight...
Feeding it through the firewall can be done easily once the stock harness is removed and pulled inside.
This is my first attempt at a tuck harness, and im sure it will improve as I learn more tricks... The only change I can think to make on this is to cover the long loom areas with that shiny plastic covering over split wire loom.
Give me feedback on this please, thanks everyone! Oh, and these are not going to be cheap.

-Ryan

http://i70.photobucket.com/alb...1.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/alb...6.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/alb...5.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/alb...4.jpg

[ur;]http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/droppedcrxsi/wiretuck002.jpg[/url]

Originally Posted by Civichatch2k
What gauge of wire to you need if you are extending the harness?
Originally Posted by JDMorgan
no thicker than it is now, but some of the wires are shielded. why would you ever want to add more wires to a car? most of us are ripping out every wire possible and shortening ones that are required.
Originally Posted by Civichatch2k
Let me rephrase. I may have to extend the headlight harness and the horn. I was just wanting to match the gauge of wire if that has to occur. Other than that I am not doing anything other than tucking the wires.
Originally Posted by JDMorgan
i think most of the wiring is around 18awg. not 100% sure tho. i actually have a box of wire from crap i took out of my harness, when i need wire i look for the same color and size and its normally there.
<u>Tucking Your Headlight Harness</u>
Page 100
Originally Posted by Civichatch2k
on the Ek's how are you guys hiding the headlight harnesses.

I know you are running them through the fenders but because they run in the front of the car and then to two main plugs after you get the harness off, what are you doing to re-route them?

I have the harness on the passenger side which is connected to the fuse box and I have the driverside which runs to the fire wall.
Originally Posted by gabebauman
Page 102
Originally Posted by JDMFantasy2k
on mine, i routed the headlight harness through the drivers side only. All of the wires in the passenger side of the harness are for AC components aside from the wires for the horn and cooling fan. So i ran those wires through the interior, re-pinned them into the connectors on the drivers side, and then ran wires through the harness for them.
Originally Posted by Slappy
Originally Posted by American.Graffiti
Question:

After stripping my harness I see that some wires have interference (sp?) insulation, my question is how do you advoid cutting the wires to length for the tuck? (Hope my question is clear).
Originally Posted by B18EG6
you are referring to RF shield for some of the signals (distributor, knock are two that come to mind quickly).

If you choose to cut these, the best option is to replace the whole length from pin to pin with an already shielded wire. Some have had success with cutting the whole wire, soldering the conductors together, and resoldering the RF braid over top of them... however this is not perfect.
Originally Posted by NJcoupe
Where did u purchase the stuff to re-loom your harness. and what sizes?
Originally Posted by B18EG6
bought the smaller expandable sleeving from waytek wire, and the larger sleeving locally. The sleeving ranged from 3/16" - 1/2" when collapsed. I also got a few rolls of wire from waytek for some good price Towards the end of assembly, I didnt plan too well and thats why there is electrical tape

The connectors were bought from Allied, along with their crimpers. The two posts on the firewall are for the starter and alternator leads, both 4ga.'

I'll get some better pictures away from my yellow shop light as soon as the weather is nice enough to push the car out

http://www.sebastianstewart.net/progress2.jpg
http://www.sebastianstewart.net/progress5.jpg
Originally Posted by .adam.
can someone give me some advice on depinning the connectors on the engine harness....i am tryin to put the braided sleeving on and cant get the connectors off. i know to take out the white inner piece, but then i get stuck. anyone got some pics or advice.
Originally Posted by Hayce
Tiny screwdriver or use a de-pinner...

What sleeving are you using? Stuff I used had velco and wrapped around the loom.
Originally Posted by .adam.
i was planning on ordering this:
http://www.xoxide.com/techflex.html
Originally Posted by blackb18c1eg
try Snap On, I just ordered a universal de-pinning tool from them. I think it lists for like $45, sorry I dont have a pic or a link.
Originally Posted by .adam.
o yeah and for the injectors i have yellow, white, red, and brown.....can anyone verify which colors go with which cylinder?
Originally Posted by teal_dx

I'm guessing you have white instead of blue...

http://www.6thgearadvertising....x.jpg
ignore the resistor box part. this is if you were looking at your motor from the front.
YEL - BLUE - RED - BRN

http://www.6thgearadvertising....2.jpg

Here's looking at the injectors from the opposite side.
BRN - RED - BLU - YEL

be sure to double check them with a meter
Originally Posted by black88si
I am having a hell of a time figuring out how to de-pin my injector plugs....

Anybody know if it is even possible?
Originally Posted by .adam.
to depin the injector plugs get some needle noce pliers and pull really really hard on the little white circle tab thing sticking out where the two wires come out.
Originally Posted by eblucarbonem1
quick question tho, when doing the main harness are you guys just extending wires or are there certain resistances that need to be met? how hard is this exactly any quick tips? thanks
Originally Posted by AnToNy
Shortening or extending a wire does not change the resistance going through it.
so it will not make a difference
Originally Posted by DC2 Mang

but there will be a power drop of around .1 volts at the points where you connect and solder

that is why you avoid cutting the o2 sensor wires because their signal to the ecu is between .1 and .9 volts
Originally Posted by eblucarbonem1
so if im running 770's and doing a tuck harness do i need to run the wires through a custom resistor box or what?
Originally Posted by RedZone

you can use a stock honda resitor box and the wires are already at the end of the harness on the driverside strut box..... its the dead plug with the yellow/black wires....4 wires go to the injectors. If you trace out the wires at the dead plug, one wire will go to each injector. there should also be a power wire at the dead plug that turns on with the key. If you tap into this power wire and connect it to the power wire ont he resistor box and connect the 4 wires from the injectors to the 4 wires on the resistor box you will be able to now use low impedance injectors.

this is all assuming you have a civic or integra with a d or b engine
<u>Pins</u>

Originally Posted by ejwan
finally found the company that does our oem honda pins

its Tyco Amp here is the link to our pin that we need Tyco Amp Pin (Note: Under Instruction Sheets: click on the first link its a PDF file)

Not sure if its P/N 316836 which is the female pin size S. (size M is 316838). this is the 040 series there is also the 070.
I don't know the P/N for the male plug yet (if someone know it would be helpful)

They refer Female pins to Receptacle Contact
http://i49.photobucket.com/alb...6.jpg

and Male pins as Tab Contact
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...jpg[/QUOTE]
Originally Posted by .dave

PM user tony1. I believe he has a bunch of the pins.
<u>Distributor Wiring</u>

Page 45
Originally Posted by not so JDM Dan
you shouldnt have to shorten the distributor wires, i ran mine under the manifold and it came out perfect

Originally Posted by hayce
hmm done things a little different,

The wires that come out from the distributor (like your pic there) I have lengthened so the plug is under the manifold (mine orginally were shorter than yours, I aws your pics & believe me I tried )

The problem lies with the other end of the loom. I want to have the 5 plugs from the motor stopping under the heater hoses. Then the cabin side wires that connect to them peaking out a hole ive made there. So with that in mind the length of the wires wrapped up in the black plastic + braid is too long.
Originally Posted by not so JDM Dan
oh i see, hmm so you want to be able to disconnect the engine harness from the engine bay under the heater hoses?
Originally Posted by hayce
Yeah. This is actually my 2nd go as the first time I did it I just ran the wires through the hole and then put the plugs on which, when I pulled the motor left the loom stranded/trapped in the firewall so I had to chop it (hole is not big enough to pass all the plugs through it)
<u>Tucking Your HID Kit</u>
Originally Posted by Beau Gotti
Question for people with HIDs: where is everyone hiding their sh*t
Originally Posted by SkankyEJ7
[img=http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/todd-ej7/DSC00676.jpg]http://i17.photobucket.com/alb...6.jpg[/img]
and dont worry im pretty sure most all HID stuf is water RESISTANT! Noticce i did not say water proof, so im not liable if you try to submegre you hid's and cut them on
Originally Posted by H8 O ATE
Originally Posted by H8 O ATE
no problems so far , but i am using rubber stand offs, rubber washers, 2 reg bolts, 2 nylon bolts, and lock washers all around , might say its over kill, but i dont want my dis-continued HID's falling off on the freeway somewhere
as far as mounting, the Catz hid's have 4 bolt hole mounts on each corner, so all i did was drill & tap mounting holes on the frame rails
QUOTE=SHG_EasyE]i ran my auxillary fan and hid wiring through the main harness to the fuse box and dash (for the fan switch) http://i29.photobucket.com/alb...8.jpg
[url]http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/sohondaeg6/P1020691.jpg[/url ]

<u>Special Wire Loom (Sleeving)</u>

Originally Posted by KILLA_EK9
Where do u get this special wire loom thingy??? Anybody..
Originally Posted by teamsoy1320
it is for computer wire...go to xoxide.com or newegg.com and you can get it there
Originally Posted by wEaK Squad *ATL*
1/8", 1/4", 1/2", 3/4", and 1" are the loom sizes I’ve used
Originally Posted by BolivianFuego
Im a little late here, but to all good little boys who ask... Just call Clause...

http://www.partsexpress.com/we...D=161
Originally Posted by eblucarbonem1
how much and what sizes of this stuff are you guys using to do main harnesses?
http://cableorganizer.com/f6-wrap-around/
Originally Posted by American.Graffiti

I went to SVC "www.svc.com" [thanks EF8Kid aka Cha$e aka ballaholic] and just used the black sleeving kit. I have a good amount left over, I just might do a once over on mine so I dont have it as a waste.
<u>Wiring/Soldering Basics</u>

Originally Posted by civicandy
Since most of you guys are so good at wiring, I figured I would ask for tips. My current method is to use flux core solder and a soldering pen. I find that 2 hands is not really enough, since there are 2 wires, the solder and the soldering pen. Tips?
Originally Posted by h22apwrdcivic
get a clothes hanger and solder two aligator clips at two different points then use that to hold the wire tight while you solder. its what i use.
Originally Posted by B18EG6
I just strip ~.25 - .5" of insulation from the wire, line the two wires up side by side, and twist them lengthwise around each other.

The end result is a soldered section no larger than the insulated wire, with no pointy pieces that could poke through the heat shrink

I doubt a picture is needed, but if you want one lemme know.

Also - hemostats work very well when holding wires while soldering
Originally Posted by PatrickGSR94
I like to strip about 1" or a little more off each wire, make each wire into a hook shape, hook the wire ends together, then twist the ends and solder. That will make the absolute strongest solder joint, but you do end up with a slightly larger diameter than the original wire. If you have lots of wires with solders all next to each other then I guess that could be a problem.
Originally Posted by wEaK Squad *ATL*
^ correct ^
but dont twist them too tightly because you want the solder to be able to penetrate each thread... solder does NOT sit on top in a bubble... when correctly done, it almost soaks into the wire and itll be very hard to pull apart again
Originally Posted by PatrickGSR94
yep, and to do that, you need to heat up the wire so that the wire itself melts the solder. Don't melt the solder against the iron and let it drip onto the wires.
Originally Posted by gabebauman
PS: Don't forget to slide the heat shrink tube over one of the wires and set it back out of the way while soldering.
Originally Posted by h22apwrdcivic
Oh yeah and you heat the wire and not the solder that way the heat sucks in the solder making a permanent connection.
<u>Ground Wire On Your Valve Cover</u>

Page 60
Originally Posted by B18C Turbo
One thing I have noticed about all these sick bays are no one is using the ground for the valve cover? What are you guys doing, not using one at all or is it invisible?
Anyone got pics of where every ground should be? I know of the battery -, valve cover, and tranny.
Originally Posted by EF8kid
Put it on the back VC bolt
<u>Fuse Box Tuck</u>

Page 65
Originally Posted by B18EG6
Would it be possible to extend the wires, and mount the underhood fusebox in the trunk? I thought about doing this... use 18ga wire to extend the smmaller wires, some 10ga and 8ga for the bigger ones.

Also I have about 20 ft of 0ga for the battery wires, and 4ga to run from the alternator to the fusebox
Originally Posted by JDMorgan
its VERY possible but thats like maybe ten 12 gauge wires, and an 8 gauge... thats alot of wire. not to mention the smaller gauge wires. the wire to the battery itself could be super short tho if you ran a wire right from the battery to the fuse block.
Originally Posted by 95jdmej1
as for a custom batt. tray do you mean just weld a smaller tray there ??????
What is the hard part about heater box and fuse box ? can i do it myself???
Originally Posted by JDMorgan
section the stock tray so that the bottem is the same size as your battery. if you relocated the fuse box under the dash i bet you could fit the whole battery in the space between the fwall and strut tower(instead of sticking out like oe battery does).
with the dash out the heater core, ac evap, and blower motor only have a few nuts and bolts holding them in. you could yank all of it out pretty quick, then just make a panel to weld or rivet in where the heater hose came thru the fwall. i am pretty sure on eg civics you can even put a din block off where the hvac controls were. i am not a fan of removing heat in general, but if you think it's worth it... go for it. there are actually a couple options if you did want to daily drive this car with no oem hvac ****... you can either run a universal heater box so you still have heat and defrost, these are electric so there is no hole in the fwall. the other option is heated windshield.
the fuse box relocation is pretty basic but takes a little work, mostly just unwrapping and rewrapping wires. if you are pretty good with wiring give it a shot.
Originally Posted by DarkBB4
just a ?, when relocating fuse box.. how do u get the oem honda plugs through teh firewall?
Originally Posted by Madness
Uhmm.... Definately not. Disconnect them from the box, and push them throught the firewall one at a time.
Originally Posted by h22apwrdcivic
yeah they all disconnect from the fuse box, there are about 5-6 plugs on the back of the fuse box, disconnect and pull them back through the firewall and then reconnect. that was the easiest part. if you figured that part is confusing you might want to cease all further projects.
Originally Posted by American.Graffiti
http://img480.imageshack.us/im...9.jpg

Thats a test fit before I put the dash back in the car. Dont mind the cover, its fu_ked and I have a brand new one anyway.
Originally Posted by JDMFantasy2k
how bout this for a fusebox relocation
http://img.photobucket.com/alb...6.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/alb...8.jpg

yeah that took a lot of creativity. Works good though, plus the glove box is still useable
Originally Posted by NHswaps13203
run no heat haha, wait dont do that thats why i sold that car.

[url]http://img108.imageshack.us/img108/961/h2b25uf9.jpg[/ur;]
<u>Low Brake Fluid Switch</u>

Page 69
Originally Posted by B18C Turbo
Just wondering what to do about holes that im drilling to run wires thru. I need to cover the holes with a water tight seal, for example I drilled a hole in the vents in front of the windshield for the wiper wires to go under the dash rather thru the brake booster.

SO now i need to seal that hole up, and seal up the hole where the wires originally came thru to the engine bay, help.
Originally Posted by JDMorgan
brake fluid switch: remove the ground from the ground block and the signal pin from the connector right behind the firewall. then you can just take the switch off the cap and it looks way cleaner. if you dont notice your brake fluid low on your own maybe cars aren't your thing. ahaha.
wiper wiring: is a bitch. the best way to do it is cut a rectangle around the grommet hole already there, then another rectangle the same size on the firewall between the cabin and the cowl area so it isnt visible from the bay. then just but weld the pieces of metal in the opposite hole. then just run the wiring all inside your cabin right to the cowl and ur done.
not so JDM Dan is offline  
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Old 07-18-2006, 04:19 PM
  #3  
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Ontario & Alberta, Canada
Posts: 1,344
Default Re: - Shaved, Tucked, Customized Engine Bays - Pics, Theory, Discussion - (JDMDan)

(Continued)

<u>Air Conditioning, Power Steering and Heating</u>

<u>Resevoir Tank/Power Steering Deleting/Tucking</u>

page 56
Originally Posted by maxpsi
Ehh. PS fluid will pressurize out of a filter as well as it will pressurize out of a PS reservoir, so either way it will leak all over your engine bay. lol There will be some fluid that will stay in the rack regardless (which IMO is enough). You can hide a reservoir easily near the crossmember and shorten the lines. It all preference. Just make sure there is some fluid in the rack AND that it isn't open to the environment.
Originally Posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy-
If your car came with power steering and want to eliminate the parasitic drag on your motor, and the extra weight, you can remove the pump/belt/hoses. If you retain your p/s rack, it's in your best interest to "loop" it, which usually consists of a kit that is sold (usually home made) or you can make it yourself. This keeps fluid in the rack and and keeps it lubricated so that it doesn't wear out. Replacing your p/s rack with a manual rack is also an option. It will be more difficult to steer the car at a stand still, but nothing major.
Page 57
Originally Posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy-
I ran across this:

[img]http://rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=A9G_RtiSWB1FizYAsW6jzbkF;_ylu=X3oDMTA4NDgyNWN 0BHNlYwNwcm9m/SIG=12ekhja5b/EXP=1159637522/**http%3a//www.passwordjdm.com/uploads/images_products/818.jpg[/img]

"Buddy Club Power Steering Fluid dramatically improves the power steering fluid boiling point during sports driving. It contains a special sealer to prevent leaks from oil hoses and joints. Unlike brake fluid that uses hydraulic pressure fluid, power steering is controlled by an oil pump, which only has a pressure of 60kg/cm2. Therefore, it is likely for the ordinary power steering fluid to reach its boiling point during sports driving and for cars that are equipped with turbo, which causes more heat in the engine bay. Power steering can seize when the fluid reaches the boiling point.

The ultimate additive for power steering fluid (In red).
Improves the steering response using a silicone based additive (In blue). "
Page 81
Originally Posted by Hayce
Swap in a manual rack or loop the lines.

To loop the lines remove all the resiviour/pump gear and loop the two lines that the pump/resiviour ran to. Theres a thread in the ITR forum somewhere. One word of note for RHD people such as myself, all the pics on here show the lines to loop as being at the front of "kunckle" on our cars its flipped over so the lines to loop are at the back (real PITA on an ek...).

Drop nearly all of the fluid and some people add a breather in line.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=184202
Originally Posted by SHG_EasyE
you definatly do need a loop dude, and a breather. those 2 lines are not connected internally, so if you were to block them off, it would be extemely hard to turn the wheel, it would get harder the farther you turn it; building up pressure. if it were pointless why would the realtime team be using it?

i personally run a looped setup with a resivior and breather. for a while it was just a pinhole in the resivior cap and it wasnt big enough, when turned full lock you could hear the pressure releiveing slowly through the cap, and the steering would get hard if i turned the wheel quickly. i made the hole bigger and it was fine.


this is my new setup with a breather filter

http://i159.photobucket.com/al...6.jpg
Originally Posted by PatrickGSR94
A non-PS rack will have a slower ratio in order to help lower steering effort somewhat, but you'll end up with like 3.5 turns or more, lock to lock, instead of about 3 turns with a power rack. I think most people who ditch PS want to retain the faster ratio rack, which is going to be more responsive than a slower ratio rack. That's why they opt to do a vented setup on a power rack.
Originally Posted by SHG_EasyE
as far as the p/s vs non p/s rack i actaully had the manual rack which came in the car, but opted to do the p/s with breather because of the quicker ratio. even the manual rack with a quaife quick ratio rack and pinion is a half turn longer lock to lock than a stock p/s rack.

IMO the manual rack just feels very sloppy and theres no road feel compared to a looped p/s rack. maybe a dc manual rack is different than the civic? idk but i went from the OEM CX manual rack to a GSR power rack and felt a HUGE difference in feel. the GSR rack that came out of my old gsr has been looped for 3 years and no sighns of wear... you just have to make sure there is plenty of Honda p/s fluid in it... they tend to get a little sticky if you use anything else
<u>A/C Removal</u>

Page 63
Originally Posted by h22apwrdcivic
i removed my a/c evaporator complete box assembly from behind the dash, and purchased a non a/c box from hondapartsdeals.com it doesnt free up a great mass of space but i wanted to retain my heat, b/c i do get cold very easy even in fall. but there is a good 5x3" space for something above there, i believe i will stash my ignition coil and the msd ignition main box on top of it with rivets.
Originally Posted by B18C Turbo
Ok I need that piece, i want it! What is it called actually? Im talking about the ac removal part
Originally Posted by JDMorgan
heater duct... part 79810-SR3-A01 for a 94-01 teg.
Page 97
Originally Posted by JDMorgan
just look in the air conditioning section of whatever honda parts site you buy thru, then grap the piece that goes where the condenser goes and the plug too. make sure you select the base model of whatever car you have.... so civic cx, or integra rs.
Originally Posted by JDMorgan
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/d...ch=no
^part #7: 79810-SR3-A01 DUCT, HEATER
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/d...ch=no
^part #18: 91631-SR3-000 PLUG, AIR CONDITIONER HOLE
<u>”Heater” removal Removal</u>

Originally Posted by .adam.
what are you guys using to plug up the heater hose outlet and inlet when you take out your heater core.....i dont want to loop a hose.
Originally Posted by donut.

you can get a rubber plug from pepboys for both of them. or for the one on the side of the head, you can take out the spout with a (21mm?) socket and plug it. i plugged mine with the bronzish plug thing near the dizzy. it takes an alen wrench
Originally Posted by CRXBart

Oh you guys meant on the engine? Mine is looped for now. I am removing the water pipes, and welding the ports shut soon though.
<u><FONT SIZE="3">Miscellaneous Engine Bay Component</FONT></u>

<u>Getting Rid of the Carbon Canister</u>

Originally Posted by jdmb16acivic
When you do get rid of the carbon canister put a hose on the breather vent line from the gas tank and run it down to the bottom of your engine bay so when you're driving the air underneath the car will suck away the vapors. Or you can just smell the gas all the time. Just know you will smell some gas fumes from time to time when you take it off.
Originally Posted by not so JDM Dan
i just cut the hard line at the back of the car and ran a rubber hose out just past the bushing on the trailing arm, no smell of gas in the car





[droppedcrxsi]charcoal canister will never make a cel turn on.

the evap purge solinoid will throw a code on obd2 cars, if you go obd1 you can just take it off without a problem
Originally Posted by DFW
I just took out the huge canister, what do i do about the line on the left and the little canister that it goes into? it's kinda right under the battery.

http://img405.imageshack.us/im...5.jpg
Originally Posted by JDMFantasy2k
the pinkish line is just a breather so you can trash that. Hold onto the canister for when you need to pass smog, otherwise just block off the hose that runs back to the fuel tank so you can hook everything up again. Least that's what i did.
Originally Posted by DFW

Like this? Have a hose from

there
http://img512.imageshack.us/im...6.jpg

to here? this is on the firewall haha shitty picture
http://img512.imageshack.us/im...6.jpg
Originally Posted by gabebauman

That's how we did it on my buddy's coupe.

Connect the hose to the plastic drain tube that dumps out below the car.
Originally Posted by JDMFantasy2k
or you guys can stop letting FLAMMABLE fuel vapors from leaking out of your car all the time by plugging the line and letting the fuel tank pressure bypass work naturally when the tank reaches it's maximum safe pressure like honda designed it

think, ever leave a 5gallon jug of gas in the sun? expletiveer expands real quick, gas in your tank does the same thing.

So if you don't drive your car, evap isn't running, fumes are expanding, eventually they need to be purged or else your car turns into a potential bomb. I promise if you block off your tube (or even just disconnect your purge solenoid), you'll hear a funny noise from your car on a warm day.
Originally Posted by civicandy

Where is the pressure bypass located? Currently I just ran a hose from the vent down below the crossmember
Originally Posted by JDMFantasy2k
ok, there's 3 pipes that come from the gas tank, fuel, fuel return, and fuel vapor. The fuel vapor hose on an EK comes almost all the way to the charcoal canister, and then a rubber hose connects it to the canister. What i did was take out the canister, and i cut the vapor hose back near the crossmember where its out of site. Then i clamped a rubber hose to it, and clamped the end ****. So if you need your canister back, install a different rubber hose to the canister and you're done. So i'm assuming that's what you're trying to say you did.

Not sure what you mean by "by pass". Are you referring to the open atmosphere fuel pressure relief valve? I believe it's on the top of the gas tank. Mine makes a weird buzz/humm when it's open. Hope that cleared it all up
<u>Rad Overflow Bottles</u>

Page 24
Originally Posted by itekdu
how is everyone doing their rad. overflow bottles? im sure I saw somewhere someone had done a stainless one?
Originally Posted by gabebauman
Mine is mounted between the bumper and the radiator. I just purchased a couple feet of new hose to run over/around/behind the radiator. You can't even see it.
Originally Posted by H8 O ATE

Wow look at that paint on the framerail
Originally Posted by mattcivic
i paid like $80 for mine i think.
Originally Posted by not so JDM Dan
i made a small bracket with some strip aluminum and bolted it to the core support and to the oem bracket...

http://i14.tinypic.com/2hwirmu.jpg
<u>Type of Battery You Can Use</u>

Page 28
Originally Posted by SPOON_BeIgHtEeNsEe
where are u guys putting ur battery? i was thinking either the rear trunk or get one of them smaller batteries and putting it in the glove box.... for those who has the battery in the glove box which one are u running? and how are u guys going about securing it down?
Originally Posted by Pandahatch
In my hatch the battery is in the glove box, it's a lawn mower battery from Meijer, 270CC amps. NEVER had a problem with it.
Originally Posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy-
On my CRX I used a moto dry cell battery behind the driver seat. It will be under the dash in my current project. I haven't decided on a brand yet. I was looking at odyssey, but I've heard bad things about those...
Page 77
Originally Posted by PURO~SURCAL
where do you get those battery terminal from on the firewall i need some bad
Originally Posted by h22apwrdcivic
not my car but i got mine at

summitracing.com they are 14.95, part number is sum-g1430
<u>How To Hide Your Brake Booster Vacume Line</u>

Page 44
Originally Posted by phresh_5
FIY, since I havn't heard anyone talk about it yet...

Easy way to hide the brake booster vacuum line:

Put the intake manifold vacuum nipple in a vise and twist it so it points downwards. I did this to my Skunk2 manifold and it turned easily. The fitting is only pressed into the manifold. I'm sure stock manifolds can also be done like this.

Also, flip the brake booster 180 degree's. This will put the booster nipple on the bottom left corner instead of the top right.
Originally Posted by gabebauman

If you rotate the booster 180 degrees...it places the booster hose nipple on the bottom left instead of top right.

http://www.hondaautomotivepart...4.gif
<u>Throttle Cable</u>

Page 72
Originally Posted by xtremeness101
I need some advice from you guys, what are my options for a way to re-route my throttle cable? And also, are you able to unplug the fuse box and just move it into the cabin of the car?
Originally Posted by cubish
get rid of the gsr throttle cable.. use a type r cable...it will bolt to the jg manifold and be easier to hide
Originally Posted by JDMorgan
you need an itr spring and throttle wheel, then of course cable and bracket. im workin on a bracket that replaces the aicv.
<u>Hidden Hood Latch Cable</u>
Page 102
Originally Posted by teal_dx
if anyone doesn't, here's a link to a how-to:
http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=112

<u>Running No Torque Mounts</u>
Originally Posted by PatrickGSR94
And what's this about not running torque mounts?? You mean some of you guys are driving your cars around with only the 2 side engine/tranny mounts holding the engine in place?? How is that possible? How does that engine not rock back and forth all over the place and cause nasty sounds and possibly break parts?
Originally Posted by ATS*Mark
im not running torque mounts... 85a innovatives
<u>K Series Alternator Solution</u>

Originally Posted by Boosted Chemist
Found this in another thread, nice way to clean up some k series uglyness?
.
http://www.etdracing.com
<u>Bolts/Washers</u>

Originally Posted by Fuster_Cluck
Can someone give me some info on the fender/headlight hardware on this EG? Thanks!!
http://img.photobucket.com/alb...y.png
Originally Posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy-

Maybe Mugen? $25 per set.

http://www.kingmotorsports.com...1.jpg
Originally Posted by B16B_coupe
Originally Posted by jarel

just basic countersunk washers and allen heads. search online for them or hit up a GOOD hardware/bolt store near you. But yikes!...$60 for all the bolts under the hood? Glad i didn't spend that much for all of my mine, probably less then half of that.

http://www.imagestation.com/pi...f.jpg
Originally Posted by pgpbubble
Originally Posted by stealthmode62
The 10mm bolts are M6x1.00 I bought a bunch last week and have been installing them.
Originally Posted by ek4kid
anyone every try this site for bolts/countersunk washers? http://www.tastynuts.com/site/...e.htm

just stumbled on it
Originally Posted by HOTSAUCE01
What up... found these bolts for ya..

http://passwordjdm.com/Passwor....aspx

little pricey, but sick!!


<u>[H]Tools[/H]</u>

<u>Flare Tool</u>

Page 74
Originally Posted by itekdu
Can someone tell me the brand of flare tool you guys are using? I'm trying to find one, but con only seem to find 45 degree flare tools, not 37...
Originally Posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy-
Try summitracing.com or anplumbing.com . You can probably find a 37* flare tool on eBay too, used and cheaper.

$109.99 anplumbing.com



http://www.anplumbing.com/shop...Tools

$31.95 summitracing.com



http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku

I didn't see much on eBay, but that Summit one is fairly cheap anyway. Plus they'll probably send you a super cool Summit hat if you order from them.

Here's a baller set... $299.99 It does 37* and 45*, including stainless.



http://www.eastwoodco.com/shop...49130

Here is another. $83.95



http://imagescommerce.bcentral...1.jpg

&lt;Bored at work.
<u>Soldering Iron</u>

Page 71
Originally Posted by Boosted Chemist
teh weller one that looks like a gun, they heat up instantly and solder alot better than the pens imo.
Originally Posted by NHswaps13203
Snap On cordless FTW

ive had mine for three years

little pricy but i buy the best so dont ask to borrow lol
Originally Posted by H8 O ATE
damn balla !
I thought this was cool, weller makes one that looks almost identical to the snap on...

on another note
I love my weller...wifey bought it for me and its going strong...

and although im sure th snap on is dope, for cordless duties, you cant beat the weller pyropen Jr...so f'n small
<u>Flaring Tools</u>

Originally Posted by integrax97
Ok, so i got another line done tonight haha... I ran out of line so im gonna have to wait till this weekend to finish off lines for the bulkheads. Im excited cuz i really didnt know what i was gonna do cuz the lines i was flaring before with the crappiest peices of **** ever flare tool from jegs and summit wasnt working with the summit line i bought. So i did a little research and finally got me some GOOD tools. I had to pay a little more but it works. Also instead of using the shitty summit SS hard lines, i went on mcmasters website. They have tubing that is SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO much better than what summit offers. im happy i found this website.

Ill show the pic of how i did the other line. It was tough to get this line working cuz of the angle of the prop vavle but i got it and i dont think i did a bad job at all with it. pics to come tomorrow for sure! thanks
<u>Micrometers[/i]

Page 98
Originally Posted by NJcoupe
The fluke 87 is the best thing I could have ever purchased/used in terms of multi-meters.
Originally Posted by H8 O ATE
88 es bueno!
http://us.fluke.com/images/pro...p.jpg
the 87 should look about the same, this is the only pic they have on their site
http://us.fluke.com/images/pro...p.jpg
<u>MIG Welders{/u]
Originally Posted by vega_ROCKS
Originally Posted by DC2 Mang

I have the lincoln HD100 pak welder that im using for my shave, it cost's around $400 but only runs off 115 amps and plugs right into any wall outlet. Also it has the power to weld 1/4" mild steel, uses flux shielded wire and can be converted to a gas shielded welder for around $100

well worth the extra money if you plan to do more than an engine bay shave down the road
<u>Misc[/i]

Originally Posted by Slappy
You can order a HELMS manual they can ship it straight to you. 1-800-782-4356
[H][b]<u>Important/Useful Links[b]</u>[/H]
This is basic “Coles notes” of sites that will aid you in building your customized bay. If you’re currently working on a tuck/shave…these should be bookmarked already

http://cableorganizer.com/
Heat shrink tubing, split wire loom, cable tray, and other cable protection systems and organizers

http://www.svc.com/sleeving.html
This is a computer part site, but great for finding sleeving to cover up your wires.

http://summitracing.com
This site will get you almost anything…from braided lines and fittings to tools, air intakes and motor mounts, etc. This is what I like to call the “walmart of auto parts and supplies”

http://www.anplumbing.com/
The oldest online supplier of Earls AN fittings, adapters, Swivel Seal, Ano-Tuff, stainless steel braided lines, Teflon braided, AN wrenches, AN port adapters, fuel filters, fuel cells, check valves, oil filters, oil block adapters, oil coolers, Setrab, gauge adapters, Turbo line kits, brake lines, brake hoses, you name it.

http://www.markwilliams.com/br...D=194
Brake Lines and fittings. The site sells other aftermarket parts, but I believe all you’ll need from this site is brake lines. Their inventory is very nicely organized and has nice big pictures.

http://www.autobody101.com/
Forums, supply lists, DIY’s, videos, etc on auto body and everything you need to know about it to get you going.

https://www.paintscratch.com
One of the best sites to find your paint code for your car, no matter what make or model you own. It’s also great if you want to find a paint code from a car you saw which you want to use for your car.

http://www.hondapartsdeals.com
Excellent part site which provides Honda part numbers, so you can find anything you need. Excellent for those who want to delete their ABS lines finding the part number of those rusty engine bay components

http://www.acuraoemparts.com
Pretty much the same as the Honda part site listed above, except it contains a list of Acura parts.

http://www.partsexpress.com/mf...96263
Great link if you want to clean up and protect your tucked projected with some Braided loom for that great finishing touch.

http://www.fastener-express.com/
This link is provides a lot of bolts washers and nuts which come in many sizes and anodized finishing. Good if you want to replace those old rusty bolts in your bay to match it with the rest of your parts.

http://www.tastynuts.com/
Similar to the link above, but provides a different selection, and these are specified as automotive bolts which are apparently “light weight”

http://www.eastwoodco.com/
unique automotive tools and supplies (everything from rust products, to paint, to powder coating, abrasive blasting, etc…the body man’s heaven)

http://www.waytekwire.com
Waytek Wire usually has lower minimum buying quantities on connectors so you're not stuck buying per hundred. They carry a wide variety of fittings/connectors/loom/shink tubing.

http://www.delcity.net
Automotive battery accessories, fasteners, cable ties, fuses/fuse accessories, grommets, hose clamps, loom and clamps, relays, shrink tube and tape, spooled wire and cable, switches, terminals, trailer connectors, etc. Basically, it’s a great site for all you creative bastards to try new things on your bay with.

http://www.terminalsupplyco.com
They don't list their pricing on their site (which I know can be an inconvenience) but I know if you request a price quote and ask them to beat Del City or Waytek pricing they usually can. Sometimes there are minimum quantities for that pricing though.

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/
Excellent link if you’re learning how to weld. It’s primarily focused on MIG welders, but as many of you know those are excellent for beginner welders! They provide very useful information on welding new body panels, filling holes, etc.

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Old 07-18-2006, 04:27 PM
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Default Re: - Shaved, Tucked, Customized Engine Bays - Pics, Theory, Discussion - (4genaccordfreak)

heres mine not a good pic might take more tonight BUT its a old pic..and those are some HOT bays.

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Old 07-18-2006, 04:37 PM
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Default Re: - Shaved, Tucked, Customized Engine Bays - Pics, Theory, Discussion - (evil_s13)

ELUSIVESIR:


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Old 07-18-2006, 04:56 PM
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Default Re: - Shaved, Tucked, Customized Engine Bays - Pics, Theory, Discussion - (NAallTheWAY)

damn right! i like how the remote terminals are on the fender well side, im taking a wild guess but your batterys in the fender well right?
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Old 07-18-2006, 05:12 PM
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Old 07-18-2006, 05:20 PM
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Default Re: - Shaved, Tucked, Customized Engine Bays - Pics, Theory, Discussion - (JDMDan)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMDan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn right! i like how the remote terminals are on the fender well side, im taking a wild guess but your batterys in the fender well right? </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah it is located right below the p/s headlamp behind the bumper.
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Old 07-18-2006, 05:21 PM
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Default Re: - Shaved, Tucked, Customized Engine Bays - Pics, Theory, Discussion - (ELUSIVESIR)

awesome got any pics?
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Old 07-18-2006, 05:23 PM
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Default Re: (cd_5TUNR)

Older pic



bay is getting resprayed with the rest of the car
1" MC.
New Hard Brakelines tucked away.
RMF header
and rebuilt Engine.
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Old 07-18-2006, 05:23 PM
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Default

Your car is looking great Dan.

You too Ceaser.

Great progress !

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Old 07-18-2006, 05:24 PM
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Default Re: (cd_5TUNR)

dont really see anything wrong with sohc with shaved bays, even tho i dont think i ever seen it. but anyways bump for more pics.
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Old 07-18-2006, 05:28 PM
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Couple of ATS-GARAGE's Cars :





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Old 07-18-2006, 05:28 PM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ekizzle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your car is looking great Dan.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks bro! im workin on it post some of your car!!!! def worthy of the 1st post as well
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Old 07-18-2006, 05:32 PM
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Default Re: (jdmeg693)

-oddysey battery in trunk
-relocated fuse box
-relocated prop. valve (ABS removed)
-ps removed
-A/C removed
-all emissions stuff removed
-inline fuel filter
-blower/heater assembly removed
-DC airbox

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Old 07-18-2006, 05:39 PM
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i haven't seen any hidden master cylinders or boosters yet, it can be done
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Old 07-18-2006, 05:41 PM
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Default Re: (JDMlyfestyle)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlyfestyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey dont those Radiator hoses mess up the water flow being like that. ive seen a few cars running these hoses and i was always curious that it could cause the water flow to be choppy </TD></TR></TABLE>
only ran it for a couple days, then was on oem
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Old 07-18-2006, 05:41 PM
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Default Re: (b16_madman)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16_madman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i haven't seen any hidden master cylinders or boosters yet, it can be done
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats what i want to see
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Old 07-18-2006, 05:41 PM
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Default Re: - Shaved, Tucked, Customized Engine Bays - Pics, Theory, Discussion - (JDMDan)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMDan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">awesome got any pics?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Here you go JDMDAN:
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Old 07-18-2006, 05:48 PM
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Default Re: - Shaved, Tucked, Customized Engine Bays - Pics, Theory, Discussion - (NAallTheWAY)

none of these have anything on this bay. cleanest ever. /thread
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Old 07-18-2006, 05:49 PM
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Default Re: - Shaved, Tucked, Customized Engine Bays - Pics, Theory, Discussion - (NAallTheWAY)

Matt, you and Chris need to help me tuck my DA this winter. I should have a garage to work in!
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Old 07-18-2006, 05:50 PM
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Default Re: - Shaved, Tucked, Customized Engine Bays - Pics, Theory, Discussion - (SuperTwinz)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuperTwinz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Car runs 12.2s makes 250 whp and will be in the Super Street time attack:

http://www.imagestation.com/al...63991</TD></TR></TABLE>
clean but not tucked what i posted is tucked
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Old 07-18-2006, 05:50 PM
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Default Re: - Shaved, Tucked, Customized Engine Bays - Pics, Theory, Discussion - (ELUSIVESIR)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ELUSIVESIR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here you go JDMDAN:
</TD></TR></TABLE>

ahh nice, if i relocate my battery thats where its going

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TonyTouch. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">none of these have anything on this bay. cleanest ever. /thread
</TD></TR></TABLE>

IMO that bay and pandas are too close to call
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Old 07-18-2006, 05:51 PM
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Default Re: - Shaved, Tucked, Customized Engine Bays - Pics, Theory, Discussion - (TonyTouch.)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TonyTouch. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">none of these have anything on this bay. cleanest ever. /thread
</TD></TR></TABLE>
of course Chad's belongs on top! JDM_JON was WAY Ahead of his time! along with Jonah! someone find a pic...giotta know ur roots!
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Old 07-18-2006, 05:52 PM
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Posts: 3,708
Default Re: - Shaved, Tucked, Customized Engine Bays - Pics, Theory, Discussion - (8 O ATE)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 8 O ATE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
of course Chad's belongs on top! JDM_JON was WAY Ahead of his time! along with Jonah! someone find a pic...giotta know ur roots!</TD></TR></TABLE>
for sures they were some, if not the first people to be tuckin
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