dfanatic

I love this. The world needs more H22 swaps. Seems like its becoming a forgotten engine.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Thanks. I searched high and low to see if they made an ek version but never found it

I don't think 15mm is worth it though. I've already rolled and pulled the stock fenders at all four corners more than that (I clear 15x8 offset wheels as is) I think my only option might be the 3 piece front end. I'll simply have to make a 4point mounting system that bolts the front lip /splitter/undertray straight to the chassis, this avoids any stress on the bumper itself and will more effectively transfer any downforce to the chassis

peaceable

iTrader: (1)

Ya, I've got a scale here at my desk to help visualize part sizes and clearances and that 15mm doesn't bring much with it. Nice fenders though. I don't have much tire/wheel experience. As I'm planning on going 8's up front and 7's in the back on my EG, I wonder if a 16 x 8" set-up would fit under that without issue?

j.red

The previous owner of my hatch had some nylon spacers at the bottom bolt by the door and on the bracket by the turn signal. Bottom one was about an inch or a little more and the bracket was about half that. Very cheap and let him fit 245's.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I had thought about that... but it would present an issue with mounting the sideskirts I plan on using

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I could do what some FormulaD guys do and get a set of fender flares and mount them off of the body with spacers, helps eliminate air in the wheel wells(avoiding lift) and would let me run wider rubber. The hard part is deciding how long the spacers should be to avoid making the car look horrible

SUB-0 H23

Amazing👍👍

sintype

nice!

ReedMann

iTrader: (11)

So the main reason is to run high end dampers/springs? Are you converting the rear to double wishbone then doing push/pull rod too or sticking with the trailing arm setup?

WeakSi

iTrader: (2)

we ran out of time and couldn't get a hood cut in time before the race as well as tidying up the bay a little more. Car was just finished Friday and took it to the track yesterday.

vadimkag

more pics

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I haven't given much thought to converting the rear to double wishbone. There would be an awful lot of fabrication needed and I'm not sure if the benefits outweigh the cost and amount of work involved, especially since I plan on converting every bushing to a spherical joint.

And yes the main reason is to run high end dampers. When we called Penske to confirm certain things about the coilovers even they were amazed I had a set like this. That's saying a lot lol

BriantheButcher

For the multiple ground question, just get a connector that's a larger size gauge a run all tge wires into one connector.

BriantheButcher

They have j's racing fenders for 96-00 civics. Not just for eg's.

thermal

subscribed... Going to attempt this project....

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Yea a buddy of mine linked me above. I never could find them. But 15mm is nowhere near enough for what I need. I already have my stock fenders front and rear rolled and pulled almost an inch

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Here are the coilovers I've been talking about. Roughly 13" long uncompressed.. fronts take a 2.25"id spring (same for the rears) that's 5" in length, rears take a 6" spring. They are double adjustable for compression and rebound and adjusting one does not affect the other. The shocks have roughly 80-85 clicks of adjustment on both circuits. There's a floating piston in tbe top of each unit that separates the nitrogen charge from the shock oil. Each is charged to 150psi. Plus I can service these on my own

The fronts had the shim stack redone for 800lb springs while the rears were done for 1000lb springs. I asked most of the guys that do road courses in my chassis and they said this was a good starting point as far as spring rates go



Coilovers next to a ground control sleeve and a stock 96-00 front strut



Next to the sleeve



mounting the rears as an inboard cantilever setup is rather simple, the fronts are going to require extensive modifications to the front upper strut towers. This will probably mean lots of metal removal and bracing the area in which the shock is to be mounted. The nice thing about this particular set up is I can constantly change and fine tune the ratio between wheel travel and shock travel

OrangeTeggy

Have a ? how much everyone is running their prop valves in the cabin of the car? Why not else where like under a fender etc?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

The plumbing off the prop valve has to be fairly equal in terms of length to each caliper. Plus under a fender road debris could potentially damage lines. Leaving you with no brakes other than the hand brake..also mounting it inside the car makes it easy to spot and repair any leaks

Personally I'm not using a stock prop valve due to my braking setup. I have dual master cylinders one for each braking circuit front and rear. These are mounted on a pedal with a balance bar and I'm using an inline wilwood prop valve on the rear circuit that will he mounted somewhere I can easily reach to adjust proportioning on the fly

ntensedavid

ANYONE???

ntensedavid

...

bks84

iTrader: (9)

Thanks dude. Sucks the thread is being cluttered with non-shaved/tucked stuff and questions get skipped.

i was hoping someone would know where to get the OE style ring terminals.

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

stitch welded, grind then fill

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

^that's really the only way. However I'm totally against body filler in the engine bay as it will eventually crack

If you seam weld that whole joint and have good angle grinder skills you can grind the welds down till they are perfectly smooth. Grind them down almost all the way then take a flapper wheel or sanding disc and do the final shaping. If the weld is porous and leaves holes, you can fill those in with something like jb weld if it's a pinhole sized deal. If it's larger lay another small weld (like a spot weld) and repeat the shaping process

Given my hatred of body filler, I'll be welding over any extra holes with a copper pad backing the hole, this makes the underside of the weld smooth amd stops weld boogers. And seams and stuff that won't work with welding I'll use the old hot rod trick of laying down lead to cover any seams and things like that. Then just shape it with a sanding disc

MRGRIM

iTrader: (1)

^^^ mmm lead filling Oh the fun ive had