WTF? it's a simple question.. don't need to be rude, buddy.. plus I didn't ask YOU the question.

I'm installing turbo myself... just wondering if you have to set the return line at certain angle and etc... I'm sure there are a few ppl who don't know much about oil feed and return lines..

didn't mean to jack your thread, xenocron..




Modified by hoya_10fintec at 4:04 PM 7/19/2003

 

Easy there, Tonto. Civil questions require civil answers. The second he posts an irrational question, then flame on.

hoya_10fintec - I believe Flamenco offered to PM ppl who wanted instructions on how to do an oil line the right way (might want to scroll up and see if it was him that posted that).

 

NP Hoya, I am looking to learn the same thing. But I am confident I can rely on Flamenco in that department when I buy his fittings!

I hate it when people get bent out of shape when someone asks a Noob question(s)...that's why I started this thread.

Can anyone elaborate on oil line tips...I sure many of you have come up with very different ways to all do the same thing...how bout a few variations for us virgins?

 

DON'T ******* USE STOCK INJECTORS WITH STUPID FMU, FPR RISER, MISSING LINK, VAFC HACK and all that bullshit

get a SMC if you don't have money for hondata or other more expensive management systems..

I HATE PEOPLE USING FMU AND STOCK INJECTORS...

people who do that = osama bin laden on a bad day trying to imitate Saddam hussein.

 

there are many ways and different routing you can do. One thing I always stressed to my customers is that when you're test fitting the return line, install your Downpipe and the charge pipe first, this way you would know which way to route the lines to get the best results.

Look at this pics, I helped install this kit for one of the local guys long time ago with art.



see the nice space between the downpipe and the charge pipe ?

Anyway, I have always try to help everyone as much as I can wether you buy the kits from me or not, and I am sure many peoples can tell you the same things.

stan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2000vsm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> DON'T ******* USE STOCK INJECTORS WITH STUPID FMU, FPR RISER, MISSING LINK, VAFC HACK and all that bullshit

get a SMC if you don't have money for hondata or other more expensive management systems..

I HATE PEOPLE USING FMU AND STOCK INJECTORS...

people who do that = osama bin laden on a bad day trying to imitate Saddam hussein.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have to disagree...different ways will work for different setup...I know a few cars on FMU running 7-9 psi daily and held up for 3-4 years, I got 256 at 6.5 psi on GS-R motor on stock injectors and FMU...

I like FMU the fact that is simple and it'ss less headaches to troubleshoot. Stock injectors, FMU and retard base timing 2-3 degrees. I think you're set for low 7-8 psi of boost. I wouldn't go over it though, too much fuel pressure at that point.

AFC hack isthe least of my favorite but it works, and again if it was setup right, it will produce power and last a long time.

the right way is standalone, it is more money and more sophisticated but again, if it's done right it can make a lot of power and your motor will last a long time as well..

see the trend, any setup will work if it's done the right way.

my $.02

stan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flamenco-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have to disagree...different ways will work for different setup...I know a few cars on FMU running 7-9 psi daily and held up for 3-4 years, I got 256 at 6.5 psi on GS-R motor on stock injectors and FMU...

I like FMU the fact that is simple and it'ss less headaches to troubleshoot. Stock injectors, FMU and retard base timing 2-3 degrees. I think you're set for low 7-8 psi of boost. I wouldn't go over it though, too much fuel pressure at that point.

AFC hack isthe least of my favorite but it works, and again if it was setup right, it will produce power and last a long time.

the right way is standalone, it is more money and more sophisticated but again, if it's done right it can make a lot of power and your motor will last a long time as well..

see the trend, any setup will work if it's done the right way.

my $.02

stan
</TD></TR></TABLE>

it's not the injectors i'm worried about.. but running that high PSI of fuel might kill the fuel pump if you don't upgrade that.... but you saying FMU is simple? there's way more lines hooking up a FMU.. SMC + 450cc = just install 450cc injectors with resistor packs if needed and that's it.. smc install is 5 wires to ecu.

any problems? i don't see how... with fmu you can't "tune" how much fuel you need.. if you go to the dyno with wideband, you can only see if you're running rich or lean, that's it..

the smc, you can adjust it and shoot for 11.5 to 12 a/f and the SMC 500 can do it in 500 increments...

I don't know man, FMU cost = SMC cost, plus smc does not strain out the stock fuel pump, plus you get 450cc in there and you can run it rich like hell if you set the SMC at 0% fuel trim... and again, price for dsm 1g/2g 450cc = 40-50.. i got mine for $55 2g only 15000 miles... so it's pretty reliable and cheap to me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ekb18c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont cheap out on things. </TD></TR></TABLE>

but dont buy to expensive of stuff, no your limits

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2000vsm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

it's not the injectors i'm worried about.. but running that high PSI of fuel might kill the fuel pump if you don't upgrade that.... but you saying FMU is simple? there's way more lines hooking up a FMU.. SMC + 450cc = just install 450cc injectors with resistor packs if needed and that's it.. smc install is 5 wires to ecu.

any problems? i don't see how... with fmu you can't "tune" how much fuel you need.. if you go to the dyno with wideband, you can only see if you're running rich or lean, that's it..

the smc, you can adjust it and shoot for 11.5 to 12 a/f and the SMC 500 can do it in 500 increments...

I don't know man, FMU cost = SMC cost, plus smc does not strain out the stock fuel pump, plus you get 450cc in there and you can run it rich like hell if you set the SMC at 0% fuel trim... and again, price for dsm 1g/2g 450cc = 40-50.. i got mine for $55 2g only 15000 miles... so it's pretty reliable and cheap to me </TD></TR></TABLE>

well yes, with FMU you're limited to the fuel pressure and it is untuneable...but again it's one of those thing that works, simple and just proven. I am sure SMC are proven, it is a good alternate and affordable solutions as wel.. I just like the FMU simply because the simplicity. It uses a single element of vac/boost and that's it and again it has been proven to work.

My whole point is there are several ways to get it done, but we all should be looking towards a standalone somewhere down the line.

stan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2000vsm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> DON'T ******* USE STOCK INJECTORS WITH STUPID FMU, FPR RISER, MISSING LINK, VAFC HACK and all that bullshit
</TD></TR></TABLE>

fyi the vafc hack is the same thing as using the smc. also... installing an fmu is way easier than installing the bigger injectors, installing the smc, and then setting it up. have you ever installed an fmu before??... i didnt think so... you should stop missinforming everyone.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sharkcohen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't mod an auto.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hm why not? looks like im doing the opposite of what everyone is saying, and damn proud of it! (in light of the thread i suggest you listen to them and not me) ill prove you all wrong muahahaha

http://www.homemadeturbo.com http://www.pgmfi.org weeha!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by disguy409 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

fyi the vafc hack is the same thing as using the smc. also... installing an fmu is way easier than installing the bigger injectors, installing the smc, and then setting it up. have you ever installed an fmu before??... i didnt think so... you should stop missinforming everyone.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i really dont think ease of installation is the point here. seems like more of a case of ignorance than misinformation

stock/fmu

 

Many people have blown their engines running lean in the upper RPM band using FMU's and stock injector setup.

there simply isn't enough flow to support the horsepower for many applications, proper fuel is a VERY IMPORTANT KEY to having reliable boosting.

 

if you do do a half *** oil return out of heater hose or fuel line, make sure it dont touch the down pipe. my mistake.

 

SOOOO Im kinda a noob at this so bear with me....but if you get..say the [B][hondata s200b/B] (which by the way does anyone know what those numbers/letters stand for?) and [B][440 cc injectors/B] for a 220-270hp set up that's all you need?
no fmu, no upgraded holley fuel pump, aem fuel pressur regulator, fuel rail or missing link?
you should be pretty reliable w just the hondata and injectors? thanks for helping a noob out..hope 2000vsm doesnt start yelling at me..

 

Id run the hondata s200b/440 injectors/intank high pressure fuel pump...and you should be set as far as fuel management. the numbers just stand for the generation and models of hondata....before it was just hondata stage 1,2,or 3...but the newer ones are s100, s200...etc.....the "b" in s200b or s100b stands for boost capability...in case you haven't been to this site yet..check it out... http://www.hondata.com

Khoi

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XDEep &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i really dont think ease of installation is the point here. seems like more of a case of ignorance than misinformation

stock/fmu </TD></TR></TABLE>

correct!!! stock/fmu is not my cup of tea..

and the people think that install SMC 5 wires is hard? try hookin up a pager alarm with all accessories... i did it on my own.. that's what i considered "a bit of challenge"

and install injectors??? give me a break , if you don't know how to install injectors, you shouldn't be boosting...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2000vsm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

correct!!! stock/fmu is not my cup of tea..

and the people think that install SMC 5 wires is hard? try hookin up a pager alarm with all accessories... i did it on my own.. that's what i considered "a bit of challenge"

and install injectors??? give me a break , if you don't know how to install injectors, you shouldn't be boosting... </TD></TR></TABLE>

i never said using the fmu was better. i only said it was easier to install since you seemed to be misleading everyone. I am using the vafc hack myself. you seem to think you know everything about boosting and telling everyone what they should do when you don't know anything yourself... and if i'm not mistaken, aren't you the guy that got kicked off homemadeturbo for asking idiotic questions???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurBoXBirD16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
DON"T go the cheap way.. you will regret it..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
so you guys would buy a $500 semi new turbo rather then buying a $150 used turbo?
this is where im at right now diciding to buy new or used...

 

...and what if the $150 dollar one doesn't work properly or there's a problem? rebuild it?

save up and buy a new one... it's worth it..

 

thanks Sohc Driver for the reply , is holley a good brand fuel pump?
would this list work well for me..
1) hondata s200b
2) 440 cc RC Engineering injectors
3) Holley fuel pump (what kind?)
...and i wouldnt need an aem fpr or a new fuel rail right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by disguy409 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i never said using the fmu was better. i only said it was easier to install since you seemed to be misleading everyone. I am using the vafc hack myself. you seem to think you know everything about boosting and telling everyone what they should do when you don't know anything yourself... and if i'm not mistaken, aren't you the guy that got kicked off homemadeturbo for asking idiotic questions???</TD></TR></TABLE>

people at HMT seems to have problem understanding that Honda changes trim levels of their cars in CANADA, where i reside, and in the USA... i told them in CANADA, the civic 92-95 CX, does not have the manifold with pre-cat, and they seem not to understand that CANADA honda is different from USA honda.. in the USA, the civic CX DOES have the manifold which over here does not.. don't tell me you can't understand that either

 

for me..i spent $3500 for my own custom kit with Hondata, the TOP notch parts, etc etc etc. u know the deal.

then i made an attempt to install it myself with my friend. everything went fine up until i started up my car and oil leakage due to a crack on my block cause my friend over-torqued the oil feed fitting. little piece of cracking which costed me a WHOLE lot of money to fix. i eventually sold he whole kit.

so in my opinion, if i were to pay $400 to have a shop install it, i would be blowing off. i mean, i sucked it up and spent a few extra $$$$ for better fuel management, but if i had to do it over again, id have a shop install it. they are responsible for everything anyways.

although many people wont agree with me

 

I sure dont. shops take short cuts. me, I dont and I never will. you can always do somthing right if you want to. a shop, they dont make money if they dont get your car outta there bay asap.

 

Iam by no means a guru but from my perspective what I think would be good info is ....if you are concerned about "BUDGET" do NOT buy a kit, build one,do NOT expect to get EVERYTHING you need in a kit, because it very rarely happens , have patience , I waited for months to find a good deal on a kit and bought a brand new kit right here on honda tech for 1500 dollars and that was shipped , if your car is your only car consider taking some time off of work in case you run into problems, try to coordinate help with a shop that can weld, and do as much research as you possibly can so that you YOURSELF can make the decisions on what YOU want according to what YOU are going to be using your car for . have a plan stick to it and enjoy your car