When you guys do rhd conversions do you normally switch the Key hole handle or jump in through your passenger side..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JKGONZALEZ3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">vega box is that your valve cover in the import tuner mag?</TD></TR></TABLE>


if its a baller *** Nintendo VC then yes sir

I have seen it yet though


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HatchMo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://fastbrakes.com/shop/pro...d=291

uhhh i want this so bad. 685 is freaking cheap!</TD></TR></TABLE>


and why the hell do you need brakes that big

 

Look what I finally got back from the machine shop!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vega_box &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and why the hell do you need brakes that big</TD></TR></TABLE>

Waaay too big unless you have BIG power. Otherwise it's unecessary sprung weight dawg.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You'll lose 10-15 wheel horsepower with all that rotational weight.


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People rarely think about that part.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rexman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Waaay too big unless you have BIG power. Otherwise it's unecessary sprung weight dawg. </TD></TR></TABLE>

what is a good brake upgrade to go with on an ef that isnt too overkill?

that kit is nice b/c its all bolt on.. but seems like it could stop a school bus!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rexman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Waaay too big unless you have BIG power. Otherwise it's unecessary sprung weight dawg. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Even so. A set of DA sized crossdrilled/slotted discs at all 4 corners, a good set of pads and stainless lines is plenty on a 2,200 lb car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -NA-aLL-thE-wAy- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Overkill, man. You'll lose 10-15 wheel horsepower with all that rotational weight. Just get some Brembo x-drilled or blanks with some high quality pads.

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Wait...WHAT? What are you guys talking about? All that rotational weight? Please explain. The rotors are hardly heavier than stock, the dogbones weigh maybe 8oz. each and the calipers are extremely light.

Oh, and my dyno number before and after my switch to the 11" rotors and wilwoods did not change. Please don't spread misinformation. Additionally, cross drilled rotors are a horrible idea. They heat up, they crack, and thus cause problems.

I run the wilwoods with the 11" corrado rotors. Hawk HPS on street, Blue's on track. I also run r*compounds on track. Big brakes + sticky r*compounds = incredible braking force without locking them up. It basically sucks my eyeballs out of their sockets when I brake.

 

Typically when switching to a larger rotor it will be heavier in weight compared to whatever stock (smaller) rotor you had on there. Again, typically that translates into additional rotational mass and will require more energy (hp or whatever) to rotate. Now, if u have 2 piece rotors with an aluminum hat, your weight savings is dramatically reduced. Either way, in a typical situation, switching to larger rotors on honda, you will have lost some hp. Not every situation is the same, which is why i used the terms "typically" and "generally", lol.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Typically when switching to a larger rotor it will be heavier in weight compared to whatever stock (smaller) rotor you had on there. Again, typically that translates into additional rotational mass and will require more energy (hp or whatever) to rotate. Now, if u have 2 piece rotors with an aluminum hat, your weight savings is dramatically reduced. Either way, in a typical situation, switching to larger rotors on honda, you will have lost some hp. Not every situation is the same, which is why i used the terms "typically" and "generally", lol. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I understand what you're saying, but my statements weren't targeted towards you. You simply stated that most people don't think about that...which is true. I went with the corrado blanks because they are cost effective. My track pads TEAR UP my rotors so those two-piece rotors are not an option for me. The weight difference in rotors becomes negligible when you realize the full potential of larger rotors (and better calipers and r-compounds, etc., etc.) on track.

 

oh yea i hear ya, the advantage you are getting negates the loss of hp (if any). I have a feeling you lost something as far as power is concerned when going to the larger rotor. I really doubt your dyno sheet was exactly the same, afterall, you had to re-dyno on a different day i assume ? This situation can be compared to losing a few peak hp to broaden your mid range power curve. Same difference, and some may think its worth it while others dont.

It still cant be denied that ANY additonal rotational mass steals hp.

And btw, if i recall correctly u have the JG header right? Did u modify the the collector on it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh yea i hear ya, the advantage you are getting negates the loss of hp (if any). I have a feeling you lost something as far as power is concerned when going to the larger rotor. I really doubt your dyno sheet was exactly the same, afterall, you had to re-dyno on a different day i assume ? This situation can be compared to losing a few peak hp to broaden your mid range power curve. Same difference, and some may think its worth it while others dont.

It still cant be denied that ANY additonal rotational mass steals hp.

And btw, if i recall correctly u have the JG header right? Did u modify the the collector on it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Noted, noted, and noted. I'm not denying the rotational mass argument at all. I just believe it doesn't make THAT much of a difference. My statement about my HP numbers is flawed in many ways (same kind of dyno, but different dynos and a different header the second time around along with the deletion of a catalytic converter) but there certainly wasn't a 10-15hp loss in power. And no, I didn't modify the collector...I should have, but I didn't. My set-up will remain in the state it is until it blows up. Then I'm going K20