The Official EF Discussion Thread
delima...
would you buy a B16 transmission from someone that is 45 minutes away and has no problems for $300 or would you pay $400 for a B17 transmission that needs seals replaced and is 2.5 hrs away?
would you buy a B16 transmission from someone that is 45 minutes away and has no problems for $300 or would you pay $400 for a B17 transmission that needs seals replaced and is 2.5 hrs away?
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,113
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From: Roseville really smells like poo, pooo, pooo, CA
20 year old transmission. You don't know what condition its in and how beat up it is. More then likely you are going to have to look into synchros if worse case scenerio hubs and shift forks and seal kit. A Rebuilt ys1 transmission from gearspeed/synchrotech is $995.
I would go for the cheaper one just because that more money you have to rebuild it.
thats the same thing I'm going through right now. I have two trannys. One I purchased for cheap just to rebuild and good thing I did because it needs all the stuff listed above. If the price ends up being around the same price as a new one I'm just going to get a rebuilt one.
For $300 he better be popping that thing open for you to check it out.
yeah, i hate fog too. and stock honda headlights aren't exactly the best ones to drive in that **** with either. well, older honda's like ef's and da's anyway.
So I just got back from a 2 hour touge run courtesy of highway 49 and 193 what a blast. But my car is actually oversteering. Except when under acceleration of course. Good ole h2b.
I'm trying to figure out why. Here's my setup as far as suspension goes:
-Tein ss. Full stiff in the rear and full soft up front
-jaknife m8 16x7 with I think +42 offset?
-falken azenis rt615 215/45/16 with about 90% tread left
-function/form rear lca's
-ebay rear lower tie bar
-no sway bars whatsoever and all bushings are stock.
-front camber at around -2.5 with da knuckles and brakes.
People say h2b or h22 swaps in general are front heavy which is probably true since the crx is front heavy from factory. So I have 7 lb flywheel, cf hood, jdm front end(plastic headlights instead of metal/glass, no bumper support) battery relocated to the rear, esp traction bars (blah) and headers. I'm hoping this offsets the weight imbalance but I won't know until I get corner weighted.
The rear got pretty out of shape on a couple of the lower speed transitions when I wasn't on the gas. I'm wondering if a nice rear sway would fix this?
I'm trying to figure out why. Here's my setup as far as suspension goes:
-Tein ss. Full stiff in the rear and full soft up front
-jaknife m8 16x7 with I think +42 offset?
-falken azenis rt615 215/45/16 with about 90% tread left
-function/form rear lca's
-ebay rear lower tie bar
-no sway bars whatsoever and all bushings are stock.
-front camber at around -2.5 with da knuckles and brakes.
People say h2b or h22 swaps in general are front heavy which is probably true since the crx is front heavy from factory. So I have 7 lb flywheel, cf hood, jdm front end(plastic headlights instead of metal/glass, no bumper support) battery relocated to the rear, esp traction bars (blah) and headers. I'm hoping this offsets the weight imbalance but I won't know until I get corner weighted.
The rear got pretty out of shape on a couple of the lower speed transitions when I wasn't on the gas. I'm wondering if a nice rear sway would fix this?
with only a rear sway your car will only oversteer more. you should get a dx or si front sway, and st rear. it will still be manageable but ive never driven with out sway bars so i dont know how that is.
I have my stock dx front sway with prothane bushings sitting around. But I've always thought it was better to learn to drive without one up front. Don't they add to understeer?




