siblues

iTrader: (1)

From what I have been told the Kens setup runs about 130.How much are you guys getting the master cylinder for that seems pretty reasonable to me.

darkstarsinner

Part of the advantage for me is that I own my own parts store, and am a direct retailer of Wilwood. So I get the MC and everything else pretty cheap.

siblues

iTrader: (1)

Lucky you lol that must come in real handy when doing a tuck all the Earls fittings must be pretty cheap.

rogueeg6

iTrader: (1)

yea ken wont sell just the plate. i asked.

BrandonRyan

anyone know of a good online place to send stuff to get anodized?

siblues

iTrader: (1)

I think Blaze the chemi on here does that for a living.He works for a pretty big place.

darkstarsinner

I do, but to be honest I'm rather fond of the Russell line. Prices are decent and the quality is great.

If I can't get the measurements from here, I'm going to have a buddy CNC a couple trial and errors for me. My main concern is the thickness of the plate between the MC and the fire wall. The rest just requires measurements of the wall itself.

BrandonRyan

^ are you using a oem setup or a willwood?

EFcivicJDM

hows it goin about to start a wire tuck and shave on my DA6...was just wondering about my throttle cable how do i tuck this as my car is RHD and it comes from the other side??

Linh.

Hes trying to make the booster delete plate correct?

I AM WEASEL

iTrader: (1)

http://www.apexanodizing.com/ they have a facility in Portland, don't know how far you are from Portland though.

rogueeg6

iTrader: (1)

my Kens is exactly a 1/4inch you also will need to make a bracket to mount to the pedal like the OE wishbone one.

yes. how would taking measurements from the booster help him? its going in the garbage...

siblues

iTrader: (1)

I think he really is interested in the thickness of the plate so he doesnt have any issues connecting it to the pedal and so the stroke is correct.Thats my guess at why he needs measurements.

Linh.

Its really not even that complicated. The brake booster delete is just a mounting plate. I took a quick picture of the backside of the booster to show you what I mean. The main thing here is your bolt hole pattern. As long as the bolt holes line up your fine. And your length/width dimensions dont exceed what the dimensions are on the back of the brake booster. When you take off your brake booster you will notice theres a gasket. You can just use that for your dimensions. Its not critical. And you already have the thickness since rogueeg6 measured it already. It looks like a 1/4" anyways...

darkstarsinner

It's a Wilwood MC

darkstarsinner

There's actually a bit more to it then that. Your brake booster from front to back is pretty thick, and your MC mounts on top of that. The Wilwood MC has it's rod slightly longer then the OEM MC to allow for adjustment. The thickness of the plate allows for a more accurate set up. I can get more into it but the thickness of the plate is more important then one would think.

Linh.

I understand what your saying but like I said before its not complicated. Its the same exact thing as the s2k cmc spacer. Right? Its not like your plate has to be within a .001 tolerance. Just by looking at all the other plates all of them look to be 1/4". All flat bar aluminum are made in standard size 1/8 ,1/4 ,3/8/ ,and etc. Not some weird thickness.

darkstarsinner

I can understand that, but I'm not one to go by what it looks like it might be. Also my aluminum source has rather large blocks of it that will be CNC'd down. I'll actually get several plates from the one block.

Linh.

Well if you want the exact thickness. Connect the clevis to the pedal. And your machinist can go from there. Kind of seems like a waste of material to me. I think some flat bar would be alot less costly and faster to machine.

rick_rabies

siblues

iTrader: (1)

It has been said that it takes a bit more effort to brake but its easy to get used to after a few times of driving the car.

Notorious92rhdEG

do you daily your car? if so, i would not remove it.

BrandonRyan

Prob not what you wanted to hear. but id make it to your own specs Prob could find this out in about 2min if your oem setup is already removed from your firewall. even if someone told you its 1.75 thick.. i would still check for yourself before paying to have someone CNC something up.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

I agree. Machining this on a 3-d machine out of a block is a huge waste of time and resources.

correct thickness flat bar -> two cuts (length/width) -> drill/bore five holes -> round 4 corners -> done.

Unless you're gonna get fancy and machine in some neato contours and stuff...

Linh.

A 1/4" and 1 3/4" is a big difference. I didn't say hey, just wing it. I dont want to make one because of the way the pedal feels. I work at a machine shop and could easily make one if I wanted to. I was just trying to help out thats all. Like I said before get your willwood master cylinder. Connect the clevis to the pedal. Get a scale and measure.