what to do with b16 block???
Alright this is a pretty dumb noob question, but i need some help so please bare with me.
I've got a 2nd gen b16 block to mess around with, and want to turbo it, would like to get into the high 300+hp mark with del sol.
I called up machine shop they said they could bore it out to 84mm for $120. I asked the guy about resleeving, he said there was no need for that or knife-edging the crank unless I was going for hardcore track racing. I mean it's going to the track, but also my daily driver.
What would you guys do??? Thanks for the input, PEACE
I've got a 2nd gen b16 block to mess around with, and want to turbo it, would like to get into the high 300+hp mark with del sol.
I called up machine shop they said they could bore it out to 84mm for $120. I asked the guy about resleeving, he said there was no need for that or knife-edging the crank unless I was going for hardcore track racing. I mean it's going to the track, but also my daily driver.
What would you guys do??? Thanks for the input, PEACE
You don't want to bore you block to 84 mm on stock sleeves and boost because your making the stock sleeves even thinner and more likely to crack at first sign of denotation.
They probably don't I mean most of the cars up here that are modded for racing are domestics, we all know the differences with those and imports.
So the best best would be to ship it out with reputable place huh?
thanks again futha help....
So the best best would be to ship it out with reputable place huh?
thanks again futha help....
Is there a crack in the sleeves or something? With good tuning (Honda, FAST, AEM's EMS) you will not need to resleeve. There were two reasons I resleeved. The B16a block I got for FREE had a crack in one of the sleeves and I am shooting for 475whp. With a good piston/rod combo you will be fine.
nah the sleeves are fine, I've been reading all over that in order to bore out a b16 and keep it from cracking is to resleeve it.
I mean I want to bore the engine while its apart and out of the car, just got to know what works and what won't.
I mean I want to bore the engine while its apart and out of the car, just got to know what works and what won't.
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300's are no problem.. leave the block stock and just spend the money on upgrading your valve train to allow you rev a bit higher safely. And secondly spend the money on a standalone & injectors. That should easily net you mid 300's with a t3/t4e turbo or bigger. I was very happy with my stock b16.. so much so it's my back up motor and it's stock! It netted high 11's w/ 330hp and was a boat load of fun on the streets. A stock corvette would be childs play
If you want to push more than that slap a block guard in and place some forged pistons and rods in.
If you want to push more than that slap a block guard in and place some forged pistons and rods in.
standalone or hondata?
i kind of like AEM because the tuning is wicked, well, tuneable.....
but then again hondata isnt too bad either I guess.....
Guess VAFC wouldnt be needed with standalone huh?
i kind of like AEM because the tuning is wicked, well, tuneable.....
but then again hondata isnt too bad either I guess.....
Guess VAFC wouldnt be needed with standalone huh?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSRev »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">300's are no problem.. leave the block stock and just spend the money on upgrading your valve train to allow you rev a bit higher safely. And secondly spend the money on a standalone & injectors. That should easily net you mid 300's with a t3/t4e turbo or bigger. I was very happy with my stock b16.. so much so it's my back up motor and it's stock! It netted high 11's w/ 330hp and was a boat load of fun on the streets. A stock corvette would be childs play
If you want to push more than that slap a block guard in and place some forged pistons and rods in. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You're making me rethink my desire to swap my shortblock for a B18C
If you want to push more than that slap a block guard in and place some forged pistons and rods in. </TD></TR></TABLE>You're making me rethink my desire to swap my shortblock for a B18C
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSRev »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would suggest a b16 anyway as a starter turbo motor. b18c are expensive if something goes wrong. </TD></TR></TABLE>
they are only more initially expensive, after that if you blow it it will cost the same as a b16 to repair unless you buy a new shortblock. that extra stroke on the b18c gets really noticable when you boost it
they are only more initially expensive, after that if you blow it it will cost the same as a b16 to repair unless you buy a new shortblock. that extra stroke on the b18c gets really noticable when you boost it
That is very true and a very good point.
But switching a B16A to a B18C - could I just boost the B16A first, then swap blocks down the road? Will the turbo manifold clear the oilpan?
I want to do it right the 1st time... but I know I'm going to make some mistakes, especially on my 1st turbo engine
But switching a B16A to a B18C - could I just boost the B16A first, then swap blocks down the road? Will the turbo manifold clear the oilpan?
I want to do it right the 1st time... but I know I'm going to make some mistakes, especially on my 1st turbo engine
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Find a good tuner in your area and see what he/she recommends.

