I just changed my Clutch master cylinder and no matter how much I bleed it I get the same results, no pressure in the clutch pedal. HELP.

 

try letting it gravity bleed. crack the bottom screw and leave the cap off the resivoir.

 

make sure that there is actuially fluid in the resivoir itself, and not that someone left the rubber filler from the cap in the master. The new guy at work did that. when you take the cap off, is the rubber diaphram inside? If not, then you basically put the fluid in a sealed bag. sounds stupid, but it happens to the best of us.

 

how about the adjustment on the fork is it out far enough to whenyou step on the pedal it pushes in enough to get pressure

 

did you bench bleed the new master cylinder before you installed it?

 

I always use the reverse bleed method; big syringe from the farm supply store with tubing to the bleed screw on the slave; leave the clutch pedal on the floor; and shove fluid backwards thru the system from the slave to the master.
The brake fluid swells the rubber in the syringe plunger so they don't last long even cleaning them right away, but they are cheap enough.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlUAc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how about the adjustment on the fork is it out far enough to whenyou step on the pedal it pushes in enough to get pressure</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep checked that..it's as far as it goes

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_DC4_Fanatic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">make sure that there is actuially fluid in the resivoir itself, and not that someone left the rubber filler from the cap in the master. The new guy at work did that. when you take the cap off, is the rubber diaphram inside? If not, then you basically put the fluid in a sealed bag. sounds stupid, but it happens to the best of us.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea the fluid level on the resivoir is full, as for the rubber filler is the the cap that covers the opening for the hardline? I'm pretty sure i took that out before installing it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hecubus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you bench bleed the new master cylinder before you installed it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

what exactly is bench bleeding?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HDR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what exactly is bench bleeding?</TD></TR></TABLE>

it's where you bleed the MC before you install it into the car. saves a lot of time

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

it's where you bleed the MC before you install it into the car. saves a lot of time</TD></TR></TABLE>

oo I see. I don't think I did, but I did put some brake fluid in the MC before installing it.

 

for starters, make sure you're using DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid, I had a mechanic use performance brake fluid on my clutch and it jacked everything up, be payed for a steelbraided replacment since he couldn't figure out what was wrong.

Second, buy a one-man bleeder kit, it'll save you a lot of hassle, although I found I still needed 2 people, me mashing the crap out of the peddle as fast as I could pump it and someone watching my reservoir level to make sure it didn't empty out.

Once you get proper pressure inside the line you're going to suck fluid out of that reservoir like crazy.

The main technique to bleeding is the bleeder kit and how you mash the peddle.