^mine too lol i loved that car...hated hitting vtec on lane changes tho...kiled gas like a ****

 

Man have not posted on HT in forever...must have been at least a year or so not...good to know us DA owner's are still out there and chatting it up!

As said above, ***LONG LIVE THE DA***

--Danny

 

Herb your a lying fool and you know it...the only time you hit VTAK is in your dreams :-D

 

So I am trekking up to Carlisle Saturday, anyone else going to Innovatives Dyno day?

 

Weren't you suppose to go to Import alliance last summer??? You flaked and never called to say you weren't going and to this day still haven't got a phone call

 

LOL...i told Jimmy that I was going to go but i couldnt because of many reasons...the chief reason being I basically run a route for Canada Dry in the Summer and I am on call...No lie I have called you a couple of times and you refuse to pick up your damn phone like usual ;-)

I am comin home Thursday thru Sunday this weekend if you wanna get together...i'll be hangin out with ketchup like usual

 

my vtec kicks in when i get out and push

 

Here it my question,
I picked up some K-Sport lowering springs, the GT lowering springs).
I took off the Sleeve Coilover's, to be re-placed with the lowering springs, on the KYB GR-2's shocks.
I installed everything correctly, but when i lowered the jack down, the front was fine. But the rear is sitting up 4-5 inches. looks like i have a 4x4. lol
I figured i might installed them wrong. put the front springs on the rear, and the rear on the front. I took the driver sides off and tried to just swap the springs.
But the springs don't fit, so I'm pretty sure i had them right the first time.
Does anyone know if the K-Sport springs are the same size? Because i have two different size springs. The smaller springs are for the front, and the larger ones for the back?
If i need to post pictures i can, but I'm not sure what to do?
thanks

 

usually with lowering springs the shorter ones always go in the back

 

im might sell my DA shell and go back to a DB1 to many people around my town with 2dr's
i have the fastest one right now but its all young boys that have them

 

Actually, the shorter springs usually go in the front, and longer in the rear.

 

I have a 93 gsr and I swap in a 98 ls motor for the time being. I just started the car today and the oil light come on then faded out alittle then come back on and stay on. Im still using the p61 ecu and I know that i need a pr4. I also took one of the sensor out the b17 and puy it in the b18. threr one plug that hanging behind the motor cause there no (i think) knock sensor on the ls. so why is the light stay on.....

 

change the ecu and you should get rid of the oil light if im not mistaken running the vtec ecu its looking for oil pressure to run vtec and the ls motor dosent have it i could be wrong but id say get the pr4 ecu

 

maybe it was just the opposite because it was on a DC?

 

^^^ this guy...what a ***! lol.

 

DA's repping at this past Sunday's El Toro Championship Event.

 

Looks good, have a fun time?
What were your times?
Who won, you or Matty?

 

I spun out on all my runs, too much oversteer = lost.

 

Tough course?

 

No, I just was going too fast on the high speed slaloms trying to max out the car, but I had my psi setting and shocks not set right.

 

OK guys so its time to buckle down and get the DA done. I have 60 days to complete a engine swap, fix a intermitin electrical problem, and prep and paint the entire car.

I need a little help though.

First off, my engine swap delema. The b18a that is currently on my rs has seen its life, it has rough starts, the injectors are out of spec. but stills runs. I have a 94 wrecked LS with about 100k less miles and its a strong engine. I am looking to drop this bad boy in the RS.

I want to convert to the obd1 harness, but i have never swapped a honda engine before. and i have a feeling that the engine harness ties into many other harnesses such as the dash harness and the Cooling fan/AC module.

So how i see it i can leave the obd0 harness and ecu and just use the obd0 sensors on the 94 engine, but use the obd1 injectors cutting the old injectors wires and clips out and soldering the obd1 clips and wires on the obd0 harness. Will this work?? or will it throw a code..

thats my main problem at the moment

 

Just use the 94 ls long block and use the da harness, intake manifold, dizzy and computer. It's much easier

 

Instructor in Matty's car with 205 Azenis = 89.xxx
My best time with 195/60/14 AS Michelins = 90.xxx

= won

I hit a cone and that resulted in a 1 sec penalty so I pretty much matched the instructors time (if you don't count the penalty ). My problem was getting a clean run w/o nailing the 2nd cone on the 3rd and final slalom section. I entered that section too fast for my setup, twice. Overall, great course.

The autoclub course was about 1/3 the size of this one, technical. El Toro was a a lot faster and more free flowing.

 

I am gonna use the block and the head, use the obd0 dizzy, harness, and most of the sensors.

I have to use the obd1 injectors, they are within spec and have alot more life on them.
I am also using the new intake manifold, it is alot cleaner looking than the b18a manifold. This will also relocate the MAP from the firewall to the throttle body.

will this work, has anyone performed this before..?

this is just all theory in my head at the moment.

Also looked into it, and time to bust the tig welder or the mig welder, the beed blaster and the band saw out, gonna make a set of 1 inch extended top hats... so the 4 inch drop isnt so bouncy.

 

4inch drop on what?