genop

Ok, I almost have everything I need for my custom kit. I have been collecting little by little for about a year now. This is all going on a 97' civic lx 4dr. Let me know if there is something else I should buy.

450cc DSM injectors
S-AFC fuel computer (for afc hack)
255lph intank fuel pump
Custom T3 turbo (internal wastegate)
modified greddy manifold
ARP head studs (someone said they dont fit the d16y series someone clarify)
OEM head gasket
Crower rods (will these go on stock pistons or do I have to buy new ones?)
nuformz block guard
All oil lines and fittings
blitz turbo timer
greddy profec b boost controller
autometer boost gauge, oil pressure gauge, air/fuel gauge
VDO voltage gauge
autometer daul gauge pod and dual gauge bezel
AEM pully set
AEM cam gear
Apexi blow off valve

working on getting intercooler and custom piping and downpipe.
wanted to do the DYI lambda meter but I cant get in touch with the guy who sells the boards......

one more question
I need to get new rod bearings. I droped the oil pan and determined that I need the green bearings....but I am installing crower rods, so is that what I really need? either way I need some part #'s so I can order the biatches. Also, is the dealer the cheapest place to get them?

Thanks for reading all of this, but I have spent alot of money and dont want to mess it up here at the end.

Mike

genop

can someone atleast post and tell me that I dont need anything else, just so I can sleep well.......

ion_four

Chill, chill...
You didn't say what you're trying to do. You're probably good for high 13's, if you get forged pistons. The dealer is never the cheapest place to get things...though, I can't tell you where to get the bearings, otherwise.
Here's a DIY AF gauge, not any worse than the Autometer. You can get the chips for free from a link on this site http://www.pl510.com/DIY%20Air%20-%2...io%20Meter.htm
but, I think his instructions kinda suck ( I don't think the schematic is correct) and this other site is better, simpler in my opinion.
http://www.calgary-web.com/cip/ShelbyGauge.html


I'd say ditch the pulleys though, I've heard bad things about lightened pulleys and they only give a couple horses, which isn't a big deal, since turbocharging will greatly overshadow it.
Also, you might want an EGT gauge...there are some plans to build one on http://www.autospeed.com.



[Modified by ion_four, 3:01 AM 6/15/2002]

genop

thanx for the help, just to clarify...I want to run about 8psi daily, maybe 12psi track....what do you think?

MarsGodofWar

http://www.diy-wb.com

don't buy from the guy in australia.

shadowdawn

t3/t04b would be a nice turbo for your SOHC engine...... that or a straight T3

racerxadam

since you have waited this long i would suggest waiting to get pistons and rings to install with your new rods. Out of all the stories of blown FI motors it seems that pistons or rings make up a large majority of the failures, and you really don't want to have to do that job twice. just do it right the first time

qwkteg125

you need a resistor box to use those 450's. and stock pistons won't work with aftermarket rods unless you convert them to accept free-floating wristpins.

genop

I got the resistor box already. I guess I will wait for the pistons, I dont want to skimp on anything.

also, someone said that the ARP head studs for the d16 motors dont fit the d16y series. I need to know if this is true or not so I dont waste my time trying to install them.


[Modified by genop, 11:44 AM 6/15/2002]

turbopanda

If you're running a D16Y, why not consider my hybrid rod/piston package.. cheaper than a set of forged pistons/rods good for max of 1.3 bar of boost

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=207562