Hey guys/girl I just bought a z6 head today and I'm going to be boosting it. I was going to use my b2 block but with a bit of research found full z6 is better. Any who I was just wondering on the amount of internal work for my power goal. I've read plenty of people talking about 220whp saftly on a stock healthy z6 but I'. going for 300whp. these are what I believe could get there. Please post any info you believe would help and it will be much appreciated.

full z6 motor(milled,hone,all new gaskets,seals,etc)
arp head studs
super tech valves,springs,retainers
eagle rods
walbro 255 fuel pump
rc 750cc injectors
vitara pistons
t3/t4 .57 trim
cast mani

This is what my list currently consists of. As stated before all opinions welcomed and considered.

 

The super tech valves/springs/retainers are not needed for a 300 whp motor, but if you want to rev it beyond factory rev limit (7200 rpm) then they are a good idea.

Make sure that turbo your getting is not a ching chong chineese ebay turbo, it will blow up. Also your going to want a .63 A/R on the hot side .48 A/R will have a lot more difficulty with peak power. This is where having that super tech valve train is a good thing, because you can rev the motor to say 8500 rpm, giving your self a better power band.

If your using vitara pistons, you don't want eagle rods, that will create 7.5:1 C/R which is too low it make the car sluggish.

Check this kit out:

http://p2p0.com/?wpsc-product=ycp-75...rods-combo-d16

True oem bore vitaras or 75.5 mm if you want with custom forged rods that bump C/R to 8.5:1 and this kit will cost you less money

 

Definately get the 75.5mm so u can set your piston to wall to around. 0035. I did it and the motor ran great.

Mess with the transmission in my opinion. I had the z6 vitara and it could have benefit from tighter gears, especially with bigger tires at the track. It will also help it be more responsive in vacuum. It is pretty sluggish out of boost

 

You can use p2p0 standard 75mm bore pistons, these are not the old school vitaras that will end up like .008 causing piston slap.

These are a newer version that are a true pm3 bore size, so with no hone, they will actually be a little tight, you can hone them to .0035 - .0040.

Your set up probably had 7.5:1 C/R from using eagle rods right?

With the custom rods and 8.5:1 C/R the car will not be as sluggish out of boost, but the sohc tranny's do leave something to be desired in the way of shorter gearing.

 

I believe your goals of 300whp are easily feasible with aftermarket rods and pistons in your set up. I am currently running a 50 trim ebay turbo (.63 ar hotside) on a comepletely stock ZC non-vtec (96'+) and making 264whp and 248ftlb of torque with E85. This is at 13.25 psi, been running strong for about 3 months so far.

Those rods are probably hating life right now though.

 

p2p or Fj rods

 

not sure if they are p2p rods, but yes whatever stock rods come in that zc motor.

 

um no, p2p are forged I beams, you are making that power on a stock y7? Yikes! Not to jinx you, but you know it's going to break eventually right?

 

Yes lol i am very well aware of that.

I had no idea the i-beams were refferenced as p2p. These are the ones from fj distributors right? I have a set of those waiting to go into a vitara build, kinda like the one in your sig hah

 

ahh interesting to know. id still be weary on the stock bore. definitely get a dial bore gauge in there to ensure there is no out of round or any other funny business going on. this should be done before ordering pistons. if the block checks out then go with the 75mm again.

 

Thanks for the info. When I get the block honed ill figure out piston size but regardless I want my p2w to be .003-.0035 seems like a safe bet giving some wiggle room. I was also debating using my b2 block instead. I think I'll go with the super tech because I"m lookin to shift around 9k. With the combination of the vtec/boost think higher rpm is the way to go compared to 7.5k. Tranny wise I actually think my dx tranny will do very well the gears are pretty decent. But I'm still in the google stage with this vs that for the build so getting the odious parts first. Thanks again for all input

 

Ahh dx tranny lol. Trust me I've been there and done that, you don't want the longer gears. At the track with slicks or big drag radials it will totally fubar ur gearing

 

Thanks for the heads up. Im getting a little ahead of myself I have to make sure this head,cram shaft is usable. If anyone does machining lmk have np shipping