Whats the easiest way to relive crankcase pressure?

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Old 08-02-2006, 11:33 PM
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Default Re: (AaronJ)

im going to give this a try...
Old 08-03-2006, 07:15 AM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 80884 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This thread gave me a headache. I'll post something anyway.....

Stock valve cover breather going to catch can, two prelude oil cooler fittings on the back of the block going to catch can, valve on bottom of catchcan to drain oil out of (will not put this stuff back in the engine) another port on the catchcan going to the exhaust. I shouldn't have to mention what this is for but I will just say when done right you have vacume in the catchcan which yes...means it will help pull air out of the engine.

Read this and you will have your questions answered https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1199935 </TD></TR></TABLE>

No, you do not have to have vacuum on the catchcan. Maybe you should go back and read that thread you posted better, which btw is an excellent thread. The "Open Breather Ventilation" setup he tested did not have vacuum on the catchcan. Crankcase pressure is going to find the easiest way to escape to the atmosphere regardless of whether or not vacuum is present. Vacuum may help to pull the crankcase pressure out faster, but is definately not necessary.
Old 08-03-2006, 04:50 PM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanEJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, you do not have to have vacuum on the catchcan. Maybe you should go back and read that thread you posted better, which btw is an excellent thread. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I never said you have to have vacuum on the catchcan, go back and reread what i posted then show me where I said you have to have vacuum on the cathcan. Also see below where he did talk about it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanEJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The "Open Breather Ventilation" setup he tested did not have vacuum on the catchcan.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No he did not test the way I use it on my car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanEJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Crankcase pressure is going to find the easiest way to escape to the atmosphere regardless of whether or not vacuum is present. Vacuum may help to pull the crankcase pressure out faster, but is definately not necessary.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think you shot your own foot there. Pressure is going to find the easiest way out yes, which the easiest way out would be with something pulling it out - vacuum. Set up two catchcans, one venting to atmoshere and one having vacuum (small amount) see which one will evacuate quicker. No it is not necessary to have, but it does help.

Actually if you reread the thread I posted it does talk about what I was saying, he just set it up with the intake. Didn't see it?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dasher &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Using a slashcut tube to create vacuum is an old trick which works on the Bernoulli effect as air rushes past the tube at high velocities. Make sure you place the slash-cut opening in the opposite direction of the airflow.

One method for evacuating the crankcase is to allow the Intake(pre-turbo) to draw out these gasses. In my tests their was a linear load dependent vacuum drawn using this method. None to insignificant amount of vacuum drawn at idle and low load conditions, moderate load created 0.25 psi(0.5") of vacuum, and high load/WOT created a maximum vacuum of 0.5 psi (1") vacuum. One does not need to use a check valve with this approach as their is never any reason for pressure to force its way into the crankcase.

Their is a positive and negative aspect to this approach. The great thing about this method is that it is the only method which allows one to completely eliminate any blow-by gasses from contaminating the environment. The downside is that it contaminates the Intake charge with oil/fuel/contaminants.

Judging from the amount of contaminants I collected in my open breather catchcan every 2-3 weeks it would be absolutely insane to use this method without a sealed(no open breather element) and baffled catchcan in-line between the crankcase /valve cover and the intake. Keep in mind that most of the contaminants will be sucked into the intake as opposed to only some contaminants trapped in an open breather catchcan while the rest pollutes the environment.

Some good news is that the Intercooler piping and intercooler will act as a very large catchcan and trap most of these contaminants before they reach the engine. The bad news is that I suggest you periodically clean the inside of your intercooler and intercooler pipe.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I should have been more clear when I said vacuum, should have said small amount of vacuum. And most of the bad things when doing it with the intake are gone when you set it up in the exhaust.
Old 08-03-2006, 06:11 PM
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how will the removal of the pcv system effect an NA car? I am preparing for boost so im trying to take care of all the pre boost stuff so my boost build will be short (36hrs max)
Old 08-03-2006, 07:10 PM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 80884 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This thread gave me a headache. I'll post something anyway.....

Stock valve cover breather going to catch can, two prelude oil cooler fittings on the back of the block going to catch can, valve on bottom of catchcan to drain oil out of (will not put this stuff back in the engine) another port on the catchcan going to the exhaust. I shouldn't have to mention what this is for but I will just say when done right you have vacume in the catchcan which yes...means it will help pull air out of the engine.

Read this and you will have your questions answered https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1199935 </TD></TR></TABLE>

That would work great, and would definatly outperform using the black box. But the reason for this thread was to find the easiest way to relieve crankcase pressure, not the best, or the most efficient. Just something that works, for the people who are still a little grassroots budget style.

I removed the 2 tiny lines that run from the top of the black box. I drilled open the holes and ran these 2 barb fittings into the top. The larger holes will evacuate pressure quicker, and i will run lines to a small canister of some kind to see if any oil is getting up through the hoses. I haven't seen anyone do this yet, even if it really doesn't do anything im sure it won't hurt.



And here you can see the difference in the diameters



The black box is also baffled a little bit to, if you look into the holes you can see the baffles.
Old 08-03-2006, 07:13 PM
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Sweet!

So you stuck some steel wool in the black box, and what size are those fittings exactly? What size line do you run to the block and ground?
Old 08-03-2006, 07:24 PM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostincoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sweet!

So you stuck some steel wool in the black box, and what size are those fittings exactly? What size line do you run to the block and ground?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think they are 5/8, but i am not sure. I just found some that looked a little bit bigger than the stock holes. Go as big as you can without the fittings hitting each other.

I didn't put anything in the box, because that would cause a restriction, the box has a little baffleing in it already, it just basically a piece of metal across the middle.

I will just run line that fits on the barbs, and they will both be ran to the ground. The spot where the factory line runs to the block will just get plugged

ps-do you know charlie moua?
Old 08-03-2006, 07:26 PM
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Default Re: (AaronJ)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AaronJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
ps-do you know charlie moua?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, how'd you know?
Old 08-03-2006, 07:28 PM
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My black hatch is his old one. And I have bought a few things from him, and I noticed you were from MN
Old 08-03-2006, 07:29 PM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AaronJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My black hatch is his old one. And I have bought a few things from him</TD></TR></TABLE>

So has everyone in the Midwest



Yeah, I'm going to run that setup for sure, except I'm going to keep the line going to the block there, and vent the other one to the ground.

How are you going to secure it, i.e. keep it away from the downpipe, etc.?
Old 08-03-2006, 07:37 PM
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Well the box will sit in its stock location, plugged into the back of the block, and the lines, i am actuall going to run thim into some sort of canister where most people mount a catchan. That way i can see if this ghetto catchan will prevent oil from blowing out, and if the oil does blow out, then everyone at the track won't hate me.
Old 08-03-2006, 07:42 PM
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Default Re: (AaronJ)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AaronJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well the box will sit in its stock location, plugged into the back of the block, and the lines, i am actuall going to run thim into some sort of canister where most people mount a catchan. That way i can see if this ghetto catchan will prevent oil from blowing out, and if the oil does blow out, then everyone at the track won't hate me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's a good idea!
Old 08-03-2006, 08:42 PM
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Empty 20oz bottle usually works, 90% of the DSM guys use it around here, but they use 2 liters cuz well...I'm sure we all know why, lol

Not defending my other post but I had $50 into it...if that.
Old 08-04-2006, 10:08 AM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 80884 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I never said you have to have vacuum on the catchcan, go back and reread what i posted then show me where I said you have to have vacuum on the cathcan. </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 80884 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when done right you have vacume in the catchcan</TD></TR></TABLE>



Old 08-04-2006, 01:39 PM
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Never did I say you need vacuum at the catchcan for the crankcase to be ventilated. If you do it the way I said, what you END UP WITH is vacuum at the catchcan. Depending upon how strong the vacuum is will determine if it looses vacuum at the can and the vacuum is then used to empty the can, maybe it will be strong enough to have vacuum in the can and the can will use that vacuum to help pull air out of the crankcase, you could end up with a constant vacuum in the crankcase wich would be ideal if it wasn't stong (a very small amount), next step up on the vacuum scale would be too much vacuum in the crankcase and you start to suck in gaskets or cause other problems. This is rare but can happen and has happened to me with another engine. Think of the opposite of too much crankcase pressure and thats what example I am trying to give.

Ok here, take the breather catchcan set up...no vacuum, it works. Ok good.
Now take the same system and remove the breather, add some sort of vacuum sorce to that port or hole, weather it be a vacuum pump, slash cut pipe to the intake or exhaust, engine vacuum if you wanted or pretty much whatever way you wanted to do it. It's the same system as the breather but now has vacuum to assist in evacuating crank case pressure. Do you NEED the vacuum sorce for the system to work at venting crankcase pressures? NO. So where again did I say that you NEED vacuum at the catchcan for it to work? I didn't. Did I say it will help? yes.

I said it needed vacuum?

AaronJ: You could take that can that you made and run some lines to the exhaust using the method I described. Most people doing the exhaust evac set up like mine don't use a catch can.
That would make it cheaper by not having to buy (or make) a catch can since you already have one (the black box) and essentialy it would be the same type of setup I described above that I have. The only problem with doing it this way would be very hard to monitor the amount of blowby you actually do have if all of your evidence is going strait out into the exhaust or draining back into the engine. I guess if it's too bad then you'd see lots of smoke out the exhaust. Not easy to diagnose if it is oil when the crankcase pressure is to high due to excesive blowby or if there would be smoke from some other part.

Just some ideas. Trying not to be a pain in your thread. Trying to offer help. I understand about the grassroots type of thing. Even if I have money to buy whatever, I still usually try to make my own thing. Why? IDK, I like to and also enjoy that almost as much as driving the car.
Old 08-04-2006, 05:57 PM
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Default Re: Whats the easiest way to relive crankcase pressure? (AaronJ)

so you guys just vent the two hoses from the black box to the atmosphere? how much oil do you lose? i need to do something cheap and effective asap cause my kit is now on my car just waiting for some welding to be done on wed... ill be tuned at about 250whp
Old 08-04-2006, 07:49 PM
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Ryan and 80884 both need to relieve pressure from their heads
Old 08-04-2006, 08:03 PM
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Default Re: (igo4bmx)

And its easy too. Just drill a hole and let it vent. No need for complicated cans or hoses unless you want to keep it clean. Hows thats for a simple explination?
/Thread
Old 08-05-2006, 08:46 PM
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I am going to try and just run the hoses from the black box straight up.. so it will vent and hopefully not spew so much oil on the ground..
Old 08-07-2006, 06:28 AM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igo4bmx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ryan and 80884 both need to relieve pressure from their heads </TD></TR></TABLE>

ROFL
Old 08-07-2006, 11:08 AM
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Default Re: (RyanEJ8)

So let me get this straight, I have to gut my PCV, then take the lines running from the OEM catchcan and just point them straight at the ground. Then, add a breather filter to the valve cover.

Haha, emissions, here I come.
Old 08-07-2006, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 80884
Never did I say you need vacuum at the catchcan for the crankcase to be ventilated. If you do it the way I said, what you END UP WITH is vacuum at the catchcan. Depending upon how strong the vacuum is will determine if it looses vacuum at the can and the vacuum is then used to empty the can, maybe it will be strong enough to have vacuum in the can and the can will use that vacuum to help pull air out of the crankcase, you could end up with a constant vacuum in the crankcase wich would be ideal if it wasn't stong (a very small amount), next step up on the vacuum scale would be too much vacuum in the crankcase and you start to suck in gaskets or cause other problems. This is rare but can happen and has happened to me with another engine. Think of the opposite of too much crankcase pressure and thats what example I am trying to give.

Ok here, take the breather catchcan set up...no vacuum, it works. Ok good.
Now take the same system and remove the breather, add some sort of vacuum sorce to that port or hole, weather it be a vacuum pump, slash cut pipe to the intake or exhaust, engine vacuum if you wanted or pretty much whatever way you wanted to do it. It's the same system as the breather but now has vacuum to assist in evacuating crank case pressure. Do you NEED the vacuum sorce for the system to work at venting crankcase pressures? NO. So where again did I say that you NEED vacuum at the catchcan for it to work? I didn't. Did I say it will help? yes.

I said it needed vacuum?

AaronJ: You could take that can that you made and run some lines to the exhaust using the method I described. Most people doing the exhaust evac set up like mine don't use a catch can.
That would make it cheaper by not having to buy (or make) a catch can since you already have one (the black box) and essentialy it would be the same type of setup I described above that I have. The only problem with doing it this way would be very hard to monitor the amount of blowby you actually do have if all of your evidence is going strait out into the exhaust or draining back into the engine. I guess if it's too bad then you'd see lots of smoke out the exhaust. Not easy to diagnose if it is oil when the crankcase pressure is to high due to excesive blowby or if there would be smoke from some other part.

Just some ideas. Trying not to be a pain in your thread. Trying to offer help. I understand about the grassroots type of thing. Even if I have money to buy whatever, I still usually try to make my own thing. Why? IDK, I like to and also enjoy that almost as much as driving the car.
I like this black box modification idea.

I have a Y8 15 psi. I left my black box in, then took a fosters can, and made that into my catch can. I went with the vacuum method, slash cut to my intake side of the turbo. I mainly did this to help with my turbo oil drain, whole other story. Anyways, my last track day, i noticed oil all over the place in my engine. I was getting it up into my catch can. Well, not good for the track obviously. Now, my friend B series, with black box, just vented never had any oil issues. So i was like expletive it, and just ran the valvcover hose into my engine bay, since that wasn't getting any oil, and ran the black box hose up through my hood/cowl area and to my windshield, so i could see if i was gonna muck up the track at all. The first few laps, i pulled some oil/water out, then after that dry as can be, still two weeks later, no more oil period. So, not sure what to go with there, i guess its possible i was creating too much vacuum at high rpm's but, i'm def. skipping the catch can now.

By the way, not attacking you, just figured this would go better following your post.
Old 08-07-2006, 05:59 PM
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Default Re: Whats the easiest way to relive crankcase pressure? (AaronJ)

Think outside the catch can theory for one minute. I know alot of rwd/v8/ and my self did this setup on my KA24DE-T.


Old 08-07-2006, 06:40 PM
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Default Re: Whats the easiest way to relive crankcase pressure? (minh826)

god damn thats a big turbo dude.. what kind of numbers are you putting down... me and my buddy are getting to rebuild a kade24 withing the next few weeks rwd
Old 08-08-2006, 09:01 AM
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Default Re: (igo4bmx)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igo4bmx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ryan and 80884 both need to relieve pressure from their heads </TD></TR></TABLE>
Kind of ironic, I had to have a craniotomy done after a bad car accident back in 2002. I would laugh about what you said but I really can't, sorry. Nothing against you cuz how would you know, but relieving pressure from my head isn't something I can laugh about anymore. It's cool tho, I'm not mad

coneheadsracing - thanks for the post and not attacking me or putting words in my mouth.

minh826 - I see alot of drag cars around here running that type of setup without a can. Not many are boosted but I don't know how high crankcase pressure gets on NA cars. They never blow oil out or smoke from oil. The main reason I said about a can is a way to monitor what is going on, other than checking the oil.

I'm not out to get anyone I just hate when words get put into my mouth saying something that I didn't when I'm trying to help. Thats all.



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