Ok so here is teh plan for my wiring.

[AUX High beams]_____ \___[parking lights] (so they can be on all the time if the lights are on but on a switch so I can pass inspection.)

[AUX low beams]______[EDM rear fog]_______[Factory switch.] Since im not going to be using the high beams in bad weather/fog to me this makes perfect sense.

Thoughts?

 

so aux are on high beams as soon as you turn on any lights
parking/interior lights --- low beams --- high beams = always on no matter what

but lower the output and switch to low beam when you turn on the rear fog
which I'm assuming would only happen when you're driving with at least parking lights but more likely low beams...

do you already have wiring all figured out?
cause it seems a bit tricky confusing...but if all mapped out and planned it shouldn't be too hard (i could help if you needed but doubt it)
and usdm aux switch controls the auxes and you have an edm rear fog switch to control the rear fog/low beam of aux or you trying to control both with one switch somehow?

i would just have low and high on the aux to the low and high of the headlights
or have high to high but have low of the aux connected to parking lights if you wanted the auxes on without the headlights being on...

another thing you could do is have low of aux to parking/low beam of headlights (whether you want then on w/o the headlights or not)
but have high beam on a switch?

just some ideas...not sure exactly how you want it or what would be most practical for you...


Modified by mugen-k at 11:08 AM 4/24/2008

 

What im trying to do is not add more than one switch in teh cabin.

For instance (and I need to check this before I finalize and waste a day on wiring) as long as the output for the aux highbeams isnt too aweful obnoxious to have on all the time, I want to have the high aux wired so I can switch it on if any lights are on. (high low parking) For one I think it looks great to have parking + aux on with no headlights. and I would also like to have better output on the low beams in good weather just because I cant for some reason get my AUX lights aimed any higher. (probably time to take them out and find out whats wrong.)

However I only want the low aux and the rear fog on when the low beams are on. like it is from the factory now. This is because even when i have the high beams on I will not want to use the rear fog just because its a bad weather safty device. and i dont know about you but I dont burn the high beams in fog The only problem is I might have to put a safeguard to prevend both high and low aux on at the same time.

Dose that make anymore sence?


/mugenkstylepost

 

yep

should be easy then
only problem which you already mentioned and are aware of:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .Sarge. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only problem is I might have to put a safeguard to prevend both high and low aux on at the same time.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
the one i thought of
but i think there is a simple way to get around it and solve it.

 

cobalt wheels page 3192

what's up fellas..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JtriX21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cobalt wheels page 3192

what's up fellas.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yours look 100x better. Gotta love the biters of course I haven't seen something original in the honda world for quite some time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mugen-k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
thats what i figured
but its what you use to turn on your edm glass auxes or no?
didn't see/notice/remember you having the jdm aux switch by the ebrake like you said...

and i figured the right side was just defroster and hazard on yours
so you basically kept everything edm lhd
and have switches for exactly what you need

i just need rhd hazard and defrost to make it all jdm rhd and have everything i need since I don't have aux lights or cruise control...
but then again, I almost like how it is all black the way it is now w/o red...</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i still use the USDM Aux Light switch to turn on my EDM Aux Lights ..and all my switches have been the same for years, just for some odd reason i dont have many interior pics lol..

i got the JDM Aux Light switch by the e-brake just to fill in that block off plate

correct ..all my switches are for a LHD vehicle ..aside from my JDM Optional Fog Light switch(the one in between the radio and shifter)

i removed my cruise control a long time ago as well..but i like what youre doing by adding your own functions to the switches

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .Sarge. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yours look 100x better. Gotta love the biters of course I haven't seen something original in the honda world for quite some time. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Doesn't really help that there's only a few variations of modding AND that honda mass produces all of it's vehicles. If there was different styles AND honda didn't mass produce it's vehicles then there might be a chance for clean looking originality but, because of those 2 statements it is very hard to do anything original(and keep it clean) to hondas....or most other cars meant to be cheap econo-boxes for that matter

 

yeah my motor is fuxxored..dropped a valve..2 cylinders werent getting any compression..might be more to it..blah..

 

Skunk2 pro series intake mani $210 BNIB
Good deal?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOLtrain "tiiiteboyee" &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah my motor is fuxxored..dropped a valve..2 cylinders werent getting any compression..might be more to it..blah..</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

oh noes!

sorry to hear that man...

i've seen the carnage dropped valves create ... not pretty at all

 

damn, sorry to hear Chacha

 

got some leftover sol and gsr stuff for you guys. check the sig!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOLtrain "tiiiteboyee" &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah my motor is fuxxored..dropped a valve..2 cylinders werent getting any compression..might be more to it..blah..</TD></TR></TABLE>

you gonna rebuild sash?

well one of my friends had his perfectly stock EBP Si stolen and stripped.


Modified by .Sarge. at 1:33 PM 4/24/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by del_barry &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Skunk2 pro series intake mani $210 BNIB
Good deal?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

pretty high IMO. Get a AEBS....not as pretty, but performs slightly better and is signifigantly cheaper.

BUT&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt; learn from my mistake when I had the b16/hatch.....CAMS before IM.....I lost about 3-9whp up till 4500ish rpm and only gained about 4-6whp beyond that(similar results alos occured with other people who got a performance IMN before cams).....with cams that IM would've really rocked the **** out of the #s(it was fully port matched)

sasha sorry to hear man....time to go forged rods/pistons(assuming the cylinder walls are still useable ), and BOOST!!!!!!!

 

sucks chacha, but you can come back if juan came back from what he went through

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by broketuner-Sol_Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pretty high IMO. Get a AEBS....not as pretty, but performs slightly better and is signifigantly cheaper.

BUT&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt; learn from my mistake when I had the b16/hatch.....CAMS before IM.....I lost about 3-9whp up till 4500ish rpm and only gained about 4-6whp beyond that(similar results alos occured with other people who got a performance IMN before cams).....with cams that IM would've really rocked the **** out of the #s(it was fully port matched)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't care if its shaped like a big ole turd
I'm gonna build the head before it goes in the teg
Trying to round up parts as I sell my current crap

 

going NA or turbo?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohc95vtec-t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
suspension bling is ok i want functon7 lcas </TD></TR></TABLE>

Send me a message! ~&gt; Maybe we can work something out! I'm located East of Tampa!

 

so much ballin in that pic it aint even funny

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by broketuner-Sol_Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">going NA or turbo?</TD></TR></TABLE>
NA sir

Well acura didn't have the bolt instock
And it was $10.50
But I got the remaining 9 pages for my foglight instructions


Modified by del_barry at 3:11 PM 4/24/2008

 

hmm on a GSR.... depends on your budget but:
-3" intake
-65-68mm TB(or overbored stock TB from maxbore)
-Portmatched IM(or cut open and port runner entrances as well if you got $$$ for the extra whp)
-port/polish(KEY to decent NA build)
-valvetrain
-FLAT FACED valves
-Cams
-SLIGHTLY thinner HG
-TRUE Tri Y race header (better low-mid than conventional 4-1......better mid-high then conventional 4-2-1)
-free flowing 2.5-3"(depnds on what you want) mandrel bent exhaust

if you wanted to build up the block, I'd go with 81.5 ITR pistons

overall fairly cheap build capable of mid-high 180ish(AT LEAST) whp

 

B20 block w/b16 head
Ditching the stock b18b

 

hey Barry, you interested in a B20 block bored to 84.5mm by RS Machines(never used since its been bored)?

i also have;
ACL Race Bearings
84.5mm Spark Racing pistons
Eagle Rods
SS VTEC oil line direct to oil filter(comes with all fittings)
Micropolished and Balanced B20 crank
Brand new piston rings

all things listed above are BNIB NEVER USED!!

all for $1600 picked up(if you come to Eibach)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by del_barry &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B20 block w/b16 head
Ditching the stock b18b</TD></TR></TABLE>

for some reason I thought your teg was a GSR...oh well. in that case same deal but make the pistons 84.5 mm itr replicas by RS Machine but the replacing of the pistons is pretty much mandatory with frankenstein motors to get decent power out of them

just remember when you go to build it make sure to clay the motor