ok been turboing my buddys 97 accord (f22b1) for the past week. Go to start it fuel pump doesn't turn on so i drop the tank check everything out still wont turn on. it is obd2 to obd1 converted from phearable.net i tryed starting it with the stock ecu still doesnt turn on the fuel pump on nor does it turn on the stock pump. there is gas in the tank... i checked the relay i checked the fuse i made sure everything is plugged in so we ended up cutting the pump wires and connecting them to a battery and the pump turns on so my friend re wired it and we tryed to start it with both ecu's it wont start with either... the plugs are fine it has spark i dont know what could be keeping it from starting.. the motor was pulled before we turbo'd it but everything is plugged back in where it is supposed to go....i plugged in the stock ecu and scanned it with an obd2 scanner and no codes came up wtf is wrong please help!!!!

 

Do you have power actually AT the fuel pump plug? Put a multi-meter on the connector and cycle the ignition key and see if you get voltage at the plug (make sure to test for the positive voltage with one lead, and have the other lead on a KNOWN good ground). If not keep working your way backwards in the wiring harness until you find power. Sounds to me like there is an open in the fuel pump power wires in the harness (assuming the ECU, relay, fuses, ect. are all good). Chances are if you do this you will find where your problem is at.

If your using the multimeter to check the power supply wires and you DO find voltage, then the fault (or open) is going to be between the connecter you just tested and found voltage at, and the previous connector you tested.

If there arent alot of connectors between the relay and the fuel pump itself, you can use a pin to check for voltage at various places throughout the wiring harness (hook the multimeter up to a pin). Although this does damage the insulation on the wire slightly, it works great for diagnosing. Just brush on some "liquid" electrical tape in each spot you ***** it with.

Also, check the ground at the fuel pump. If the pump grounds through the fuel tank assembly then there is a possibility there could be an open in that circuit as well.

 

I will put my money that it is NOT the fuel pump plug.

 

ok ran a ground from the t-stat housing to the frame and car started right up shut the car wired the fuel pump back to stock ...fuel pump wouldnt turn on then ran the power from the fuel pump directly to the fuse box to come on with ignition and car wont start again ... pump works gets gas to the rail but injectors wont spray now...WTF?!?!?

 

Main Relay controls both the fuel pump and the fuel injectors through both of its internal (2) relays, the Main Relay also powers the ECU through the Injection Relay portion. I THINK the Main Relay gets power from the Ignition Switch directly and there has to be a fuse protecting a portion of the switch.

The ECU has to get power from the Injection portion of the Relay to wake up the ECU so that the ECU can control the ground side of the fuel pump portion of the relay coil. Its a whole circle jerk so jumper the four power and ground wires of the main relay. The switch side, not the coil side.

It was good to relocate the ground from the tstat housing or add a redundent ground as you have, make sure all of that is good and clean one more time.

 

damn im confused

 

Main Relay Terminals: For most Accords: While still connected to the vehicle check that:

1. Yel/blue should have +12 volts battery, always.
2. Blk should be grounded always. Connect your negative voltmeter or DMM lead here.
3. Blk/yel should have +12 volts with ignition ON.
4. Not used.
5. Yel/blk should be +12 volts with ignition ON.
6. Blu/Red (auto only) Blk/grn (manual only) should be +12 volts at START.
7. Yellow should have +12 volts temporary with ignition ON, if idling or start Yellow should have +12 volts.
8. Grn/blk should ground temporary with ignition ON or idling, if idling or start Grn/blk should ground.

If all readings are okay except on either terminal 3) ECU-Injector or terminal 7) Pump then the relay is dead.

 

thanks ill check it out tonight