turbogsr

I have a fully built motor w/ 9:1 JE pistons w/ a sleeved block. My motor is a B18C. I have a HP Manifold, 440cc RC injectors, AEM Fuel Rail, Full Fuel System, AFC, Boost Controller, Rev-Hard Stage II kit and a couple other goodies. I just got my car dyno tuned at 20lbs on pump gas and only got 365HP. I understand that my head is stock except for the intake manifold, but shouldn't I be getting a little more horsepower? Look at the type R in the other post. He has the same compression and at 15lbs, he almost has the same HP as me. Does anyone else see something wrong here or should I be happy? I also am using a re-mapped OBDI computer. I don't have a stand-alone or anything. No Haltech, or Hondata. Will race gas also raise my HP level at this amount of boost. I really need help here.


[Modified by turbogsr, 7:37 PM 7/28/2001]


[Modified by turbogsr, 10:29 PM 7/28/2001]

earl

You don't mention your cams. If you are running stock B18C (not B18C1) cams, you might have a set from Japan that came out of an automatic. IT HAPPENED TO ME. Use either ITR's (not CTR's) or perhaps Crower 63401's or Web Cam turbo grinds. Nothing any wilder. Also good valve springs are a MUST. No need to port your head.
A DFI and a good tuner can make a lot more power for you. Junk the OBD1 computer and go stand-alone.
Also do a leak down or compression check to make sure all is OK internally.
Good luck...you're almost there!
Earl

lucas569

i would say your limited by your ecu. if youve gone this far dont skimp on the ecu. go w/ a hondata or another standalone.

my friend has a 99 Si w/ 15 psi from a ball bearing t3/t4 andhe layed down 360 whp. hes using an accel dfi.

civicguy

anyone has more information about the accel dfi,how much cost?

turbotypeR@SPEC

hey,man you only have 440cc injectors.that is almost the limit on that much fuel.mine made 380whp @18lbs.it could have made more but it was running out of fuel.as for the amount of boost to make that much power,that is probably the turbo.you can have a bigger turbo that make more power at lower boost.

TurboInteg95

It's your engine management. If you invested in something like Hondata you would be well over 400

b18bturbo

at 20 psi on race gas with 9.1 with speed pro we hit 480hp ITs all about controlling your timing and fuel throughout the rpm band

accordking

It would be best to save your money and do it right the first time and go SpeedPro fuel injection. Not to bag on the other systems but Speedpro is the way to go and is fairly priced. I love my SpeedPro.

turbogsr

I have stock GSR cams on my car. I'm telling you, the head is completely stock. We burned a valve also on the dyno but I'm not sure if we got that horsepower with the burned valve or not. Well that one valve make a big difference? Hopefully it will. I really don't know what to do now. I really wanted more horsepower but we'll see. Maybe its time to do the head and get a stand-alone. And definitely bigger injectors. Any other suggestions?

Suprdave

You burned a Valve!

Think you might have been running alittle too lean?

Seriously, you need to beef up the Fuel System alittle (550cc) and get yourseld a standalone system. I'm torn between Speedpro and Hondata, but will probably get Hondata since its Daily Driver.

Don't go all out then skimp on the things that will make parts break (Fuel and Tuning).

Suprdave

earl

How do you know you burned the valve? You could have floated it and bent it if you are still running stock springs. Burnt or bent, the head must come off but DON'T waste $$$ on porting. Just put good springs and retainers on and fix the valves. 550 cc injectors are a minimum and a good stand alone is a MUST. Also someone who can tune it or the stand alone is useless. Do this and you will see your 500+ HP. You're OK. Everyone goes thru this kind of crapp.
I wouldn't run anything but VP C-16 racing gas in your motor unless it is a street car and then you would go broke. What area do you live in?


[Modified by earl, 9:49 PM 7/29/2001]

turbogsr

I live in Miami. He told me he burnt a valve b/c before I gave him the car, the car was running lean. He said my EGT's when I gave it to him were about at 1350-1400F. He says that is way too hot since I have my probe in the downpipe after the turbo. He says he got them to stay around 1080-1100F. I'm going to see how much I can get all the parts for. I really want to go Stand-Alone but I really don't have the money right now. I still owe my parents 2300 dollars from the engine build. I can't put in a stand alone w/out paying that money first. We'll see what happens. Any more suggestions?


[Modified by turbogsr, 11:30 PM 7/29/2001]

dbman96

Holy **** yeah I'd say if your EGT is that high AFTER the turbo you're running a TINY bit lean. Those injectors are big enough for up to around 300 hp at realistic fuel pressures, above that you're really stretching them. I don't think there's a pump in the world that can flow enough for anywhere near 400 hp at the pressures you would need with 440cc injectors. You've obviously spent a ton of money on your car, the logical next step is a standalone system and some big *** injectors. Anyone else think a Hondata or Haltech and some 720s will get this guy up over 400 hp?

turbogsr

The thing is, I was hoping for very close to 400HP at the wheels without the Stand-Alone and without head work. I thought it was a very realistic goal especially at 20lbs. Don't you agree? So why did I get only 365?

Boostfed

My buddy with an LS motor built JE 9.0:1 pistons and Eagle rods with a standalone SDS standalone system put down 350whp and 260 lb-trque tuned conservatively. I'd like to put down about 300whp with 15psi this Friday with RC 370's with my bandaid FMU(8:1) and Bosch pump. We'll see.

dbman96

I think several people have already pointed out your problem - you need more fuel. All the boost in the world won't make more power without additional fuel, and those injectors just aren't enough to deal with 20 psi. To run big enough injectors to do what you want, you have very few choices but to go standalone. You follow the logic here? I don't think headwork is a necessity, but more fuel is critical.

The other thing to consider is that your turbo itself is probably way out of its efficiency band when you crank it up to 20 psi. The revhard kit is designed to run under 10 psi if I'm not mistaken, so the turbo would be matched for that purpose. You double the boost, that turbo could be running down around 55-60% efficiency in which case you're going to be fighting an uphill battle trying to drag more power out of it. You can't just be thinking "more boost = more power" because you reach a point where you have to look at where the boost is coming from, not just your manifold pressure.

If you know what compressor wheel/housing you have on there, you can pull up some compressor maps and see what's going on. That would be a start. If you have no clue what compressor you're running, you should probably call up Majestic Turbo or someone like them and tell them what you're trying to do, then send them your turbo and have them rebuild it to suit your purposes.



[Modified by dbman96, 1:11 PM 7/30/2001]

Boostfed

Actually the Rev Hard/DRAG 3/F-Max kits all come with a big t3/T04B or E turbo which is there for up to about 450-500 hp when you do decide to up the boost and built the bottom end and add the proper fuel management systems. So the turbo's efficiency is not even the point in this case IMHO! They go large for a reason for upgradeablity! :D But I beleieve it is definately the fuel in this case and just some more tuning! Look at Hondata or any standalone system.

earl

What everyone is saying is that fuel makes power. The more fuel you burn properly, the more power you will make (as long as there is also compression and ignition to go with it). That's why funny cars burn up 10 gallons of fuel on a 1/4 mile run. I know you want your current system to create more power, it's just not going to happen. No matter how much stronger I get, I'm still not going to be able to high jump 6 feet unless I strap a rocket on my back.
Earl