Lol ya i saw the other one too. Crazy *** ****. I like how they are hangin out the window with the SprayK-47 goin BRRRRRRAp!

 

and one of my all time favorites crazy car driving videos....i know its old .....how to change your tire without a jack at 3:20min


oops forgot the link

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exrXlL17gpU

 

GTFO!!!!!

 

holy moly.

 

wtf just happened. lol.

weird vid fer real.

 

wtfffff!

 

OMFGoshWTFAYFFMRN?!?!?!?!?

^that should have been my initial response.

 

that was my initial response....lol

im supprised you guys never saw that, that clip is old as dirt

 

I'm newb to the interwebz.

 

Round 2 with my climate control

 

Herro guys.

 

Pit stain undershirt.

 

:p

Sold my carbon fiber duckbill within 24 hours. Happy about that. Tomorrow Ill find another item to sell out of the basement. Slowly parting with all the parts of the hatch.

 

This is a question for braptastic but anyone else can answer if they please.

I'm looking at new springs for my progress coilovers but i'm slighty confused how they are rated. I currently have 450lb springs in the rear. I noticed some drag kits come with 16-18k sets in the rear that are about 1000lbs, when they rate them that way, do they mean 1000lb each spring or 1000 total? Now that I think about it, 2000lb in the rear sounds pretty retarded lol.

I guess I have another question that maybe someone here can solve. When I launch my car, my front end kinda lifts and lifts when I shift. Are my current rears to stiff? or is my front off? I have 350lb front springs.

Thanks in advance!!!

 

To answer your first question, they are rated for each spring. 1000lbs of force is required to compress the spring 1 inch.

 

Not retarded....made for an intended purpose....aka they are specifically designed for drag racing

When the rear end squats on a rwd it applys added downforce for traction...when the rear end squats on a fwd it is transfering the weight to the rear wheels and off of the front where its needed for traction

To answer your question are your rears to stiff .... No they are soft that's why your front lifts on launch and shifts

 

I still street drive my car. It appears I will need another set of coilovers for raaacin.

 

Ya Scott is right. When running the car at the 1320, you need to keep weight forward on a fwd car.

I have OMNI Power coilovers. 10k in the front and 12k in the rear. Its not "ideal" for the track but seemed to work fine. It was pretty decent on the street as well. A little bouncy but thats because they probably arent adjusted right

 

i haven't gotten into to many technical discussions in a while. so, i might get carried away. i also numbered the different questions for easier discussion.

1. you would have to check with progress to see what rates they could handle. my guess is that they picked a rate and designed the damper around that. so, my guess would be, you won't be able to go much higher than that.

but, i have a solution, nascar-ish if you will. you could source some long bumpstops or stack short ones and use those as "spring". the reason i say this is, you can jack the rear end of the car up at the track and throw them on. then when it is time to leave, you can simply remove them and drive back home, "comfortably".

2. scott pointed this out earlier. it is the dynamics of any car to lift the front under acceleration, which also is why you "nose dive" under throttle lift or braking.

i wouldn't say your front is "off", but i am surprised at that rate the car doesn't wheel hop. also remember, the car will react different given a "typical" street tire opposed to a drag radial or slick. the tire itself acts as a spring too, so given construction of a tire will cause different dynamics per tire.

i have told avijit this before. if i were to have a ff drag car, my alignment would look similar to this.

front toe: 0
front camber: around negative .5*

rear toe: zero or barely a fraction in.
rear camber: zero.

i also would get the front as low as possible without rubbing tires on body parts. and, to that, i see a lot of ff drag car with big slicks on the front and whatever on the rear. normally that causes the front of the car to be higher than the rear. as you mentioned before, when you get on the throttle the front lifts. well, the front is already high, so now it is acting as a "parachute" which will "help" keep the front up. the theory in my head says "noooooo" because you want the air over the car, not under. which could lead to flat floors, high downforce cars etc, but there my thoughts would not be the same. i am strictly speaking towards a ff civic in "stockish" form.

 

Very good Brap.

I will say this tho.. You prob want to have your front toe set a little toe'd in. Just on the "toe'd in" side of spec. That will help the car track straight and more stable at higher speeds. Helped my car a **** ton this past season.

 

kyle quinn quote.

 

Jyes. Also some stuff I learned in the Drag Racing section

Caster forward and traction bars help alot as well. Let me know if you need a hookup on some trac bars.

 

I was gonna pick up a full race bar. My car its set up with .5 Toe in front as you accelerate, the front wheels pull back which would 0 it out under acceleration. Camber on the other hand was like 1.5 due to not having a camber kit. Thanks for the info guys, i'm probably gonna get blox drag coil overs. Don't want to ride on stiff springs when I do street drive it.

 

yes, traction bars are doing somewhat of the same thing a anti roll bar would do. the traction bars would be a lot "stiffer" because there is no "twisting" from one arm to the other.

caster forward, i am confused. caster is read in positive and negative. forward, as in the wheel moves forward or the suspension mounting point moves forward? there is really no way in stock form to adjust caster on a civic. maybe shim the sub frame, or in your case shorten the heim joints on the traction bar to pull the wheels forward. but, then you are only "adding" caster because of the deflection through the suspension bushings.

kyle's/your point is correct with a bit of toe in. but, with limited slip and a well setup car, zero would work just fine. if the car had a soft rear and the front lifted as described earlier, then you would want to add some toe in to "correct" the front end lifting.

 

Ya you are just pulling the wheels forward with the bars. I didnt do it on mine simply because to me, it seemed like alot of unnecessary stress on the stock components.