i have a d16y7 with y8 IM. i have a FMU and 3 check valves that came with my setup. I will be buying an afc or blue box soon to hold me over.. but for now, i need this to work..

how much boost can i run only using 3 check valves... and where do they go. car keeps going into limp mode.. i have to be able to drive it!!! thanks...

also, is it safe to turn 6800 on fmu with 7 or 8 psi.. or should i shift sooner cuz of it leaning out?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC Beast &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

how much boost can i run only using 3 check valves... and where do they go. car keeps going into limp mode.. i have to be able to drive it!!! thanks...?</TD></TR></TABLE>

They go between the t/b and map sensor, venting out. I would only run 5-6psi on a fmu/stock injector set-up.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC Beast &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
also, is it safe to turn 6800 on fmu with 7 or 8 psi.. or should i shift sooner cuz of it leaning out?</TD></TR></TABLE>
There is no way of knowing if your leaning out or not until you get it on a dyno..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16ahybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They go between the t/b and map sensor, venting out. I would only run 5-6psi on a fmu/stock injector set-up...</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont see any vacuum hoses in the area? am i over looking it somehow? how much psi of boost does each check valve block, or is it unknown? thanks for you help!

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC Beast &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i dont see any vacuum hoses in the area? am i over looking it somehow? !</TD></TR></TABLE>

Unscrew the map sensor from the t/b, you will then see a hole (vacuum/boost). Connect a hose from the map sensor (has a nipple on it) to the hole in the t/b (where the map sensor was).Put the check valves between the map sensor and the t/b, but NOT inline. You will need a few -T-'s.
Kinda like this....
Map sensor---------&gt;T-----------&gt;T----------&gt;T------------&gt;T/B.
Off of each -T- put a check valve...so it vents out.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC Beast &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

how much psi of boost does each check valve block, or is it unknown? thanks for you help!</TD></TR></TABLE>

As much as it can vent, depends on the quality of the chack valve. I'm using 4 on my car and i'm runing .65 bar.
Try 3 and if it still throws a code add one more...

 

where do you buy check valves at?

 

fish & pet store ..go to tank supply area and find "one way check valve" i was using 3 Tetra's..name brand fish tank bling bling

 

How do you secure the line going into the tb? Is there a good trick, or is it a DIY and figure it out kinda thing?

 

.....

 

they go in the trash.

....you can attach the vac line to the hole in the TB by pressing one part of an approiatly sized T or splice fitting into it. It might come loose if you try to take it in and out more than once though. Someplaces also make fittings that mount like the MAP sensor and convert it to a vac nipple. either way there are better options out there. At least get a real missing link type of thingy...

 

the guy a bought my kit from used a small peice of sheet metal, cut it into oval shape like the MAP... drilled two holes where it screws in.. then on bigger in the middle, threaded in a small brass elbow with a vacuum nipple on one end, put some liquid gasket crap on the bottom and on the elbow so it wouldnt leak.. the rean the vacuum line off of that... to the check valves.. and finally slipped onto the MAP sensor where it used to stick down into the TB., works great...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16ahybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

There is no way of knowing if your leaning out or not until you get it on a dyno..</TD></TR></TABLE>

what about an egt guage?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by the-anti-crack &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what about an egt guage?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah but it's only going to give you a close estimate or your air/fuel ratio. Other things can effect the egt other then a/f ratio.
you could also get a wideband o2 and gauge to check afr.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16ahybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yeah but it's only going to give you a close estimate or your air/fuel ratio. Other things can effect the egt other then a/f ratio.
you could also get a wideband o2 and gauge to check afr.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Like what? More air means hotter temp- period (lean)

 

timing

 

you can also make a pass, and check your plugs. obviously not very acurate, but it wll give you an idea.

i would rather have an egt than nothing. either way you think about it, hot is bad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XratedSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Like what? More air means hotter temp- period (lean)</TD></TR></TABLE>

nope , temps can rise on either side of a god AF ratio.