Hondojoe11

I went out yesterday and found four things not working:

1. None of the 4 power windows work (23-250 in service manual)
2. The engine temperature gauge does not come up (23-138 in service manual)
3. The speedometer does not work. (23-132 in service manual) The VSS sounds like a toughie as it's under a lot
of stuff on the passenger side and I assume the sender just plugs into it?
4. The clock does not work. (23-218 in service manual)

Update: I now have the service manual pages - I think I should start with the speedometer tomorrow, although I should first check ground G401 as it seems to be pretty common to the stuff that failed and I did NOT replace
that ground 2 years ago. Hmpph, maybe? 30% chance? I also know that the speed sensor is near the temperature sensor. But the clock? Hmm?

Two years ago, I had to rewire much of the inside of the car and it took me 31 days due to animals that had chewed through the wires.
This new situation may or may not be due to them. But the fact that three suddenly stopped at the same time suggests that one of the
problems (perhaps speedometer) is affecting the other. I can't say as I don't know enough. I DO know that I will need to check grounds
G401 - G404, particularly G401 and G403. I don't think that this is a fuse or relay issue but I will continue checking them. I've started
that and so far I've found nothing fuse-wise. But I will do a more thorough check ASAP.

So I wonder where to begin. And I also wonder - if I were to bypass the connection from the relay under the hood, perhaps I could either
use a bypass ground or a bypass battery voltage or both. I am almost sure it's not the master switch. It's just some wiring problem as
I had two years ago, only with other systems being chewed through. Now, it's also possible that it's the speedometer cable or something,
it's not impossible that something was pulled on by some tree branch or whatever while driving.

I have the schematics for my car so at least I can begin reading chapter 23-250, etc.. I'm not worried about having the right service manual.

But I'm wondering, should I try to fix this or just develop a bypass. And if I bypass (at first I mean, just to get the windows going up and down), would
it be better to do each window one at time, or should I try to simply get power to the master switch by testing the ground and power coming
in. One quick question that comes up - should I measure the voltage at the GRN/WHT and pray that it's not getting there, then just bypass
that. I don't know how hard it is to get to the G401, page 23-25 - it's kind of up above? the under-dash fuse box on the left. And I guess G403 is the one I repaired two years ago, page 23-27, it's on the right. I can get to this stuff if I strain a bit so I will eventually check them.

But wow, this one is going to be tiring due to the bending my body in there. I have to get psyched up for this. G404 and G405 are in the middle
of the car and probably not involved.

Well, any ideas if this is just the speedometer messing everything else up, I'd appreciate it. I realize it's hard when you're not used to having
animals running in and out of your car. I keep meaning to pull my back panels and put rubber grommets in to block them. Just hadn't gotten that done.

I have not seen MUCH evidence of chewing this time other than a tiny bit in the rear where there are holes they can climb through but I fixed
those a couple weeks ago.

Well, wish me luck, and thanks for any advice.

Update:
PS - Speaking of advice, I am getting ready to read the below post by a 1993 Honda owner who had similar troubles:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...nents-3307334/

Unfortunately, noone responded to his post.

Hondojoe11

Tomorrow's plan:
1. Check ground G401 and possibly G403.
2. If they're ok, inspect No. 1 10A fuse in under-dash. I did not
check this today so that can be done.
3. Pull the VSS 3-P connector off and turn ignition on.
See if I have battery voltage across YEL and BLK.
For 3., I will need to unhook the air-hose so I can reach down and get
at the connector. The speed sensor is probably ok so I won't need a bunch of
extenders and a socket.

For locations and diagrams I'm adding 23-124 and 23-134.

holmesnmanny

Check all fuses in the engine bay fuse box assembly and in the drive side kickboard fuse box assembly for continuity. Don't just try to eyeball them. Use a multimeter on the continuity beep setting to confirm. If they check out then it's likely a ground is hanging loose somewhere. I've had the backup switch that sits on top of the tranny break off and touch ground that caused the 10a fuse in the drive side kickboard to blow. Check that first.

tech8

Probably just an issue with under-dash Fuse No. 1.

Hondojoe11

Funny, when I did the under-dash briefly, I did NOT check No. 1, only 10 I believe. I forget.
I can redo that. I checked the speedo sender, and the cable looks normal - so it's not the speedo
being yanked out and shorting. When I shined the light, I did NOT yet see the ETS - the electronic
temperature sensor wiring - I'll have to try that one again. I want to check those, then fuses, then
I might try "locally" grounding the power windows in case I lost G401. Today I had to build a door
for a little shelf - I need to organize my tools - whew, it's a bit messy, but not too bad. But yeah, if
a fuse is blown, it could point towards a short. It's funny, I had to replace over 70 wires two years
ago, but not even one fuse was blown despite both open-circuits AND shorts occurring. Animal
chew mostly leads to open circuits except near bare metal, which DOES occur all over the car.

I'm pretty sure it's not ICU control signal related. Knock on wood on that one. I'm starting to
get psyched for this one - it takes me a while. At least I bought every last tool I need to do
the job two years ago which was gigantic in scope

Hondojoe11

Under-dash fuse No. 1 connects to a yellow wire which connects to many of the gauges in the dashboard. If
No. 1 was burnt out, everything would stop working. The fact that my fuel gauge is still working, suggests that it's
not that fuse.

I am cleaning up my garage some so I can get to my tools but it's looking more like grounds and supply wires broken somewhere.
I'll check the fuses but it's not likely that.

Hondojoe11

When I get to this, I may just want to use a continuity checker and look for a break in a wire. Can also look for shorts.

Hondojoe11

I finally got back to this after a long while not worrying about it. Had too many other things to do, and no room to work. So I pulled the car out of
the garage and pulled the under-dash fuse cover off, took a fuse puller and removed No. 1 fuse which is a red 10A. The meter stayed on 1 which is infinite - I was in disbelief as at one point I had thought my fuel gauge had been working. Perhaps I was mistaken.

It turns out that it WAS the under-dash No. 1 fuse. On my car, it just says something very simple such as backup lights and relay timer but
in my service manual it's obvious that it will cause the fuel gauge, ECT, odometer/speedo, and clock to fail, among other things. But I hadn't
expected my windows to stop for that reason. But perhaps I need to study all the circuits closer as I believe the ECM/PCM or ICU is connected
to that. I forget.

So you were right.

Before, I put the new fuse in, I looked for shorts near my trailer hitch cable which had some minor baring of wires so perhaps that was it. Perhaps it
was just some water than got in there. Perhaps there is still some intermittent thing but so far everything is working.