Offical eH squad list.
You don't need to take them off the car to adjust the height. This is how you do it:
1. Loosen the shock mount perch which in the picture above is gold (counterclockwise- hit it with a flathead and hammer as the spanner wrench that comes with it doesn't actually fit)
2. Using the spanner wrench, spin one of the 2 top red perches clockwise to lower or counterclockwise to raise. They are locked against each other so it doesn't matter. You won't be compressing the spring because since they are both locked, what actually spins is the shock. Alternatively you could also just twist the shocks with your hands if you're using some mechanics gloves.
3. Once the desired height is achieved, lock the shock mount perch back again (clockwise) and you are done.
What happens is that a lot of people get those 2 upper perches loosened and compress the spring to lower it and that isn't how you do it, it will ride like poop and be bouncy/make noises. I'm not sure what to say about your shocks bottoming out if you didn't change the preload, what is bottoming anyways? Are you sure its the shock and not the upper control arm? Because of the stiff rates you can ride low since the suspension doesn't have as much travel which is a good thing for those who want to be lower.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 10,475
Likes: 0
From: Working in the NRBG, Garage
lol you Koni guys don't know about the other side of the fence.
You don't need to take them off the car to adjust the height. This is how you do it:
1. Loosen the shock mount perch which in the picture above is gold (counterclockwise- hit it with a flathead and hammer as the spanner wrench that comes with it doesn't actually fit)
2. Using the spanner wrench, spin one of the 2 top red perches clockwise to lower or counterclockwise to raise. They are locked against each other so it doesn't matter. You won't be compressing the spring because since they are both locked, what actually spins is the shock. Alternatively you could also just twist the shocks with your hands if you're using some mechanics gloves.
3. Once the desired height is achieved, lock the shock mount perch back again (clockwise) and you are done.
What happens is that a lot of people get those 2 upper perches loosened and compress the spring to lower it and that isn't how you do it, it will ride like poop and be bouncy/make noises. I'm not sure what to say about your shocks bottoming out if you didn't change the preload, what is bottoming anyways? Are you sure its the shock and not the upper control arm? Because of the stiff rates you can ride low since the suspension doesn't have as much travel which is a good thing for those who want to be lower.
You don't need to take them off the car to adjust the height. This is how you do it:
1. Loosen the shock mount perch which in the picture above is gold (counterclockwise- hit it with a flathead and hammer as the spanner wrench that comes with it doesn't actually fit)
2. Using the spanner wrench, spin one of the 2 top red perches clockwise to lower or counterclockwise to raise. They are locked against each other so it doesn't matter. You won't be compressing the spring because since they are both locked, what actually spins is the shock. Alternatively you could also just twist the shocks with your hands if you're using some mechanics gloves.
3. Once the desired height is achieved, lock the shock mount perch back again (clockwise) and you are done.
What happens is that a lot of people get those 2 upper perches loosened and compress the spring to lower it and that isn't how you do it, it will ride like poop and be bouncy/make noises. I'm not sure what to say about your shocks bottoming out if you didn't change the preload, what is bottoming anyways? Are you sure its the shock and not the upper control arm? Because of the stiff rates you can ride low since the suspension doesn't have as much travel which is a good thing for those who want to be lower.
I was a lot lower on my old setup and nothing hit... so I don't think it's the UCA.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/vivalarevels/6292574505/
I was almost tucking wheel on my old setup as opposed to just tucking tire on this new setup.
I was almost tucking wheel on my old setup as opposed to just tucking tire on this new setup.
Are all your bushings in good shape? Sway bar end links? Did you change to some aftermarket upper control arms? Everything tight? I wouldn't think it would be the shocks unless you got a blown one from the factory or if the preload was improperly set. I had ff's on my sedan and never made a single noise and I was tuckin about half of my 205/50r15's sidewall.
Are all your bushings in good shape? Sway bar end links? Did you change to some aftermarket upper control arms? Everything tight? I wouldn't think it would be the shocks unless you got a blown one from the factory or if the preload was improperly set. I had ff's on my sedan and never made a single noise and I was tuckin about half of my 205/50r15's sidewall.
Nothing changed at all.
Simply took the old setup out and put the FFs in.
Maybe I am old and stupid, but I don't understand why they are adjusted that way. Isn't that making the stroke of the damper rod shorter by doing so? Why do you need said preload anyway? When is the next time he is going to be doing General Lee stunts? I'm going to guess never. I had KSports on the sedan and adjusted the lower spring perch. I rode a lot better than I would have expected for such a "low" car.
It allows you to position the piston into a specific location inside the shock. Why do you think lowering springs on a stock shock causes the shock to pop? The piston is seated too low inside the shocks causing too much pressure on the seals. Same concept here. Taking the bind off of the spring by loosening the spring perch will allow the car to ride "smoother", yes, but it may be detrimental to the health of the shock.
Ah, I think I am picturing it in my head now. Due to keeping the "preload" or spring length the same and moving the "fork", it effectively keeps the damper rod the "correct" length.
Yeah, for the most parts, shocks are designed to work in a certain range of their stroke. With the types where you can adjust ride height with the shock body rather than moving the perch, you don't effect that range by adjusting them. But if you move the spring perches, you're taking away the available stroke in one direction of the other. The preload itself doesn't really do that much since the car still compresses the springs once it's on the ground, so it's more a fact of moving that travel range towards one end of the stroke or the other. But if you increase the preload so much that the springs don't compress any due to the weight of the car (preload>corner weight) then you're in for a really rough ride.
Yep.
First time at VIR, wow, what a facility, let alone the track!! Big ***** track, huge *****, it makes Mid Ohio look mild.


https://vimeo.com/77152223
First time at VIR, wow, what a facility, let alone the track!! Big ***** track, huge *****, it makes Mid Ohio look mild.


https://vimeo.com/77152223
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 10,475
Likes: 0
From: Working in the NRBG, Garage
lol
looked fun
Yep.
First time at VIR, wow, what a facility, let alone the track!! Big ***** track, huge *****, it makes Mid Ohio look mild.


https://vimeo.com/77152223
First time at VIR, wow, what a facility, let alone the track!! Big ***** track, huge *****, it makes Mid Ohio look mild.


https://vimeo.com/77152223










