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I have a 2002 Accord ex with about 189,000 miles and it keeps throwing a code for bank 1 sensor 1. Code P1167 detecting voltage B1 S1 oxygen sensor heater was not within acceptable limits.
I got one from autozone but the ones they have or can even get are entirely too short and pull the boot at the end of the sensor to greater than 90 degree angle. I opened the plastic container that holds all the wires leading there so that I could inspect them and pulled a little slack. Then I pulled the battery cables to touch them together to clear the check engine light. It stayed off on my way to autozone so I could code it and make sure it was gone. It was gone but the next day it came back on for the same code. I guess the wires shifted again. Since the dealership wants over $150 for OEM. I went and got some wire and crimps to extend the wires of the o2 sensor and no dice. I think I clipped a little more than the plastic shroud when I stripped the grey wire so there's a possibility with that one. Just a lot of bullsh** going on here and I can't pass inspection with that code not being worked out.
I was wondering if anyone has a diagram of where that o2 sensor wires go to and terminate so I can trace it out and inspect for any discontinuities of bad termination/securing. I sure don't wanna give a dealer a bunch of money for this. I know I can just trace it out from the connector but it's all packed so damn tight and I figured if any of you know where it goes or has a diagram, would make things a lot easier.
Side question. Will a longer wired sensor like the one for the cat downstream sensor work in this place or is the wiring nit compatible? What do you guys recommend would be my best DIY or paid option?
Denso is OEM, should be less expensive than genuine Honda.
For wiring diagrams go to bbind.com
Find my part at the denso website doesn't tell you the overall length of the sensor and it has Autozone listed to buy it locally. Autozone showed me the one that is a longer length than what they have but said they ca't even order it.
I haven't looked for it in the book yet but does it say what my engine code is? F23A4 or F23A5 does it even matter as far as this heated o2 sensor goes?
I'm thinking of going with rock auto to get a proper sensor because they aren't expensive.
I haven't looked for it in the book yet but does it say what my engine code is? F23A4 or F23A5 does it even matter as far as this heated o2 sensor goes?
I'm thinking of going with rock auto to get a proper sensor because they aren't expensive.
It matters. Look under the hood at the engine cover.
If it says "ULEV-vtec" you have the F23A4 engine.
The upstream sensor for the F23A4 would be the 234-9014 Denso.
It's $127 on amazon.
It matters. Look under the hood at the engine cover.
If it says "ULEV-vtec" you have the F23A4 engine.
The upstream sensor for the F23A4 would be the 234-9014 Denso.
It's $127 on amazon.
Yeah ULEV-VTEC. $127.00 is the cheapest I can find? I'll have to look around. Also I need to trace those wires out first to inspect for any discontinuities because that could possibly be the entire problem and I'd be spending money unnecessarily.
Does anyone know the steps to test the engine side wires and what ohms it should read? That would be my first step before visual inspection.
Yeah ULEV-VTEC. $127.00 is the cheapest I can find? I'll have to look around. Also I need to trace those wires out first to inspect for any discontinuities because that could possibly be the entire problem and I'd be spending money unnecessarily.
Does anyone know the steps to test the engine side wires and what ohms it should read? That would be my first step before visual inspection.
If you still have the original sensor (it's an Air/Fuel ratio sensor on the ULEV engine, not technically
an O2 sensor) - test the 2 black wires for resistance. Should be low ohms, not open circuit.
On the engine side, with KOEO, you should have 12V on one of the black wires. The other black wire
is PCM controlled ground. If you don't have 12V there, check Fuse 6 in the passenger side under dash fuse box.
Should have 12V on both sides of that fuse.
If you still have the original sensor (it's an Air/Fuel ratio sensor on the ULEV engine, not technically
an O2 sensor) - test the 2 black wires for resistance. Should be low ohms, not open circuit.
On the engine side, with KOEO, you should have 12V on one of the black wires. The other black wire
is PCM controlled ground. If you don't have 12V there, check Fuse 6 in the passenger side under dash fuse box.
Should have 12V on both sides of that fuse.
Correct. It's a fuel/air ratio sensor.
I don't have the sensor that came with it anymore but it would be irrelevant anyway.
I tested all 4 wires. I have 1 black w/white stripe, 1 white, 1 blue, and 1 red wire. I tested these wires with my ground probe on a body bolt and the all white wire was at 11.9V with very little voltage on the other 3. As far as ohms I don't recall the numbers but I don't think any were too high.I used the body bolt to test for ohms as well. I don't know how that test would properly be done because I have no idea there the other end of them are. I need to do it again tomorrow and move the bundle of wires around to see if there's a difference in readings in different positions. I will test them and give reading of each wire and the sequence. I will report back tomorrow to get your thoughts on those readings.
Whenever you see this you can reply how to properly test the ohms and I will then get to the testing to report back.
Thank you guys so much for the help. I'm in the middle preparing my house to put it on the market so my time is limited for the computer and every damn thing else.
I didn't realize there was a fuse box on the passenger side so thank you for that. Those fuses were all fine.
11.9V on the white wire is a little low, unless your battery is also low.
I would say that all you need is a new sensor.
I got 12v today when I knocked the rust off that body bolt down to bare metal.
Here's my readings. Blue wire top left on connector = .2 V, red top right =2V, black w/white stripe bottom left = 2.7V, white bottom right = 12V
It's not possible to test the ohms of the wire unless you can put a probe on each end of the wire. I think this is most likely a bad ground or a fracture in the wire but I don't know where it's grounded to and really don't feel like pulling the whole harness off to inspect the wires. I may have to wait till I get paid, bite the bullet and put it in the shop.
That second bbind web address you posted is functional but it says exceeded the download limit after each one you view so I could spend hours reloading the page and looking at each one to find the right one.
Not sure if it's allowed to link other url's but I found something that's helpful for all the diagnostics. This could help everyone understand all variable issues associated with this problem.
I have this same issue with my 02 accord 2.3l ulev vtec. Please let me know if you figure out the issue. So i have code p1167. I replaced the O2 sensor with Denso part number 234-9014 for ulev vtec f23a4 according to Honda, and autozone and it continued to have the same code. I diagnosed the sensors and turns out both are good. I found that there is a bad ground in the circuit, and the ground is computer controlled. So i thought i had a bad ECU. I got a good used one and had it reprogrammed by the dealer as it has immobilizer, hoping this will fix the issue but it didn't. I am down money pretty much for nothing. I am thinking maybe a body ground but cleaned 3 locations and no dice. One other thing, ive been seeing there is a relay to this air/fuel ratio sensor in the passengers side but i checked and there isnt one there. Maybe its hidden behind the passengers fuse box. Please help! Also need to pass smog this year.
That second bbind web address you posted is functional but it says exceeded the download limit after each one you view so I could spend hours reloading the page and looking at each one to find the right one.
blk/wht is pcm controlled ground at B19
I have used that site for years and never got a download limit message. Here is the one you want:
I have pulled these two relays or fuses, whatever they are [passenger fuse box]. I have no continuity between the blades on either of them. I think they may be relays so I checked ohms and my readings are below the picture.
# 17 4.85 ohms. writing on relay is [IDN 1.5] with --l>l-- symbol which makes sense because I can only get a reading with probes in one configuration
# 18 4.7 ohms. writing on relay is [IEU 1.5] with --l>l-- symbol which makes sense because I can only get a reading with probes in one configuration
this picture is for a 2001 F23A4. I don't know if there's a difference between 01 an 02 but where it says the taillight and heated oxygen sensor relays are. I guess that would be on the other side of the firewall.
I don't know if those are relays or fuses and should have any continuity between blades or not.
If those are bad and that's my whole problem then I'll be happy having sorted all this out.
weigh in and let me know what you guys know about these #17 and #18 in the passenger fuse box
So i have managed to find the relay for the taillight and the heated air/fuel ratio sensor. Both relays seem to be the same part numbers. CM1aF-R-12V // ACM32221 M01, this is the part number on the relay. The location is on right kick panel https://www.justanswer.com/uploads/lorunner/2009-06-10_134219_o2_relay.PNG
i have yet to test the relays. Ive also found a TSB that claims the Black and Yellow alternator wire may cause a short to ground and set off certain codes. Including p1167 for ulev vtec engines. I also have yet to test this wire for continuity. Will keep you updated.
So i have managed to find the relay for the taillight and the heated air/fuel ratio sensor. Both relays seem to be the same part numbers. CM1aF-R-12V // ACM32221 M01, this is the part number on the relay. The location is on right kick panel https://www.justanswer.com/uploads/l...9_o2_relay.PNG
i have yet to test the relays. Ive also found a TSB that claims the Black and Yellow alternator wire may cause a short to ground and set off certain codes. Including p1167 for ulev vtec engines. I also have yet to test this wire for continuity. Will keep you updated.
I don't get a pic in the link you provided. It's a blank screen pretty much. I'll look into the alternator wire.
Also suggest getting a bluetooth OBD2 dongle ($15 on 3bay) and installing torque on your phone. It will read the o2 sensor voltage level and plot it so you can see if its responding to throttle inputs.
Also suggest getting a bluetooth OBD2 dongle ($15 on 3bay) and installing torque on your phone. It will read the o2 sensor voltage level and plot it so you can see if its responding to throttle inputs.
What "bluetooth OBD2 dongle" of quality is suggested from Amazon? I have prime so free shipping and prices are usually cheaper but I have no clue what manufacturer or model will be reliable.
I have one of these in each of my cars and they work great. Some, like the cheap elm units, don't properly implement the interface spec. This one does. For anyone buying on 3bay, be forewarned, there are cheap knockoffs for sale that don't work properly.
To fix the p1167 heater circuit malfunction code you simply need to change the primary Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor (confused as, but not the same as an oxygen sensor). This sensor has to be OEM First Time Fit Denso. For my 02 Accord 4 cyl ULEV VTEC F23A4 part # is 234-9014. This will work for 98-02 similar engine. If not sure, call a dealer and ask given your VIN #. be careful buying from online like ebay or amazon. There are sensors that look the same but are knockoffs. They will have the part # etched onto them. In this case, 234-9014. Denso never puts the part number on the oxygen sensors only on the box or bag. Hope this helps anyone. YouTube how to replace. Easy to replace can save you a bunch of money for labor repairs...
09-27-2018, 09:49 PM
2002 accord ex 4 cylinder wiring diagram
